2007 FXDC Super Glide - Wheel Removal/Installation
#1
12-04-2009, 05:10 PM
2007 FXDC Super Glide - Wheel Removal/Installation
This week I removed my wheels so I could take them in to the local Harley dealer and have new tires, tubes and rim bands installed and to have the wheels balanced. I saved $100 for the two tires by buying them from DennisKirk.com and another 1.5 hours of labor by taking the wheels off by myself. I also put on new brake pads front and rear (Lyndal Z Plus) as the original brake pads had 18,500 miles on them. I am experienced with tools and working on cars, but I have not worked on motorcycles very much. This was the first time I have taken the wheels off of my 2007 FXDC and I can tell you that my Service Manual and the tips/info I searched for and found on this forum, helped a lot.
Just a few things I encountered that may help others.
1. Someone posted a tip somewhere on this forum about putting paint stir sticks between the brake pads when the wheels where removed to prevent the brake pistons from extending should you accidentally apply the brakes. This really made me feel better as I didn't have to worry. As it turned out, I did not accidentally apply the brakes. But I felt good about not worrying about accidentally extending the brake caliper pistons too far.
2. When I was putting the rear wheel back on, for about 45 minutes I did the 3-Stooges routine of put the left spacer in place, put the right spacer and rear brake caliber in place, whack the axle with my 3 lb. hand sledge, and watch as the axle went in and the left spacer fell out. Duh - I finally solved the problem by putting the knurled end of a 3/8" ratchet handle into the left side through the left spacer and into the wheel. This way, the left spacer did not fall out after I whacked the axle from the right side. When the axle got started into the wheel from the right side, I just held the left spacer in place with my hand, and when the axle came through, I just pushed out the kurled ratchet handle.
3. With the rear wheel off, it is a snap to replace the brake pads. You can take out the brake pad retaining pins all the way and they are easy to get back in as you can hold the caliper so as to be able to see everything and manipulate the brake pad retaining pins. This is not the case when you are changing the rear brake pads with the wheel on. There is a different process for this which is outlined in the HD service manual.
4. After reinstalling the front wheel and putting the front axle back in, you need to align the front axle by putting a 7/16" drill bit in the hole in the right side of the front axle, then lever the right fork leg against the 7/16" drill bit, and then tighten the piece of **** Axle Cap Screws to 10-14 foot pounds. (I used a large screwdriver between the right fork leg and the wheel hub to pull the fork leg against the 7/16" drill bit - it was easy.
However, the problem is with the piece of **** Axle Cap Screws. They are Harley-Davidson P/N 4042 (8M x 1.25 x 35) and they are soft, stainless steel, "button head" screws. They are loosened/tightened with a 5mm hex bit. While torquing these button head screws, I stripped both of them BEFORE reaching the 10-14 foot pounds torque setting. The internal hex part of these button head screws, where the 5mm hex bit goes, is not very substantial. My opinion is that "button head screws" should be outlawed. Fortunately, I was able to use an SAE hex bit to get them out as they were not in very tight.
I solved this problem by getting new axle cap bolts from Bolt Depot in North Weymouth, Massachusetts (www.boltdepot.com). I ordered stainless, socket head bolts from Bolt Depot and Bolt Depot's part number is 6437 and these are the same size/pitch/length (8M x 1.25 x 35) as the piece of **** Harley button head screws. When these socket head bolts arrived, they have a very substantial socket head, that takes a 6MM hex bit (not 5mm), and when I applied my torque wrench to them to put on the 10-14 ft. lbs. of torque, they torqued just find and are in perfect shape. I hate both button head screws and Torx screws with a passion. Every chance I get I replace button-head/Torx fasteners with socket head fasteners.
I have used Bolt Depot several times and they always have what I needed, answered the phone when I would call, and returned messages should all of their lines be busy. This week, I paid for UPS ground, and the bolts got to me overnight (Bolt Depot is in Mass. and I live in the People's Republic of NJ). I recommend Bolt Depot highly.
