(Update edit, see last post by me for how I fixed this, R_W_B)
I recently moved my front turn signals from handlebars to forks. Turn signals worked prior to this.

My right front turn signal is now not working. (left does, and both rear do)

I switched bulbs, right still does not work.

I popped right socket out, not enough slack to get it out far enough to see good but all 3 wires appear to still be hooked to socket.

I popped out bottom frame plastic insert and pulled the wiring harness back out. Located the right turn signal 3 wire cable and verified all colors going into the AMP match going out. So I then disconnected the AMP connector.

I put an ohm meter probe on each wire at a time, while putting the other probe on the bulb socket terminal. I get 10 ohms on the Blue and Violet, but nothing on the Black. Manual shows Blue as the running light.
( Just to be clear manual shows Brown and Black as other two, but mine has Violet on center wire of turn signal AMP male connectors instead of brown. )

So obviously I have a bad socket connection or a damaged black wire. I checked the wire it has a couple of creases but no separation of the insulation. Something has gotten stressed somewhere.
I'm gonna cut the wire at the signal bullet and then test the wire with the ohm meter, if the wire tests ok I guess I'm gonna have to buy a new signal assembly.
Anybody got any input on what might be wrong with the socket ?

 

Just my :


Before you cut the black wire my advice would be:

1. check for oxidation inside the turn signal socket;
2. connect the left turn signal plug to the outgoing plug at the main harness and check for response;
3. disconnect the turn signal wires from the main harness and use the probe to check for outgoing power at the main harness plug;
4. using the ohm meter check for power conduct on the black wire form turn signal harness from the plug to the socket.

To pull the socket you could use this turn signal socket assembly extraction tool :

You simply squeeze it, hook up the pins into the notches where the bulb fits in................




.
.........and pull out gently the socket assembly:

 

hook the ohm-meter back to your black wire, from the socket back to the pin terminal... spring loaded clips would be ideal for this if you have them... then wiggle the black wire at the places you say you have creased at. Also wiggle the socked assembly (if you can )... and the wire where it goes into the pin terminal.

The creases definitely indicate a pressure point and... most often tho, the wire breaks where it transitions into some 'hard and fixed' object, as that is where the motion is most likely to happen on the wire.

 

(By the way I can get the socket out, it's just that there isn't enough slack in the wire to let me pull it very far out. There is a rubber grommet going into the chrome bullet that doesn't let the wire slide. Guess maybe I need to work on the grommet some.

Anyhow...Thanks for the suggestion shown, as soon as I got in from work I did the above. You've got something there because now my left doesn't flash in the front just like the right was doing.
This seems to mean something has gone wrong in the right side delivery harness where my right turn signal AMP connector is connecting. (Although I still don't understand why the Black wire on the right signal cable isn't showing on an ohm test)
Now my problem is when I try to trace this right side delivery cable down it appears (it's getting dark in my garage) that it just goes up to the tank console ? Where does the front lights get their feed from the rear and battery ?

 

I guess the turn signal wire is vulcanised to the grommet. To get some slackyou could try to wet the grommet and pull it outside in the turn signal housing.

Not shure how it is for your year/model...could be the wires connect to the main harness under the tanks pannel. Perhaps someone who owns a 2007 model could chime in?!

 

.
.
no.

from the turn switch

the power goes into the Turn Signal Security Module

feeds out (violet) of the Turn Signal Security Module then

first splits into two w/ one branch going to rear

the other branch splits again into two w/ one going to idjit light

and the other to the actual Turn Signal Indicator

seems from what I read, your ground (black) is forked up
.
.
.

 

Yes I see exactly what you describe in the manual schematic but I did not see the physical cable from front to back. Does it go under the frame ?

And yes it does sound like a I ground issue but it's a bit confusing yet as to where to track it to. The left side and right rear work fine, the ground issue seems to be on part of the right side only. It appears to me that I have a break in the ground somewhere, since if I had a short I would be blowing fuses right ? (since the entire frame is also ground)
(and why my unhooked right signal bullet loop Black wire fails an ohm test is now separate confusing issue)

 

.
.
remove the suspect black from the equation

by

a simple jump wire to ground
.
.
.

 

Well I found how to get the original right signal bullet black wire to pass the ohms (continuity) test, there is only one small spot on the one side of the socket cylinder that the will conduct the ground connection. So I can rule that totally out of the equation (the wire I originally thought it was)

In the meantime I have pulled the battery case and ECM case and I can now see this huge cable coming down the frame backbone and out the back bottom wrapped in Hockey stick tape. Out of this mess comes what I think is the wires I need to now check. (There is also the voltage regulator cable that feeds down and under the engine along the frame but I don't think that is in the equation at present)

Is the turn signal security module up inside the frame neck or back down at the under seat area ?

 

It's item 15/34 in this parts diagram; located on electrical pannel behind the cover l/h side of bike...

Got some more links for you :

Harley Davidson, 2007 Dyna Models service manual

New 2007 Harley-Davidson Dyna Parts Catalog OEM


They're worth the money.....