Procedures for testing Stator
#1
08-27-2011, 06:41 AM
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Procedures for testing Stator
I've been searching this site and haven't been able to find the procedures for testing the Stator. I think it may be the culprit to my problem, but want to know for sure before I start ordering parts. I have the service manual, but it only vaguely describes the procedures for replacing it, but not testing it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
08-27-2011, 07:00 AM
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Not sure this info is in a service manual, but it is in the 'Electrical Diagnostics Manual".
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
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#3
08-27-2011, 02:08 PM
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#4
08-06-2018, 10:34 AM
Advanced
Not sure this info is in a service manual, but it is in the 'Electrical Diagnostics Manual".
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
Went up to 2,000 and had 40-43. Seems good.
All 3 pin swaps I seem to pull the correct amount of voltage but it seemed to jump around as if I didn’t have a good connect. Sometimes dropped to zero and then when I tried to adjust leads they would go back to where they should be.
#5
08-06-2018, 11:06 AM
Advanced
So I did this test and my number were between 16-21 at 1,000 RPM
Went up to 2,000 and had 40-43. Seems good.
All 3 pin swaps I seem to pull the correct amount of voltage but it seemed to jump around as if I didn’t have a good connect. Sometimes dropped to zero and then when I tried to adjust leads they would go back to where they should be.
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