5. Both of my axles came out fine. Someone on this forum said that a hand sledge would be much better than a smaller hammer - they were right. I put lots of Permatex anti-seize on the axles when I reinstalled them, and I can tell you, anti-seize lubricant will get all over your hands and where it gets deep into the skin, it takes while to get it out. When you pound out the rear axle, I recommend using some sort of punch in the axle dimple on the end on the left side. Why? Because I whacked the axle with my 3 pound hand sledge and found that I had mashed about 1/3 of the little slot where the axle "C" retaining clip goes. I was able to repair it - but hey, why damage something you dont' have to.
6. I removed the rear brake caliper to put the new brake pads in and having the caliper off made it easier to position the rear wheel. However, before driving in the rear axle from the right side, I needed to position the brake caliper's axle mount and the right axle spacer against the rear wheel. Before putting the wheel in place, I mounted the rear caliper to the frame (there's a slot in the caliper that goes over a boss welded to the inside of the swingarm) and then began to push the wheel into place. When you get to where the rear brake rotor begins to contact between the brake pads, just push the caliper down on the rotor. You won't hurt anything. Just keep the wheel and the caliper vertical and aligned. The bottom of the brake pads would stay apart, but the top of the brake pads kept coming together. Using firm steady pressure, the wheel went into place and the brake rotor went between the brake pads like it was supposed to.
7. Putting the front wheel back on was a snap. Same issue with the brake pads coming together at the top - BUT, for the front wheel, I was moving only the brake caliper onto the wheel/rotor - on the rear wheel, it was moving both the heavy wheel and the brake caliper.
8. I used brake cleaner to completely clean the brake rotors. I had gotten anti-sieze lubricant on the rotors, but brake cleaner (Brakleen) cleaned it up just fine.
9. Rear wheel alignment: I marked around the axle bolt heads with a silver sharpie and also made alignment tools out of 2 pieces of coat hanger bent at 90 degrees. Worked fine.
10. Adjusting Belt Deflection: Like an idiot, I adjusted the final drive belt before I reinstalled the shocks. Duh. My only excuse was that it was now 11:30pm and I'd been at it for a while. I wondered why the belt was so loose. I had to back off the belt tension axle adjusters because I could not pull up the swingarm to mount the shock bottoms because I had made the belt too tight. After reinstalling the shocks, I adjusted the final drive belt tension using the Harley belt deflection measurement tool. After I had it adjusted, I used my fingers and could twist the belt to 45 degree angle but not more - which is a tip someone else here on the forum gave as to how you can tell when your belt is properly adjusted.
11. After reinstalling the new brake pads and reinstalling both wheels, it took a few pulls of the front brake lever and a few pushes with the foot on the rear brake pedal to get the brake pressure back to where it should be. This is normal when replacing brake pads (so says the Service Manual). Anyhow, the brakes are nice and firm.
12. I test rode the bike from 0 - 100 mph on the NJ Turnpike to verify that the wheel balancing and wheel alignments in the frame were okay. Bike was smooth and no vibration. I am gently applying the brakes until they wear-in.
13. By the way, I used my Sears Yellow Jack and the Harley Dyna Jack Adapters. After unsuccessfully trying to get the jack adapters on properly (ie. square to the jack lifting arms) for an hour by myself - I got my son to hold the bike vertical, and I was able to get the bike correctly jacked up in about 5 minutes. I used two straps, one over the transmission/primary and the other over the lower frame at the front to the bike. The bike was rock solid on the jack. By the way, it was another forum tip that I used to strap my bike down this way.
14. Regarding the Harley "Dyna Jack Adapters," is there someone on this forum, who has access to the proper tools, who could make "Dyna Jack Adapters" out of steel or fiberglass or something??? Hogrida you listening..?
