Hesitation when first starting in morning
#1
Hesitation when first starting in morning
Each morning when I start, there is a hesitation before the starter turns over the engine. I tried to work clutch lever several times before starting , but it did not help. Bike is only 7 months old, so I am hoping the battery is not the problem( street bob 2013). Once it warms up, restarting no problem. Maybe the hesitation is normal upon first start. I made sure the battery cables are tight. I always start in neutral. Engine oil 20-50 amsoil.
Any ideas? Starter? Battery?
Thanks,
Roger
Any ideas? Starter? Battery?
Thanks,
Roger
#3
#5
It's not the oil. Get you a Harley maintenance charger. My guess is you need to be sure there is no corrosion and the retightened cables with the maintenance charger leads on.. The lights on it will show pretty good the condition of the battery. Charge a good 24 hours. If that does not fix it, charge it 24 hours, pull battery and have it load tested on a good machine at AutoZone or local Harley Store free. Then get you a Harbour Freight or good AC/DC/volt ohm meter. This stuff is as simple as breathing when you have correct tools (no more then $20). for reference.....After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 02-11-2014 at 07:24 AM.
#6
Trending Topics
#8
A second cup of coffee makes my morning hesitation go away. Chalk it us as one of the idiosyncrasy of that marvelous invention ... EFI. My 07 SB stopped doing that ... after I converted to a carb. You did not mention what the temps were in your area. Keep it on a Battery Tender, which might help out a bit.
#9
It's not the oil. Get you a Harley maintenance charger. My guess is you need to be sure there is no corrosion and the retightened cables with the maintenance charger leads on.. The lights on it will show pretty good the condition of the battery. Charge a good 24 hours. If that does not fix it, charge it 24 hours, pull battery and have it load tested on a good machine at AutoZone or local Harley Store free. Then get you a Harbour Freight or good AC/DC/volt ohm meter. This stuff is as simple as breathing when you have correct tools (no more then $20). for reference.....After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.
Roger