Well the Fat Glide Morfing has run into a slight snag.
1. The Fat Bob fender measures 9.75" when measured on the inside lip and the Street Glide measures 9.5" so I will have .125" on each side to make up. That's not the most difficult part though. This can be done with steel or aluminum filler inside the struts on either side.
2. The center section shape of the Fat Bob is a wider flatter curve than the Street Glide fender which is going to make mating the 2 together difficult. This is needed because the Street Glide fender is shorter in the front leading edge due to the oil tank plus it flattens out and the Fat Bob needs the lead edge to protect the battery box and electronics.
This curve is going to be difficult to mate up. One idea is to split the Fat Bob fender.

Ideas and suggestions are welcome.
Bob

 

I used my Street Bob fender which is even narrower than your Fat Bob fender. I cut out the flat spot in the FLH fender, put the FXDB fender inside of it and traced out where to cut the FXDB fender. I welded them together then hammered them until they flowed into each other. Bondo to perfect it. No need to over engineer, it is just thin metal and can be beaten into submission.

 

Thank you. Yep, that looks pretty much what I will need to do. Last night I set the FLHX fender inside of the FXDF fender. I had already resigned myself that the flat section on the FLHX had to be cut out and the FXDF had to be cut to match that area. It is looking like I will be making my cut almost exactly like yours but just doing it backwards by inserting the new fender into the FXDF and hammering and shriking the FXDF to the FLHX. The good news is I am not destroying my perfect Denim black FXDF one but instead I bought a damaged one off ebay for $55 which has a few dents and a gouge at the rear lip so this is a great doner to use for the morphing.
Anyway the forming may take a few cuts to pull the shape of the FXDF into the FLHX but we will see.
I do know that I will need to cut my struts just before the turn signal mounts so they will resemble the shorter FXDB ones. I had already decided to ditch those ugly *** chrome covers anyway but will likely weld on some metal to the struts to smooth them out then repaint them black to blend in.
Bob

 

Check with forum member lone Watie. He did the Street Glide to Fat Bob fender mix and will have exactly the information for fitting it to your bike.

 

Cool thanks!
Bob

 

Took another look at it tonight . The second option available is to cut the donor FXDF fender .375" behind the rear bolt hole and weld it to the FLHX fender and hammer and dolly the bulge line of the FXDF into the line on the FLHX one.
In a sense I would be cutting the tail of FLHX fender into the top of the FXDF fender but cutting the Bobbed section off and welding in the tail section of the FLHX onto it.
I mean because I will be tossing out that section of the FXDF fender anyway I think it is worth cutting that section first to see how it flows into the FLHX fender first before going the other route.
If the gap between the lines of the two fenders is large I can pie slice the FXDF fender and hammer it into shape holding the newly hammered sections in position with Kleco's as I shape the rest then tack up the seams, cut the FLHX fender and mate the two sections together.
The dent on the donor is an easy ten minute fix with a stud welder. Even the tear in the bobbed end on the donor isn't terrible.
Bob

 

Doing it there is a very visible location. It saves the trouble of filling and redrilling the FLHX mount holes but I would suspect it would not be worth it. The guys in the FL Dyna Social Group pretty much all wound up splicing the fenders up front where it is hidden under the seat and behind the struts. The blend lines are very well hidden there and draw no attention to themselves.

You wind up with a complete and proper FLHX fender that has a hidden extension rather than a half FLHX/FXDF fender with a blend line that may or may not look like it belongs.

 

Yep, that is a concern. BTW do you recall the width of the Street Bob rear fender?
Bob

 

Don't recall the width but I think it is a tight squeeze. I have to use slippery file folders between the fender and the struts to get the fender in without paint damage.

 

Been there done that...LOL! I've used acitate transparency sheets because they won't tear and will allow slip. In addition if you need to drill a last minute hole you can see through them.

Taking another look at the front edge perhaps splicing the FXDF down the center and pulling it in. Not sure until we cut the sections off and prepare the FLHX fender for the mating exactly what will need to be required.
Bob