To sum up, like anything else, I could re-do this entire process in about 1/3 the time the next time I have to do it. I saved about $200, learned a few things (including the value of this Forum), and got the satisfaction of doing the job myself and getting anti-seize lubricant ground into my fingers. If anything I've related above helps any other wheel removal first-timers, than I am glad to be able to help.
Richard
Just a few things I encountered that may help others.
1. Someone posted a tip somewhere on this forum about putting paint stir sticks between the brake pads when the wheels where removed to prevent the brake pistons from extending should you accidentally apply the brakes. This really made me feel better as I didn't have to worry. As it turned out, I did not accidentally apply the brakes. But I felt good about not worrying about accidentally extending the brake caliper pistons too far.
2. When I was putting the rear wheel back on, for about 45 minutes I did the 3-Stooges routine of put the left spacer in place, put the right spacer and rear brake caliber in place, whack the axle with my 3 lb. hand sledge, and watch as the axle went in and the left spacer fell out. Duh - I finally solved the problem by putting the knurled end of a 3/8" ratchet handle into the left side through the left spacer and into the wheel. This way, the left spacer did not fall out after I whacked the axle from the right side. When the axle got started into the wheel from the right side, I just held the left spacer in place with my hand, and when the axle came through, I just pushed out the kurled ratchet handle.
3. With the rear wheel off, it is a snap to replace the brake pads. You can take out the brake pad retaining pins all the way and they are easy to get back in as you can hold the caliper so as to be able to see everything and manipulate the brake pad retaining pins. This is not the case when you are changing the rear brake pads with the wheel on. There is a different process for this which is outlined in the HD service manual.
4. After reinstalling the front wheel and putting the front axle back in, you need to align the front axle by putting a 7/16" drill bit in the hole in the right side of the front axle, then lever the right fork leg against the 7/16" drill bit, and then tighten the piece of **** Axle Cap Screws to 10-14 foot pounds. (I used a large screwdriver between the right fork leg and the wheel hub to pull the fork leg against the 7/16" drill bit - it was easy.
However, the problem is with the piece of **** Axle Cap Screws. They are Harley-Davidson P/N 4042 (8M x 1.25 x 35) and they are soft, stainless steel, "button head" screws. They are loosened/tightened with a 5mm hex bit. While torquing these button head screws, I stripped both of them BEFORE reaching the 10-14 foot pounds torque setting. The internal hex part of these button head screws, where the 5mm hex bit goes, is not very substantial. My opinion is that "button head screws" should be outlawed. Fortunately, I was able to use an SAE hex bit to get them out as they were not in very tight.
I solved this problem by getting new axle cap bolts from Bolt Depot in North Weymouth, Massachusetts (www.boltdepot.com). I ordered stainless, socket head bolts from Bolt Depot and Bolt Depot's part number is 6437 and these are the same size/pitch/length (8M x 1.25 x 35) as the piece of **** Harley button head screws. When these socket head bolts arrived, they have a very substantial socket head, that takes a 6MM hex bit (not 5mm), and when I applied my torque wrench to them to put on the 10-14 ft. lbs. of torque, they torqued just find and are in perfect shape. I hate both button head screws and Torx screws with a passion. Every chance I get I replace button-head/Torx fasteners with socket head fasteners.
I have used Bolt Depot several times and they always have what I needed, answered the phone when I would call, and returned messages should all of their lines be busy. This week, I paid for UPS ground, and the bolts got to me overnight (Bolt Depot is in Mass. and I live in the People's Republic of NJ). I recommend Bolt Depot highly.
5. Both of my axles came out fine. Someone on this forum said that a hand sledge would be much better than a smaller hammer - they were right. I put lots of Permatex anti-seize on the axles when I reinstalled them, and I can tell you, anti-seize lubricant will get all over your hands and where it gets deep into the skin, it takes while to get it out. When you pound out the rear axle, I recommend using some sort of punch in the axle dimple on the end on the left side. Why? Because I whacked the axle with my 3 pound hand sledge and found that I had mashed about 1/3 of the little slot where the axle "C" retaining clip goes. I was able to repair it - but hey, why damage something you dont' have to.
