Blocks or Shocks..........
#1
Blocks or Shocks..........
I know there is some discussion on this but after searching for 2 days, are blocks that bad?
First off, I'm only 155lbs. will I really notice the blocks changing the suspension geometry? I sit on my 13' bob and my rear shocks don't even move. If I bounce on the seat I can see them move some what.
Situation #1- buy 1" lowering block for like $70 so my feet sit flat at a stop light. Do they really ride that bad?
Situation #2- buy 11" or 10.5" shocks for like $200 for the same results, I'd just hate to ditch my brand new shocks that only have 18 miles on them.
Who has blocks and still run them vs. who ditched them and bought shocks?
90% of my riding will probably be 1 up, with the occasional weekend cruises with a chicky.
First off, I'm only 155lbs. will I really notice the blocks changing the suspension geometry? I sit on my 13' bob and my rear shocks don't even move. If I bounce on the seat I can see them move some what.
Situation #1- buy 1" lowering block for like $70 so my feet sit flat at a stop light. Do they really ride that bad?
Situation #2- buy 11" or 10.5" shocks for like $200 for the same results, I'd just hate to ditch my brand new shocks that only have 18 miles on them.
Who has blocks and still run them vs. who ditched them and bought shocks?
90% of my riding will probably be 1 up, with the occasional weekend cruises with a chicky.
#2
If you don't mind the stock ride you can get blocks and crank up the preload. It's cheaper. Any shock you can buy for under $400 that lowers your bike will ride like garbage anyway. Anyone who tells you different hasn't ridden on a quality shock. I ran 1" blocks for two years without any issue other than bottoming out occasionally but I'm 75lbs heavier than you.
#3
I ditched mine. Every once in a while I would hear them bang against the frame, when I hit a bump. checked bolts, they were tight, so I just took them off . I didn't notice any difference in the ride with the blocks on I just don't want to hear parts rattle going down the road. I haven't got to ride my Superglide with the 11" shocks yet. I just got them for xmas and impatiently await spring.
#4
If you don't mind the stock ride you can get blocks and crank up the preload. It's cheaper. Any shock you can buy for under $400 that lowers your bike will ride like garbage anyway. Anyone who tells you different hasn't ridden on a quality shock. I ran 1" blocks for two years without any issue other than bottoming out occasionally but I'm 75lbs heavier than you.
#5
If they are torqued right with loctite they shouldn't move. Mine rubbed one side of the swingarm and marked up the powder coat. I didn't have any rattling issues like the othe dude mentioned. I can snap you a pic of what it did after two year of riding crappy roads in Kansas and Oklahoma.
#6
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,456
Received 3,931 Likes
on
2,288 Posts
I have run blocks on a couple of my bikes. The sporty I have 20k miles over two years. They will not move/rub against the paint.
Here is a link to some for your 13 SB that will not have the tire hitting the fender as long as you stay 200 lbs or less.
Black or Chrome 1"
Here is a link to some for your 13 SB that will not have the tire hitting the fender as long as you stay 200 lbs or less.
Black or Chrome 1"
#7
I have run blocks on a couple of my bikes. The sporty I have 20k miles over two years. They will not move/rub against the paint.
Here is a link to some for your 13 SB that will not have the tire hitting the fender as long as you stay 200 lbs or less.
Black or Chrome 1"
Here is a link to some for your 13 SB that will not have the tire hitting the fender as long as you stay 200 lbs or less.
Black or Chrome 1"
Thank you!!
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: sand mountain Alabama
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
14 Posts
you mentioned how you shocks didn't move unless you bounced on em well if they are that stiff you have them set wrong.
If blocks made for you bike is set up correctly they should not rub. There are more than one style so if they rub you may have em that really is not made for your bike but for several bikes of the same type.
I am not fond of em myself because they change the angle of the shocks and the shocks can not preform properly. So handling is effected whether you notice it or not.
You want to lower it do it right and get some good grade lowered shocks but be prepared to pay. A good set will set you back at least $400 but if you want a good ride lowered it may cost you more.
I have done this many times and have found this is the only good solution.
dd
If blocks made for you bike is set up correctly they should not rub. There are more than one style so if they rub you may have em that really is not made for your bike but for several bikes of the same type.
I am not fond of em myself because they change the angle of the shocks and the shocks can not preform properly. So handling is effected whether you notice it or not.
You want to lower it do it right and get some good grade lowered shocks but be prepared to pay. A good set will set you back at least $400 but if you want a good ride lowered it may cost you more.
I have done this many times and have found this is the only good solution.
dd
#9
If you want lower and better handling you should look up Howard at motorcycle metal. He is doing JRI shock that are lowered but still give a great ride. Be prepared to spend some cash, they're very pricey. You really get what you pay for with suspension stuff, unless you buy progressive, IMO all their stuff is garbage.
#10