You may have to replace the cables and brake line. Those bars are wider than your current setup, and that takes some slack out of the lines. I tried a few different setups, running longer risers, then eventually settled on what you are going with, 12.5" wild one chubby apes internally wired on stock sized risers. You don't need any different risers (not that you can change them anyway on your year bob) because the chubby apes are necked down at the riser and on the ends to take a stock setup.
I was able to get the wild one bars on with the stock cables and line, but just barely. I ended up replacing cables later as I found good deals at Jireh Cycles. You can get pro motion throttle and idle cables (black) there for 11 bucks each. They also have pro motion Clutch cables for about 19 bucks. Then I bought a Russel brake line from them for around 39 bucks. You can make it work with stock cables, but it is tight and doesn't allow you to tilt the bars very far forward. Here is what I ordered from Jireh:
49-227 Russell 52" Brake line (comes with washers) $39
48-664 Pro Motion 72" Clutch Cable $19
48-752 Pro Motion 39.5" Throttle Cable $11
48-753 Pro Motion 39.5" Idle Cable $11

You could probably go with 34.5" Throttle and Idle cables, but I wasn't sure so I went with the 39.5"
I would order both and return the ones you don't use. Part number for the 34.5" is:
48-754 and 48-755

All cables are black and look OEM, except the Russell brake line that is a subdued stainless. It is a really nice brake line, I didn't want to skimp on that one. Good luck, and let me know if you need any more info. I also went with a Novelo wiring extension kit, I think 4". Do the work yourself and you will save about 8 hours of labor at probably $90 an hour.

Stock Street bob cables are:
Throttle/Idle 32.5"
Clutch Cable 68.69"
Brake line about 47"

 

If you look at your stock bars, they barely clear the big hex nuts at the top of your front forks. For certain bars, particular ones that are one inch at the riser/controls and 1 1/4 or more for other part of the bar, they may not clear. Some have played with the triple tree adjustment but the safest and easiest is to add the 1" riser.

 

Thanks for all the helpful info. I think I will be replacing the lines since I kinda like the look of the 1" risers and also understand the issues I may have if I don't use them..

 

Makes sense to me. I kinda was thinking about that seeing how close the bars are to the top of the forks. Plus, I really like how those risers look (better than "real" risers actually). Thanks for the suggestion..

 

I have 12 inch apes on my 08 with stock cables I am going to put 14 inch apes on this winter and may have to replace the throttle cables and clutch cable but the brake line was replaced by the previous owner and is more than long enough for the 14's

 

I would definitely move up a 1/2" on the risers just to give you a little more room to adjust if you need to later. I ended up dropping my front just less than an inch after I lowered the rear. Felt much better. Replacing those risers is no big deal once you have the bars off.

 

I really like how apes look just bolted in the newer integrated mount upper triple or with the smallest riser possible on the old bushing style upper triple. It just looks clean. RSD makes a beautiful riser and Biltwell does also. Biltwells are smaller and look more traditional and are cheaper.

 

Are you talking about riser extensions for the integrated trees? Or standard risers earlier models? I want to bolt the bars directly to my stock integrated risers, but just worried about the fatter bars making contact (Wild 1 Chubbys)

 

Hey Deathproof- you don't need to replace ANY cables. I run '10 stock minis (12") on 2" risers from Loner Industries and all I did was slide the risers under my apes. Still PLENTY of slack in wiring and all cables. just my .02

 

I've got 13.5" apes on mine and used the stock cabling. It just barely fit and looks a little funny but it worked. 12.5" should look a little better. I had to bend some on the brake line and the throttle and idle cables. The bars are internally wired and there was plenty of electrical wiring. We wired it right by taking apart the connectors, running the wires through the bars then putting the connectors back on.

I just got the clutch cable replaced with a 72.69" Diamond Black LE cable 38975-10 one when the dealer was fixing a primary leak. He told me he would put it on for free if I bought it. They misquoted me at $35 instead of the regular price of $99 so I said go ahead and put it on. Afterwards they realized their mistake and tried to charge me $99 and I told them no. They corrected it back to what they said and I paid $35 for the cable and install was free.
Next up I want to replace the brake cable with a 3 inch longer braided black one to match the clutch cable. I'll more than likely get it from magnum cable which is the exact same cable that HD sells but cheaper of course.

here's a couple pics of the all stock cabling on the bike (before the clutch cable was replaced)