6. I removed the rear brake caliper to put the new brake pads in and having the caliper off made it easier to position the rear wheel. However, before driving in the rear axle from the right side, I needed to position the brake caliper's axle mount and the right axle spacer against the rear wheel. Before putting the wheel in place, I mounted the rear caliper to the frame (there's a slot in the caliper that goes over a boss welded to the inside of the swingarm) and then began to push the wheel into place. When you get to where the rear brake rotor begins to contact between the brake pads, just push the caliper down on the rotor. You won't hurt anything. Just keep the wheel and the caliper vertical and aligned. The bottom of the brake pads would stay apart, but the top of the brake pads kept coming together. Using firm steady pressure, the wheel went into place and the brake rotor went between the brake pads like it was supposed to.
7. Putting the front wheel back on was a snap. Same issue with the brake pads coming together at the top - BUT, for the front wheel, I was moving only the brake caliper onto the wheel/rotor - on the rear wheel, it was moving both the heavy wheel and the brake caliper.
8. I used brake cleaner to completely clean the brake rotors. I had gotten anti-sieze lubricant on the rotors, but brake cleaner (Brakleen) cleaned it up just fine.
9. Rear wheel alignment: I marked around the axle bolt heads with a silver sharpie and also made alignment tools out of 2 pieces of coat hanger bent at 90 degrees. Worked fine.
10. Adjusting Belt Deflection: Like an idiot, I adjusted the final drive belt before I reinstalled the shocks. Duh. My only excuse was that it was now 11:30pm and I'd been at it for a while. I wondered why the belt was so loose. I had to back off the belt tension axle adjusters because I could not pull up the swingarm to mount the shock bottoms because I had made the belt too tight. After reinstalling the shocks, I adjusted the final drive belt tension using the Harley belt deflection measurement tool. After I had it adjusted, I used my fingers and could twist the belt to 45 degree angle but not more - which is a tip someone else here on the forum gave as to how you can tell when your belt is properly adjusted.
11. After reinstalling the new brake pads and reinstalling both wheels, it took a few pulls of the front brake lever and a few pushes with the foot on the rear brake pedal to get the brake pressure back to where it should be. This is normal when replacing brake pads (so says the Service Manual). Anyhow, the brakes are nice and firm.
12. I test rode the bike from 0 - 100 mph on the NJ Turnpike to verify that the wheel balancing and wheel alignments in the frame were okay. Bike was smooth and no vibration. I am gently applying the brakes until they wear-in.
13. By the way, I used my Sears Yellow Jack and the Harley Dyna Jack Adapters. After unsuccessfully trying to get the jack adapters on properly (ie. square to the jack lifting arms) for an hour by myself - I got my son to hold the bike vertical, and I was able to get the bike correctly jacked up in about 5 minutes. I used two straps, one over the transmission/primary and the other over the lower frame at the front to the bike. The bike was rock solid on the jack. By the way, it was another forum tip that I used to strap my bike down this way.
14. Regarding the Harley "Dyna Jack Adapters," is there someone on this forum, who has access to the proper tools, who could make "Dyna Jack Adapters" out of steel or fiberglass or something??? Hogrida you listening..?
To sum up, like anything else, I could re-do this entire process in about 1/3 the time the next time I have to do it. I saved about $200, learned a few things (including the value of this Forum), and got the satisfaction of doing the job myself and getting anti-seize lubricant ground into my fingers. If anything I've related above helps any other wheel removal first-timers, than I am glad to be able to help.
Richard
Last edited by rdondes; 12-04-2009 at 05:42 PM. Reason: To correct misspellings...
#2
12-04-2009, 05:20 PM
Road Warrior
#3
12-04-2009, 05:57 PM
Fantastic write up.
One thing you might add is to make sure you dont cross thread the rear caliper slider pin if you have to remove the caliper. If you do cross it, the caliper will be slightly skewed and the brakes wont work worth a damn (and you'll be buying a caliper).
