replace steering head bearings and races?
#11
#12
Steering Bearing replacement conundrum.
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; don’t put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. I’m closing on 40K, pull the ’03 FXDX’s special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. “Only put in what came out.” quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; don’t put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. I’m closing on 40K, pull the ’03 FXDX’s special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. “Only put in what came out.” quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
#13
As others have stated no need to replace the bearings or races at 5K unless....
If the forks have been run loose the rollers can dent the races.. Look real close at the race with a magnifying lense.. See any dents on the front or back side replace the bearings and races.
Calvin.. I would use the seals.. If your FXDX has a solid neck you could drill and tap for zerk and leave the seals out as IIRC Dyna frames the stem area opens towards the back of the frame.. Still I'd use the seals..
Since you are doing the front, it's worthwhile to replace the Timkens on the left side of the swingarm and the bushing on the other side.
If the forks have been run loose the rollers can dent the races.. Look real close at the race with a magnifying lense.. See any dents on the front or back side replace the bearings and races.
Steering Bearing replacement conundrum.
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; don’t put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. I’m closing on 40K, pull the ’03 FXDX’s special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. “Only put in what came out.” quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; don’t put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. I’m closing on 40K, pull the ’03 FXDX’s special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. “Only put in what came out.” quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
Calvin.. I would use the seals.. If your FXDX has a solid neck you could drill and tap for zerk and leave the seals out as IIRC Dyna frames the stem area opens towards the back of the frame.. Still I'd use the seals..
Since you are doing the front, it's worthwhile to replace the Timkens on the left side of the swingarm and the bushing on the other side.
#14
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,344
Received 2,189 Likes
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1,677 Posts
Just went through this
1. Use the seals... unless you want more problems
2. Get the races in fun fun ... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showp...&postcount=231
i used timkin bearings and races. Had to get new seals from the dealer.... probably could have ordered them but...., well... reasons...
2. Get the races in fun fun ... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showp...&postcount=231
i used timkin bearings and races. Had to get new seals from the dealer.... probably could have ordered them but...., well... reasons...
#15
Already have the lower bearing in sans rubber, slapped it on soon as the phone calls to HD and PWorks agreed, but will use the rubber on the top. Actually as the bottom takes most of the pounding from both vertical and horizontal forces having a metal cap on the bottom seems to be sensible.
Will look into the rear as soon as time and money are available. I took the time to polish 13 years of funk off the legs and trees by hand, and to paint the unswept areas of the twin disks, learning as I went. The wife is out of patience with the disassembly spread all over and tells me my time of calm contemplation of my mess is at a close.
Will look into the rear as soon as time and money are available. I took the time to polish 13 years of funk off the legs and trees by hand, and to paint the unswept areas of the twin disks, learning as I went. The wife is out of patience with the disassembly spread all over and tells me my time of calm contemplation of my mess is at a close.
#16
#17
bearing replacement
Old thread but i thought seein as im doin the same only diiference is i wana chrome my trees on my breakout instead. Bike has done 11000Miles.
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
#18
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,344
Received 2,189 Likes
on
1,677 Posts
Old thread but i thought seein as im doin the same only diiference is i wana chrome my trees on my breakout instead. Bike has done 11000Miles.
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
#19
Check your FSM, some lower tree bearings are a "slip" fit
For Steering Head Race Removal (reasonably priced )
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0545
For Steering Head Race Removal (reasonably priced )
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0545
#20