Thanks TrickyH! I kinda figured it out as I started to tighten the bolts. It just seemed impossible to fill those gaps without ripping the fender! Nice modification, but it doesn't look right without the lowered shocks. On with the sickness of modifications and money!

 

Looking for take off Fat Bob Fender strut covers if any of you "converts" are looking to get rid of them. PM me if you have a set you're willing to part with.

 

Yea I used a stack of fender washers on each side, in addition to the OEM spacers. Then dropped several coats of gloss black rustoleum on top of them.

This thread was incredibly helpful in preparation of the swap. Many thanks to all who contributed.

Here's my finished Fat Glide...

 

I got a vivid black wideglide rear fender off a '12 if anyone is looking to do this swap. PM me

 

I am willing to part with mine however, I'm not sure I have the capabilities to pm you!

 

Because you're new? When you get PM privileges, PM me, I'm not in any hurry.

 

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I just got a 2010 Fat Bob and want to do this conversion...

My question is whether or not this fender...

60519-10DH RF,DOM,FXDWG,VIVID BLACK Retail Price:$215.00

...is pure vivid black (I know it has no pinstripes, just want to make sure there weren't flames on the fender or anything).

Thanks to anyone who can help and everyone who made this post a great and insightful read!

 

6liter,

Here's a portion of someone else's post of notes on this subject. It helped me a lot during my swap. You'll need many more spacers per side than just one.

The part number you have I think is correct. The w/ps is with pinstripe.

Oh yea, don't mess with the HD rubber conduit. I just used 3m wire tie bases with 3m foam tape and ran the wiring on the sides above the nut brackets with wire ties. Cheap purchase at any big-box hardware store.

Your part number for the correct fender is on the very bottom. I mail-ordered mine from Kutter or New Castle HD, or Surdyke HD (don't remember....). Price those three for the cheapest price. All excellent service!

Hope this helps. The work is well worth the finished product!

Tim

I did the FXDWG fender switch on my Fat Bob and have seen a lot of others on the forums that have done it as well. I love the way it looks, but it's not as easy or cheap to do as you might think. Here's some things that you need to know ...

1. The fender is pretty much a bolt on swap - except you need spacers to go between the fender and strut. I used chrome washers. 3 on the front bolts and 2 on the rear

2. Paint ... You can't get the FXDF fender in any color that matches the FXDF except gloss black. So, if your bike isn't gloss black, you have new paint or powder coat in your future. I powder coated my tins.

3. If you keep the stock shocks, only the FXDWG strut covers work (and they are only available in black, not chrome). If you swap shocks, you might be able to use covers from a Super Glide or older Street Bob. I don't use strut covers but wish I could get chrome ones that fit w the stock shocks. No strut covers means the turn signal standoffs don't work - I used chrome spacers.

4. While the fender is easy, the electrical requires some work: You need to extend the turn signal wires and figure out a way to connect them to power as you lose the little circuit board at the back of the FXDF fender. This means you need to do some custom wiring.

5. You also need to figure out what to do for a brake light - I used the HD under fender LED brake light and don't feel it's enough. I'd recommend a run/stop/turn module, too. More wiring.

6. You need a license plate mount (side mount, if you use the under fender brake light) and a license plate light, if your state requires one. More wiring. You can see the cutom bracket I had made just over my exhaust. I used a Figure Machine LED plate frame and backing plate. Used a $5 waterproof switch from eBay that sticks to the underside of the strut so I can turn the plate light on and off ... its wired to plug into the battery tender connector.

7. With the new wiring that needs to connect to the old wiring connectors, I HIGHLY recommend a AMP TYCO crimper like this one on eBay. Soldering the pins is real pain and "crimping" with regular or needle nose pliers just doesn't work.

8. You need to be careful about running wires from back to front as you lose the wiring conduit that is stuck to the underside of the FXDF fender.


60519-10 Rear Fender, primed
59459-10 Left Fender Support, Black
59461-10 Right Fender Support, Black
60936-10 Inner Bracket x2
11896 Spacer x2

Anyone know if: 60519-10BJM RR,DOM,VIVID BLACK W/PS
would be a direct replacement for a vivid black FB? not sure what the "W/PS" means....
I also found: 60519-10DH RF,DOM,FXDWG,VIVID BLACK
the normal 60519-10 is primed, these (I assume) are painted...that is all I was looking for.

 

I confirmed the part number for gloss black Wide Glide fender with NO pinstripe.

60519-10DH.

 

gents,


gents,i am collecting the parts for this modification , now is there a seller on Ebay how has covers, its looks like the one i have to need.
he don't know the parts numbers. but what do you think, can i use those?
The are in chrome, but the will be black powder coating

eBay item 261667405653

hope someone can help me, the price is nice, here in holland the are expenser

with regards
ron