I think all of us share your dismay about the POS fasteners used. You did right by swapping them out.
One thing you might add is to make sure you dont cross thread the rear caliper slider pin if you have to remove the caliper. If you do cross it, the caliper will be slightly skewed and the brakes wont work worth a damn (and you'll be buying a caliper).
I think all of us share your dismay about the POS fasteners used. You did right by swapping them out.
#4
12-04-2009, 06:07 PM
Fantastic write up.
One thing you might add is to make sure you dont cross thread the rear caliper slider pin if you have to remove the caliper. If you do cross it, the caliper will be slightly skewed and the brakes wont work worth a damn (and you'll be buying a caliper).
I think all of us share your dismay about the POS fasteners used. You did right by swapping them out.
One thing you might add is to make sure you dont cross thread the rear caliper slider pin if you have to remove the caliper. If you do cross it, the caliper will be slightly skewed and the brakes wont work worth a damn (and you'll be buying a caliper).
I think all of us share your dismay about the POS fasteners used. You did right by swapping them out.
"Slider Pin?" What's that? The only hardware on the rear brake caliper that I saw were the 2 brake pad retaining pins. and I was VERY careful when screwing them back in again to ensure against cross-threading. On my motorcycle, the rear brake caliper is held onto the motorcycle at two points - one being the part that goes onto the axle (or that the axle goes through) and the other part is a slot that fits over a horizontal boss that is welded to the inside of the swingarm. Nothing else holds the caliper on. When you say "slider pin," are you referring to the brake pad retaining pins? I could see how if one were cross-threaded and as a result mis-aligned, there could be a problem.
#5
12-04-2009, 06:07 PM
Great write up. I just went through the same process - tires, wheels, brakes.
Another great tip I got from a forum member is to follow the axle threw the sprocket, spacers, wheel, and caliper with a 3/4 wooden dowel. Doing this everything stays in place when you are wrestling the wheel or caliper in place.
Nothing like getting it done yourself!
George
Another great tip I got from a forum member is to follow the axle threw the sprocket, spacers, wheel, and caliper with a 3/4 wooden dowel. Doing this everything stays in place when you are wrestling the wheel or caliper in place.
Nothing like getting it done yourself!
George
#6
12-04-2009, 06:12 PM
Great write up. I just went through the same process - tires, wheels, brakes.
Another great tip I got from a forum member is to follow the axle threw the sprocket, spacers, wheel, and caliper with a 3/4 wooden dowel. Doing this everything stays in place when you are wrestling the wheel or caliper in place.
Nothing like getting it done yourself!
George
Another great tip I got from a forum member is to follow the axle threw the sprocket, spacers, wheel, and caliper with a 3/4 wooden dowel. Doing this everything stays in place when you are wrestling the wheel or caliper in place.
Nothing like getting it done yourself!
George
Using a dowel through the sprocket, spacers, wheel, etc. would have helped me a ton! I was wrestling mightily with that brake caliper as it is somewhat of a dance to get the brake caliper mounted on the upper boss and then to position it against the swingarm while simultaneously aligning/holding the caliper-side spacer and wheel in place while also simultaneously shoving the brake caliper/pads over the brake rotor. Next time, I will get a wooden dowel to help me!
Richard...
#7
12-04-2009, 06:13 PM
"Slider Pin?" What's that? The only hardware on the rear brake caliper that I saw were the 2 brake pad retaining pins. and I was VERY careful when screwing them back in again to ensure against cross-threading. On my motorcycle, the rear brake caliper is held onto the motorcycle at two points - one being the part that goes onto the axle (or that the axle goes through) and the other part is a slot that fits over a horizontal boss that is welded to the inside of the swingarm. Nothing else holds the caliper on. When you say "slider pin," are you referring to the brake pad retaining pins? I could see how if one were cross-threaded and as a result mis-aligned, there could be a problem.
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