I bought a Harbor Freight Lift jack, looks strong, seems to work great. Only one problem, it's impossible to position it under my 07 street bob without one of the pads being under the oil pan since it comes down below the frame level. I am afraid it will crush the pan. I am in the process of constructing some 3/4" plywood strips to run parallel with the frame to keep the pads down from the pan. Anybody tried to just raise it with the lift on the pan?

 

You will need to get the lifter block kit from HD. It costs around $25. This will allow you to safely lift the bike and avoid damage to the oil pan. I have the same problem on my 07 Lowrider.

 

Sears Red Lift mod and it works on the Harbor Freight jack as well.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ification.html

I just used the OE bolts and I have had no problems using this way. My bike sat on the lift for 2 months with no problems and rolled it around without a worry. One of these days I am going to go with some 12mm x 120mm long bolts with some aluminum spacers between the pads, but I have had no problems and procrastinated. You could go with 1/2" x 5" but you have to drill out the existing holes, which is no big deal.
CB

 

I would seriously think about going with the 1/2" x 5" bolts

 

Thanks, if I had some time I might would go buy some bolts and mod the pads but if Harley sells the Lift block for $25 heck that's the route I'm going. I assume if I walk into the dealer and ask for the Lift Block to fit a lift jack they are going to know what I am talking about?

 

The bolt purchase is much cheaper than that lift adapters.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

 

I thought the same thing and I only assembled it that way to try it out to see if it worked. The HF has a bracket in the center of the lift pad so you can position the pad on either side of the lift arms and as you can see, it holds and positions the bolt just fine. 7 months later it is still working fine.
CB

I used the blocks for a long time and even defended them when others said they sucked, that was until I modified my jack. They make it hard to position the jack under the bike and if you do not get them positioned correctly they can twist and move which can cause the bike to fall over. Sometimes the plastic pad separates from the rubber because they only use a double sided tape to hold them together and the bike can fall over. Even when positioned correctly the bike is unstable. Be careful using them!
Buy the adapters and then you will mod your jack for sure. You can then take two of the adapters and separate the plastic pad from them and use those on the front to position the bike better and clear the clutch cable on the modded jack.
CB

 

[cbz1200n wrote...<cut>..... Be careful using them! ]
Wow thanks for the additional reply dude, I am definitely going to take the time to mod the jack now. Drill out the holes and use 1/2" bolts. I'm thinking I ought to weld the cross brace back with a gusset piece, although in the video I did not notice that being done.
So I'm thinking I don't need to buy the blocks just use some wood spacers on the front to clear the clutch cable on the modded jack. What is your input on that?
Oh and buy the way I don't see a definitive end to the oil temp plug issue, is that something worth buying yet or does anyone have a final opinion on it?

 

Personally, I haven't found a reason to weld the cross bar back in. I've left my bike lifted for two weeks and found no issue with grade 8 bolts bending.

If you'd feel safer doing that, go for it.

If you were going to be lifting baggers I might suggest your idea but our dynas weigh ~650lbs or so. About half as much as a full dressed bagger.

As far as your oil temp plug question...I may have missed it. What's up?

 

If you have the same HF lift I have there is no cross brace to remove, only on the Sears Red Lift. Does yours look like the one I posted? Guess I should have asked in the first place.
CB