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Anybody replace there in tank fuel line?

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  #151  
Old 05-20-2015, 11:26 PM
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What's the torque spec on the quick connect? Couldn't find it in the manual.
 
  #152  
Old 05-28-2015, 10:19 AM
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2010 wide glide is leaking from the quick disconnect on the left side of the tank. When I disconnect the fuel hose it quits leaking. That should be the quick disconnect right.
Also the ignition is off.
 
  #153  
Old 05-28-2015, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fireman64
2010 wide glide is leaking from the quick disconnect on the left side of the tank. When I disconnect the fuel hose it quits leaking. That should be the quick disconnect right.
Also the ignition is off.
Replace the o-ring on the fuel line. That should do it.
 
  #154  
Old 05-28-2015, 11:25 AM
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Thanks, I thot it looked like one should be there.. That's good news.
 
  #155  
Old 05-29-2015, 09:13 AM
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Did you use the fuel tool mc 400 kit or make your own tools to do it?
 
  #156  
Old 05-30-2015, 05:17 PM
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Big thanks to this thread. I just ordered the Gates fuel line (a little hard to find North of the border) so I can fix my own pinhole leak. Luckily I found it while changing my fuel filter, before it caused me a problem!
 
  #157  
Old 05-30-2015, 07:27 PM
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subscribed.

gonna start collecting all the parts needed, most likely will not make the repair until the end of riding season.
 

Last edited by allsop; 05-30-2015 at 09:24 PM.
  #158  
Old 02-23-2016, 05:08 AM
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Did my fuel filter, sock, O-rings, fuel lines.
Be prepared to get frustrated, what a PIA!
Getting that fuel pump out is only half the problem.
Changing the fuel lines required removing the check valve assembly on the bottom.
When installing the check valve and line attached you don't have much room getting through the threaded area. The hose is big and doesn't leave much room for a clamp.
I originally crimped the line but even with that couldn't fit it in the hole.
I ended up cutting the crimped end off and using another new length of line and used a spring self tightening clamp and ground most of the ears off to fit.
I crimped both ends on the short line from the pump to the filter as I think that would be permanent. Hope so anyway.
I double, triple checked for line contact and it looks good especially around the fuel gauge stem that passes through the tank. I had cut that line just a tad shorter than what was there so as not to extend too much.
Had to repair the little purple wire connection that connects to the regulator, with the fight to get the pump back in had to take it back out.
Why it has a second connector to plastic? Must just be there for easy access to check regulator feed without having to remove the assembly.
By he time I had in in and out a few times I got the act right but I'm sure I will forget by the time I go back in.
Looking back if I did it again I would just change the smaller hose and leave the lower one alone. Much easier of a job. I think the smaller hose has more of a rub risk.
I did change the check valve o-ring too.
Another project another quality tool, getting a few of them this year.
I will crimp the crossover line too. Quick connect is too expensive and risk leaks on the road.
Now on the the next winter project.
 
  #159  
Old 02-23-2016, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by stilup
Did my fuel filter, sock, O-rings, fuel lines.
Be prepared to get frustrated, what a PIA!
Getting that fuel pump out is only half the problem.
Changing the fuel lines required removing the check valve assembly on the bottom.
When installing the check valve and line attached you don't have much room getting through the threaded area. The hose is big and doesn't leave much room for a clamp.
I originally crimped the line but even with that couldn't fit it in the hole.
I ended up cutting the crimped end off and using another new length of line and used a spring self tightening clamp and ground most of the ears off to fit.
I crimped both ends on the short line from the pump to the filter as I think that would be permanent. Hope so anyway.
I double, triple checked for line contact and it looks good especially around the fuel gauge stem that passes through the tank. I had cut that line just a tad shorter than what was there so as not to extend too much.
Had to repair the little purple wire connection that connects to the regulator, with the fight to get the pump back in had to take it back out.
Why it has a second connector to plastic? Must just be there for easy access to check regulator feed without having to remove the assembly.
By he time I had in in and out a few times I got the act right but I'm sure I will forget by the time I go back in.
Looking back if I did it again I would just change the smaller hose and leave the lower one alone. Much easier of a job. I think the smaller hose has more of a rub risk.
I did change the check valve o-ring too.
Another project another quality tool, getting a few of them this year.
I will crimp the crossover line too. Quick connect is too expensive and risk leaks on the road.
Now on the the next winter project.
I guess I didn't mention about clipping off the clamp tabs to get it through the tank output threaded hole, sorry.

Originally Posted by WS6 Formula


 
  #160  
Old 02-23-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by stilup
Did my fuel filter, sock, O-rings, fuel lines.
Be prepared to get frustrated, what a PIA!
Getting that fuel pump out is only half the problem.
Changing the fuel lines required removing the check valve assembly on the bottom.
When installing the check valve and line attached you don't have much room getting through the threaded area. The hose is big and doesn't leave much room for a clamp.
I originally crimped the line but even with that couldn't fit it in the hole.
I ended up cutting the crimped end off and using another new length of line and used a spring self tightening clamp and ground most of the ears off to fit.
I crimped both ends on the short line from the pump to the filter as I think that would be permanent. Hope so anyway.
I double, triple checked for line contact and it looks good especially around the fuel gauge stem that passes through the tank. I had cut that line just a tad shorter than what was there so as not to extend too much.
Had to repair the little purple wire connection that connects to the regulator, with the fight to get the pump back in had to take it back out.
Why it has a second connector to plastic? Must just be there for easy access to check regulator feed without having to remove the assembly.
By he time I had in in and out a few times I got the act right but I'm sure I will forget by the time I go back in.
Looking back if I did it again I would just change the smaller hose and leave the lower one alone. Much easier of a job. I think the smaller hose has more of a rub risk.
I did change the check valve o-ring too.
Another project another quality tool, getting a few of them this year.
I will crimp the crossover line too. Quick connect is too expensive and risk leaks on the road.
Now on the the next winter project.
Your next spring project will be replacing the clamp on the lower hose. I originally did that same thing a couple years ago and made it to the end of the driveway before it blew off. The high pressure is too much for that clamp to stay on. I got a screw tight type stainless steel clamp and slipped it on from the inside. There's just enough room on the bottom of the tank to get a socket screwdriver down there to tighten it up. Hasn't failed in 30k miles.
 


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