I am currently upgrading my 07 street bob and i am going to go to a 103" buy SE heads for it...Getting the SE forged piston 10.5:1 compression, and cams (not decided on cams yet but i believe im going to go 260. SE has two diffrent heads i can choose from and i dont know what one to buy

SCREAMIN’ EAGLE® PRO MAXIMUM VELOCITY
AREA (MVA) CYLINDER HEADS – CNC PORTED

OR

SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM 103+
CYLINDER HEADS

If anyone can help that would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

These are the descriptions for each head if it helps....

A. SCREAMIN’ EAGLE® PRO MAXIMUM VELOCITY
AREA (MVA) CYLINDER HEADS – CNC PORTED
The most advanced Twin Cam performance cylinder head
design available. Screamin’ Eagle® CNC Ported Maximum
Velocity Area (MVA) cylinder heads create power across
the entire RPM range by maximizing velocity through the
intake ports. Increased air speed velocity through the ports
is achieved by “right sizing” port volume at 98cc, lowering
the port roof, and by precision machining the shape
of the port to complement the giant 2.125" intake valves.
Screamin’ Eagle CNC-Ported MVA Cylinder Heads conquer
a unique engineering challenge, and provide the highest
possible torque and acceleration at any RPM. MVA Heads
will boost the punch of a 103" engine. When paired with
high lift cams, MVA Heads can give a 110" or 113" motor
everything it needs to achieve new levels of performance.
Countless hours of dyno testing resulted in a 95cc combustion
chamber that performs in perfect balance with the port
size and shape, and reduced detonation. MVA Heads feature
Screamin’ Eagle Race Springs that permit the use of high lift
cams (up to .650"), and are machined to accept automatic
compression releases (sold separately) for easier starting



SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM 103+
CYLINDER HEADS
These heads have been updated with ’06-style intake flange
geometry, and will accommodate the Screamin’ Eagle Pro
50mm EFI Induction Module. This Screamin’ Eagle cylinder
head is designed to increase performance on engines
displacing 103 cubic inches or more. The intake and exhaust
ports have been resized and reshaped to handle the additional
airflow from a 103 C.I. engine. When combined with
the 103+ Stroker Piston, the engine produces a compression
ratio of 10.5:1, with a combustion chamber volume of
98cc’s. The combustion chamber design provides a clean
and consistent burn for large displacement engines. Valve
springs can accommodate cams with .650" lift and revs
up to 7000 RPM. Intake valve has been increased to 2.080"
dia. Exhaust valve is 1.623". 103+ cylinder heads must be
used with Big Bore Cylinders (3-7/8" or larger). Heads are
machined to accept Mechanical Compression Release
P/N 32076-04. All EFI models require ECM calibration

 

I guess it depends on what you expect for performance and/or mileage/ride-ability.

 

This question might get a better response here in the Engine/fuel/exhaust section. If you are trying to stay under warranty, the SE heads might be the only way to go. If you arent concerned with warranties, your stock heads can be worked over and in most cases end up better and cheeper than SE heads....Just a thought.

Good luck with the build! Let us know how it turns out!

 

Have some heads for yer bike sent to a head porter like R&R cycles or Hillside cycles and have them done. Will be a much better set of heads.

 

So you think paying 700 or so to get my stock heads completely worked over will produce more than buying new SE heads (either ones)??

 

Go with Zippers 1.900 CNC ported heads or send yours to Larrys Hot Rods and Harleys in Levittown Pa. I'd go with the 251 cams for more ridability. You might make more power but it may more the power band that you have to keep up and downshift when riding around town. 251's seem a little friendlier. Just my opinion

 

You still need to answer the question to yourself, as to what type of riding will you be doing most of the time, and how much do you care about fuel mileage.

If the bike is under warranty, I would stick to HD-SE stuff, and let the dealer do the work. Otherwise when your weak bottom end craps out, I would bet dollars to donuts HD won't warranty it.

 

Redrubicon, it's not an issue of warranty. I recently spoke to my local dealer and asked about cam swap cost. I then inquired about warranty. The gentleman said "oh yeah it's going to affect warranty. Even if we put in SE cams". Doesn't make sense if HD is installing HD parts why it would affect warranty but that's what he said. I wasn't in the mood to argue. I simply wanted an overall cost for a cam swap.

 

What was the cost of a cam swap, btw?