Bought a battery from batteries plus and 4 months later bike wouldnt start, went to look at battery and both terminal melted! Batteries plus tried saying I didnt torque the screws enough, could be? Does Harleys really vibrate that much that you have to retorque the batterie too.

Oh batterie plus replaced it with no cost.

 

I put a new battery in my bike last May and put blue Loctite on the terminal screws. In June I was riding the bike and the headlight started going off and on and then the bike quit. The terminals were too loose and had arced leaving some nasty looking cables to be reattached. It will NOT happen again as I safety wired the terminals to the battery. It cost me a hundred bucks to get it towed and the terminals tightened because I had NO tools with me. Never again...

 

Looks like it might have touched the little metal fitting in the battery box right above the terminal. Mine did that so I covered the fitting w/ electrical tape

 

I don't think you can really torque something into a battery terminal very hard. I do know that last I heard Deka made the batteries plus harley batteries (just like the name brand HD ones) except harley owned the right to the flush side mount terminal. Therefore, the BP batts have that little spacer to flush things up. Glad they replaced the battery, hope your cables are ok.

 

The stock battery in my Street Bob had the negative terminal melt. The negative cable kept coming loose. I put blue loctite on it and it never happened again.
This new battery I got last February from Advance Auto seemed to discharge pretty quick until I figured out the positive cable wasn't tightened completely. One quarter turn on the screw later and it is fine now.

 

YEOUCH...you definitely had some type of cable/terminal failure. Glad they swapped, but do keep an eye on your connections...

 

I would not use blue Loctite on a battery connection. Loctite is a liquid polymer, and polymers are electrical insulators. The last thing you want to do to the connection upon which your entire bike's current handling capability depends is to add insulation. It forms a high resistance connection, and resistance = heat, which = reduced current handling, shortened battery life, dimming lights at idle, etc. In the 35 years I've been riding and working on my own bikes, I have always used an electrically conductive anti-sieze (like Noalox) + a good old-fashioned lock washer. I've never had a battery bolt come loose, my lights don't dim, and the batteries always last a good long time.

I know there are people who will say they've been using Loctite with equal success, but I have to believe that it's because they didn't coat all the threads, and the untreated threads were carrying all the load current. In fact, even Loctite themselves do not recommend thread locker for electrical connections. Depending on the application, they say to use Loctite® Dielectric Grease or Loctite® Silver Anti-Seize Stick exclusively.
http://www.loctite.ph/php/content_da...tion_Guide.pdf