In the logs off the tmax how do the throttle position reading look? If you have the original ecu and sensors with nothing changed but the exhaust and air filter now is a good time to swap back just to see if issue follows with it. Contrary to what you read here your bike will run ok with the mild mod of exhaust and air cleaner. Especially for the short time of testing.

 

Who did the wiring when you changed handlebars? Any other mods?

 

TPS readings look okay I think...8 - 9 degrees with raw position at 120. As raw goes up, so does TPS degrees. Sometimes when I'm sitting idle, it's reading vehicle speed of 0 or .16 mph...hopefully that's okay that it fluctuates a little. Injector duty is around 2.5 at idle.

Can I run the stock ECM with my tmax wideband O2 sensors? I have the stock ECM still, just not the narrowband stock sensors. If so, I'll test it out to eliminate the Tmax being the problem.

I'm refreshed a bit today after a good 6 hours sleep. Ready to tackle more!

VSS sensor?
TPS sensor?
Spark plug wires?

I'm almost positive it's electrical since it's intermitant, and sudden when it dies like you've hit the kill switch.

I did the wiring on the handlebars Lo-Rider. I've got a Badlands Load Equalizer on for my LED turns in front and rear. You think that may cause issues?

Tmax tech told me if the ECM doesn't get it's 12V all the time, it'll go crazy. So maybe there's a short or something I'm missing? On all the riding logs I've done, never does it drop below 14.08 volts though.

 

Today took off both batter box and fuse block. Got in there to every wire, sensor and connection including positive and negative terminal poles on the engine and on the battery. Cleaned them with alcohol and applied dielectric grease. Wiggled and checked every wire for breaks and kinks or open insulation. Firmly tightened all + and - connections on both ends. Took off my Badlands Load Equalizer and my pigtail for the HD battery charger. Re-cleaned ECM connector with alcohol and applied a small amount of grease.

Went for a ride and all was well for 20 miles. Then I came downhill across rail road tracks (big bump)...I decelled over them and it died on me when I hit them. Later in the ride another bump killed the engine just like I turned it off with the kill switch.

In the 40 mile ride, no more stumbles, hesitation!! But still dying now, and also lots of pop/backfires...that could be the basemap I loaded on the TMAX ECM since it hasn't had time to adjust and "auto-tune" yet.

What would cause a bump to kill the engine? Sensor going bad? VSS? MAP? Ignition switch? IAC?

I'm going to replace every fuse on the block with new ones next. Easy and simple. I hate to throw more money at sensors that may be fine. Tmax says they are all fine and still NO engine codes.

Later I'll reconnect the load equalizer and charger pigtail to see if that caused the stumbles/poor running.

Let's get this fixed! Sturgis is coming fast!!

 

Any spliced wires in your bars? Sounds like an intermittent short or loose connection.

 

Broken wire or bad connection. Fuses are either good or bad - there's no inbetween. There's no need to replace them if they're good. I'd look for burned wires near the engine and broken/pinched wires under the tank or seat.

 

Well, she ran fine 2 days ago for 20 miles, then died out of the blue. Then another 20 miles and died the same way. But that made for about 60 miles of good running. It was progress! I went through all my switch and handlebar wires again, and all the connections down at the voltage regulator in the electrical caddy. Cleaned and greased everything.

Back out tonight. Died every 10-15 miles, on or off the throttle. Died at idle or cruise, and at 1/2 throttle speeding up once. Went about 35 miles then took a break. After eating we came back the same route. This time I barely made it back. Died at least 45 times on me in 30 miles. This time doing all the things at the beginning of this post. Sputtering, flaming backfires, hesitating, bucking, one flame out the Air Cleaner which at night scared the hell out of me!

So it's back to square ONE. 20 hours of working on her myself over the past 3 weeks, and replacing all the common culprits has done nothing. What a waste. Other than now I know every inch of this bike. But I can't fix her I guess. She's going into the dealer on Saturday. I just hope they can fix her before Sturgis....

Thanks for the help guys...I'll let you know what it was when/if they fix her.

 

I am going to go out on a limb and say it could be the run/off switch on the handlebars. When they go bad they act just like this and I had one go bad on a snowmobile once. They gremlins you chase when it comes to electrical problems will drive you nuts... Good luck.

 

I've thought about that. I tested hitting the kill switch today to see any differences from when it dies on me. There is one...the Speedo goes to zero when I hit the kill switch off. When it just dies on me the speedo remains functional, not even a hiccup. If it was the kill switch shorting out I'd think the speedo would blip down and back up if it's loosing connection, or go down all the way. So, not thinking it's that right now. One thing I haven't done (after re-reading this entire thread) is check my wiring at the brake light. I put on a new Billet boys lighted plate bracket with turns built in, and a new Radiantz tail light in April. Maybe something has worn through and is shorting?

 

Are there more than 3 grounding points on this bike? I've only examined, cleaned and greased the major one on a stud below the battery box on the case, and then the two above that on the frame that are side-by side with each other on studs. Are there more I should be looking at for a possible loose ground?