My Andrews 30t Pulley Install
#23
06-28-2010, 10:02 PM
Cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Oklahoma
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#25
06-28-2010, 10:16 PM
muderator
#26
06-28-2010, 10:27 PM
Road Master
Good
Eye
MUD, as usual
I think what the original poster meant was as I recall, I'd have to pull my manual out, it's probably torque big pulley nut to 35lbs and then you have to make scribe marks and add an additonal 45 degrees of torque to the nut, which comes out to be about 115lbs torque. The 100 inch pounds are for the two tiny bolts that hold the retainer around the big puelly nut.
I hope that was a typo on his part, because if he's only got 35 pounds on that pulley, he needs to park that scoot right now....
Eye
MUD, as usual
I think what the original poster meant was as I recall, I'd have to pull my manual out, it's probably torque big pulley nut to 35lbs and then you have to make scribe marks and add an additonal 45 degrees of torque to the nut, which comes out to be about 115lbs torque. The 100 inch pounds are for the two tiny bolts that hold the retainer around the big puelly nut.
I hope that was a typo on his part, because if he's only got 35 pounds on that pulley, he needs to park that scoot right now....
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SuperGlide_805 (03-09-2018)
#27
06-28-2010, 10:53 PM
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Location: Boerne Tx. (Gods Country!!)
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step 1-gotta remove battery box to acsess the starter bolts
step 2-remove the starter bolts, there is two
step 3-remove the 5 inner primary bolts, you will need new one's they are sealing bolts and cost 12.00 from harley
step 4-remove the inner primary
step 5-remove primary nut locking plate two bolts
step 6-install the pilot bushing for the socket
step 7-remove lower belt gaurd, then install the final drive sprocket tool....now that dagum nut, this thing is tight, so what are going to do is say to yourself it cannot be that tight, then break every 1/2 drive breaker bar, or ratchet and then have to figure on how to get off. I had to use a electric impact, this gun had 550 ft# of torque in reverse and didnt hardly budge it, I beat on it for 10 seconds at a time 6 times before it came loose. then it took another minute or two bumping it before it came all the way of. this is right handed.
step 8- change pulley, super easy just pull off and replace, my belt was fairly loose.
step 9-clean theads, pulley nut, locking plate, and locking plate bolts, then apply new red lock tight. apply a thin layer of oil to the pulley nut on the inside face, what meets the pulley torque big nut to 35 lb, back off and then re-torque to 35lb. then install plate and torque to 100 inch lb.
step 10- adjust belt, take the right and left axle loose and the the then adjust the two allen heads on back of swing arm, do them evenly. it took me 2.75 turns to get it set, this would be a good time to aling you bike.
step 2-remove the starter bolts, there is two
step 3-remove the 5 inner primary bolts, you will need new one's they are sealing bolts and cost 12.00 from harley
step 4-remove the inner primary
step 5-remove primary nut locking plate two bolts
step 6-install the pilot bushing for the socket
step 7-remove lower belt gaurd, then install the final drive sprocket tool....now that dagum nut, this thing is tight, so what are going to do is say to yourself it cannot be that tight, then break every 1/2 drive breaker bar, or ratchet and then have to figure on how to get off. I had to use a electric impact, this gun had 550 ft# of torque in reverse and didnt hardly budge it, I beat on it for 10 seconds at a time 6 times before it came loose. then it took another minute or two bumping it before it came all the way of. this is right handed.
step 8- change pulley, super easy just pull off and replace, my belt was fairly loose.
step 9-clean theads, pulley nut, locking plate, and locking plate bolts, then apply new red lock tight. apply a thin layer of oil to the pulley nut on the inside face, what meets the pulley torque big nut to 35 lb, back off and then re-torque to 35lb. then install plate and torque to 100 inch lb.
step 10- adjust belt, take the right and left axle loose and the the then adjust the two allen heads on back of swing arm, do them evenly. it took me 2.75 turns to get it set, this would be a good time to aling you bike.
First off I would like to say, great write up and pictures!
Just tonight, I was just helping a buddy of mine do a chain conversion on his machine, and at the same time doing the same conversion on mine.
Most of the procedures are the same as R&R'ing the stock setup or changing the transmission pulley or chain sprocket.
Our machines are 06 and 07 model Dynas and there are two extra steps on our procedures to your step 9.
Lubing and locktighting as you did....... but tightening the transmission sprocket nut initially to 100 ft lbs and then loosening it, then retightening it to 35 ft lbs, but here is the difference......tightening the transmission sprocket nut an additional (not more than 45 degrees) .......and that is a task in it's own.
Better have a big breaker bar!
I know you are riding an 09 model and I hope they didn't make a mistake on one of our manuals (it HAS happened before)........ but I can't imagine that big transmission sprocket nut FINAL torque to (only be) 35 ft lbs on any year H/D.
Please correct me if I am mistaken so I can research and "correct" my installation before putting it all back together!!!
Ride safe.
Txrarebear
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SuperGlide_805 (03-09-2018)
#28
06-28-2010, 11:05 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
#30
06-29-2010, 07:05 AM
well i just re read my manual, it definitly says 35 then 35 the 35 to 45 degree, but there is no way that 35 to 45 degree will put you around a 100 ft lbs. i mean that is only a 1/8 of a turn. i did however mis read it and it is only torqued at 35, i thought it said you could go an additional 35 if the keeper didnt line up. i have done over 400 miles since install with no problems. as far as i can tell it will tighten up with time also because of momentum. you are locking the nut to the pulleyes but the transmission shaft is turn'n in a tighting fashon, i think thats why they are so so dagum tight.