Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Changing to a 7/8 bar

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-17-2018, 12:13 PM
Bob_fxdb's Avatar
Bob_fxdb
Bob_fxdb is offline
Road Captain
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: .
Posts: 711
Received 143 Likes on 102 Posts
Default Changing to a 7/8 bar

I have now the biltwell murdock risers(1" clamp) and already got the shims for to clamp to take a 7/8" bar. I really want a known motocross brand bar like renthal or protaper, because they are proven to be strong and rigid. The problem is that I dont want the crossbar brace, and therefor I need to go up to 1-1/8" bar(only at the clamp, and then goes to 7/8" on the ends) to have a strong bar.

Because im cheap and dont want to spend my money on the 1-1/8" hardcase performance risers, I want to customize either the bar or the riser.

Should I just get a 7/8 bar and remove the crossbar brace or get a 1-1/8" bar and do some work to make the 1" clamp bigger? Any idea on how to do it in a accurate way?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 10-17-2018, 12:25 PM
F86's Avatar
F86
F86 is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Philly Suburbs
Posts: 2,840
Received 898 Likes on 599 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bob_fxdb
I have now the biltwell murdock risers(1" clamp) and already got the shims for to clamp to take a 7/8" bar. I really want a known motocross brand bar like renthal or protaper, because they are proven to be strong and rigid. The problem is that I dont want the crossbar brace, and therefor I need to go up to 1-1/8" bar(only at the clamp, and then goes to 7/8" on the ends) to have a strong bar.

Because im cheap and dont want to spend my money on the 1-1/8" hardcase performance risers, I want to customize either the bar or the riser.

Should I just get a 7/8 bar and remove the crossbar brace or get a 1-1/8" bar and do some work to make the 1" clamp bigger? Any idea on how to do it in a accurate way?

Thanks!
If your goal is to end up with a bar that's "proven to be strong and rigid" and is designed with a crossbar, I think cutting out the crossbar would directly work against your goal...
 
  #3  
Old 10-17-2018, 12:46 PM
Bob_fxdb's Avatar
Bob_fxdb
Bob_fxdb is offline
Road Captain
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: .
Posts: 711
Received 143 Likes on 102 Posts
Default

Yeah I know
 
  #4  
Old 10-17-2018, 12:47 PM
cggorman's Avatar
cggorman
cggorman is offline
Extreme HDF Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 11,448
Received 2,291 Likes on 1,710 Posts
Default

I have a hard time imagining a 7/8" bar being stiffer than a 1" bar with equal tube wall thickness.

Is this for stunting?
You already have solid bushings?

Seems like there are quite a few bar makers using .120 DOM steel tube...
 

Last edited by cggorman; 10-17-2018 at 12:49 PM.
  #5  
Old 10-17-2018, 01:42 PM
Bob_fxdb's Avatar
Bob_fxdb
Bob_fxdb is offline
Road Captain
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: .
Posts: 711
Received 143 Likes on 102 Posts
Default

Yeah, already have solid bushings. Not 100% for stunting, wheelies now and then, but not hardcore stuff. Main reason is to use 7/8 parts like brake and clutch(that I already have) and smaller grips to have a more mx feel. Been riding the 1" grips for a while now and I dont have any problems with them, I just prefer 7/8" grips.

A lot of the new motocross bars have a 1-1/8" thickness where the clamp sits, and then tapered to 7/8" on the ends. I dont know which one are the stiffest, 1-1/8" - 7/8" or 1", but for sure stiff enough.

I just came across a German brand, LSL, that have 7/8" bars with 4 mm thick aluminium and they claim it is way over the TÜV standard, 60% better. Maybe I will try this brand. They also say it is safe to make holes for internal wiring.
 

Last edited by Bob_fxdb; 10-17-2018 at 01:44 PM.
  #6  
Old 10-17-2018, 01:45 PM
cggorman's Avatar
cggorman
cggorman is offline
Extreme HDF Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 11,448
Received 2,291 Likes on 1,710 Posts
Default

Gotcha.

Sounds like risers are your best option, then. Without a jig and mill, I don't think modifying a 1" set is a good idea. Just my opinion. A machine shop would be happy to give you quote, though.
 
  #7  
Old 10-17-2018, 01:53 PM
Bob_fxdb's Avatar
Bob_fxdb
Bob_fxdb is offline
Road Captain
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: .
Posts: 711
Received 143 Likes on 102 Posts
Default

I have access to a mill and jig, but how do I mill out a perfectly 1-1/8" throughout the clamp... Yeah I should ask a shop for a quote
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mark10
General Harley Davidson Chat
7
06-26-2009 01:22 PM
balley
Sportster Models
16
02-26-2007 01:33 AM



Quick Reply: Changing to a 7/8 bar



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:41 PM.