I just recieved my billet style brake lever (for 06 wide glide). In looking at the instructions, it seems perfectly simple enough...but as usual, there's problems...and I'm sure there's a trick to this...I just don't know it.

First thing is, you need to remove the cotter pin that connects the "clevis pin" to the brake lever/brake rod. The cotter pin came right out...but this damn clevis pin is in there really tight. The instructions specify that the clevis pin "may have slight interference fit...it may be necessary to use pliers to pull clevis pin from brake rod" Thing is...the clevis pin has a very flat head to it...so getting a pair of pliers around it is almost impossible...and if you do get it around, you really can't get a decent grip on it. I'm nervous to take a hammer to it for fear of bending the brake rod..or cracking anything else. Not to mention, I can't even really get a good swing on a hammer because of the position of this pin. If anyone has any suggestions on how to get this thing out, I'd really appreciate it. I've attached a scan of the instructions so you can see exactly what I'm talking about. (clevis pin - part #2)

The only other problem I've encountered is removing the main bolt holding the footrest mounting piece to the bracket mount. The bolt is a torx #45...ok..no problem...here's the problem...the space where I have to get a socket into to remove the bolt is way to narrow to access the bolt. I suppose if I go to autozone..or a car parts place, I should be able to find a torx socket that will be longer, so I can access this bolt. As of now, I've already busted a torx /screwdriver style bit, which I rigged up into a quarter inch socket/3/8" drive...anyway..that's not important. If I can get a longer torx socket, I should be in business.

As of now, the main problem is the clevis pin. I cannot figure out how I'm gonna get this friggin thing out. Any help would really be appreciated. I would hate to have to pay the dealer to do this, what should be, simple job. At the same time, I don't want to break anything. I could just see myself cracking the pin, going to the dealer, and them telling me I have to buy a whole new forward control set. Don't laugh...it's certainly not beyond them.

Thanks in advance!


Todd


[IMG]local://upfiles/6866/FA61344994DB42D4AA88A77581A97A5F.jpg[/IMG]

 

Use some side cutters behind the head of the clevis pin while jiggling the brake lever at the same time. You aren't going to break it, most likely it's hardened. And if you did, you could get one from a HDWE store. After you get it started, you can pull it with some regular pliers.

As for the T45, I don't know what kind of problem you're having with that? I changed to my extended FWD Controls in about 25 minutes, complete with new rods, brackets, etc. And adjustments.

But then I have been spinning wrenches since age 2.

I just thought of something. Take a small drift punch that will fit inside the bolt and smack it to shock the Loc Tite. I just remembered that, because I used a 1/4" drive T45 on mine, and I didn't break it, but I shocked it first.

 

Todd, could you post a photo of the situation as it is at this point??
Photo of the area you are working on.

Take your time with this, be patient.
You won't have to take it to the dealer.

mud

 

I just put forward controls on my bike, and that pin was like a press fit, so I put a socket over the nail head end of the pin and used channel lock pliers to press the pin out.

 

I bought the chrome peg mounts and flame pegs. I had no probs with the hex bols mounting to the frame. The pin for the break extension....I just worked the brake back and forth changing the angle of pressure on the pin and she came right off.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking Jimmy.
I was wondering how much room was available.



mud

 

Jimmy, and especially mud....thanks...you guys are brilliant. I especially appreciate the pictures Mud...I tried that and it worked! I'll tell you...if I wasn't a straight man, I'd be requesting your addresses right now so that I could make a trip out to please you guys orally But I'm not....so I'll just say thanks again!
I assume when I put the pin back in, I can just sort of reverse the process? Or will it push in easier than it was coming out?

Now to answer the question about the main (torx) bolt. I snapped a couple pictures to show you what I'm talking about. This bolt is really in there good. I tried to get it out by rigging up a 1/4 inch drive and 45 torx (screwdriver type). I snapped that in two. That said, I know I need a more robust 45 torx socket....but the one I have is too wide to fit in the space where the bolt is. See the picture below (sorry it's a little blurry) I'm hoping that I can buy a torx socket that is deeper/thinner, so that I may access the bolt.
Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks again...I really appreciate it!


Todd


[IMG]local://upfiles/6866/F7B9BB85607749FD94FE28B73055966E.jpg[/IMG]

 

Todd, you can get a long reach torx (picture is below).
Chase down a Snap-On truck, sorry, I do not have a number.

Or, there are other solutions as well.

As to the blowwwjob, no thank you, unless you reallymeant
that you were going to send your SO over for the service.
In that case, I'll foot the bill, and throw in an extra 20, for a lunch at McDonalds..

mud

 

Reverse the process, if necessary,
maybe put a little anti-seize on the pin as a lubricant.

mud

 

OK....so I went to the auto parts store today...I got the longer torx socket, and a ft/lb torque wrench....because I currently only had an inch/lb wrench.
So...done...should be easy...right? Of course not...nothing is ever easy for me.

So I get home..break out the 45 torx socket...it fits in the space...should be good. It's a 3/8 inch drive...I have a 3/8 drive ratchet....go to turn the bolt counter-clockwise to remove it. It's in there really tight (and I won't describe how tight because last time I did that I got someone's panties in a bunch)...So I'm turning it slowly, and before I know it, my ratchet tells me it doesn't like that, and snaps. Now I've invented a few new words...I've obviously accomplished something because the footrest bracket has loosened up considerably. But now I'm scared to keep going because I'm thinking I'm gonna break something...not to mention....I don't think any of my ratchets can handle it... so I start to try and turn it the other way. It's just as tight...but I said f**k it because I figure I'm paying for a whole new set of forward controls at this point anyway. Well...I managed to get it tightened back up. The funny thing is, it was almost easier to turn it clockwise to tighten it than it was to loosen it...what's up with that? Is there something I need to know about this bolt? Is it in there with locktite? Is there something that the instructions aren't saying?

I'm so tired of HD's instructions...they make things look very simple (and they should be)....but they don't go into specifics about the little things...and these are the things that are important. So as of right now, I'm still right where I started...my old brake lever is still on the bike, and I'm afraid to remove that bolt because I think I'm gonna break something.

Sorry for the rant....I just hate when I run into this kinda snag. I have a real love-hate relationship with working on my bike. When I get it done, I'm real happy...but sometimes the road is bumpy, and I get frustrated pretty easy.... I really appreciate the help you guys are giving me. I just told my wife..I get much more assistance here than I ever would from the dealer. Matter of fact, I just called the dealer when this was going on...to try to see if they could give me some tips. All I got was...do you wanna make an appointment to have it towed in?

Anyway...mud...or anyone else....if you have any tips for removing this bolt, I'd appreciate it. If it's just a question of getting up enough ***** (and perhaps a breaker bar), please let me know.

Thanks.


Todd