03 Wide Glide cam swap and big bore build how to with pics...
#1
03 Wide Glide cam swap and big bore build how to with pics...
Ok guys, the build was finished yesterday afternoon. It took us a bit longer than anticipated as we were waiting for the owner of the bike to arrive so he could help and learn what to do.
Tear down.
Remove seat
Remove dash
Remove exhaust
Drain and remove gas tank. We use vice grips on either side of the cross over and a long piece of fule line to fun into the gas can to drain it.
Remove cam cover
Remove outer cam gears with the Georges garage locking tool seen in the pic above.
On older models (up to 05) check tensioner shoes for wear. This bike has 14K miles on it and had more wear than I expected.
Remove cam plate and oil pump bolts. DO NOT REMOVE CAM PLATE YET! Remove push rod clips.
Remove rocker box cover bolts and remove rocker box covers.
Remove breathers and rockers
Remove lower rocker boxes.
Remove throttle cables
Remove lower motor mount, carb, and intake manifold
Remove push rods and pushrod tubes
Remove heads
Loosen 3 bolts at the bottom of the cylinders
Remove cylinders
Remove cam plate and lifter blocks
Remove oil pump
That is all I have time for now. I may have forgotten a few things, if so I apologize in advance. But, that gives you a general idea of tear down.
Drew
Tear down.
Remove seat
Remove dash
Remove exhaust
Drain and remove gas tank. We use vice grips on either side of the cross over and a long piece of fule line to fun into the gas can to drain it.
Remove cam cover
Remove outer cam gears with the Georges garage locking tool seen in the pic above.
On older models (up to 05) check tensioner shoes for wear. This bike has 14K miles on it and had more wear than I expected.
Remove cam plate and oil pump bolts. DO NOT REMOVE CAM PLATE YET! Remove push rod clips.
Remove rocker box cover bolts and remove rocker box covers.
Remove breathers and rockers
Remove lower rocker boxes.
Remove throttle cables
Remove lower motor mount, carb, and intake manifold
Remove push rods and pushrod tubes
Remove heads
Loosen 3 bolts at the bottom of the cylinders
Remove cylinders
Remove cam plate and lifter blocks
Remove oil pump
That is all I have time for now. I may have forgotten a few things, if so I apologize in advance. But, that gives you a general idea of tear down.
Drew
#6
Join Date: Jan 2007
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#7
He has only had a chance to ride it home yesterday. I am sure he will be happy with it, but it will be a few weeks until it is completely broken in and ready for a beating. I'll keep you guys posted. All I can say is the D&D on this thing sounds like a beast! The carb makes this thing sound so much better than mine that I am extremely jealous.
Drew
Drew
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#8
This is probably a stupid question for the experienced but I'm going to humbly ask anyway.
The service manual says to find top dead center, to remove pressure cause by the push rods, before removing the rockers to avoid bending them. Did you guys do this or is it necessary?
Also it talks about even with new rings, pistons and jugs checking end gaps of rings, checking for roundness of the cylinder bores and pistons and honing/scoring the new cylinders....... ect. Is it necessary to do this or can the parts out of the box from Harley be trusted to be within specification. Or are there certain things to check?
Again sorry for the question.
The service manual says to find top dead center, to remove pressure cause by the push rods, before removing the rockers to avoid bending them. Did you guys do this or is it necessary?
Also it talks about even with new rings, pistons and jugs checking end gaps of rings, checking for roundness of the cylinder bores and pistons and honing/scoring the new cylinders....... ect. Is it necessary to do this or can the parts out of the box from Harley be trusted to be within specification. Or are there certain things to check?
Again sorry for the question.
#9
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
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tcob, there was an issue a few years back with the quality of HD big Bore kit barrels being too big or out of round. Those issues have since been corrected. Since everyone is on the internet now, and as we all know, what you hear and read on the internet is an indisputable fact (no matter how old the information is). The bottom line is, you really should mic the cylinders and check ring gap, no matter who cut the holes. You should also use torque plates when doing this. With the quality of HD parts now, there has been less than .0005 difference in measurements with and without press plates. Just make sure you match the pistons and rings to each cylinder, and mark the closer tolerances for use in the rear.
TDC isnt that critical in disassembly as it is on assembly. I'll guarantee you a bent pushrod or worse if you try to work too fast and you have a high lift cam and youre close to the max on the valve springs if you dont have it at TDC. If youre planning on using the EZ install pushrods and youre going to cut the old ones out, you damn well better have it at TDC or youre liable to have a pushrod fragment shot out at you like a bullet.
TDC isnt that critical in disassembly as it is on assembly. I'll guarantee you a bent pushrod or worse if you try to work too fast and you have a high lift cam and youre close to the max on the valve springs if you dont have it at TDC. If youre planning on using the EZ install pushrods and youre going to cut the old ones out, you damn well better have it at TDC or youre liable to have a pushrod fragment shot out at you like a bullet.
Last edited by kk6pg; 10-26-2010 at 02:25 AM.
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