Why is my bike running worse after CV Performance rebuild?
#1
Why is my bike running worse after CV Performance rebuild?
I took my carb off, totally cleaned it and rebuilt it with the Premium CV Performance rebuild kit. I put the bike all back together and it runs worse. It will sit and idle just fine but when I go to give it throttle and rev the motor it just chokes it out. The bike wont rev up? What could I have done wrong? The crazy part is if I pull out the enrichener, it will rev up great. I have the easy-just fuel/air screw out about 2 1/2 turns already.
#2
#3
I went with the 48 and 195 jets per the instructions. I did have the top off but was inspected the diaphragm and no holes and was careful to make sure it wasn't being pinched when I screwed the top back on it. Could I need to back the fuel/air screw out even more than 2 1/2? Bfore the rebuild it was out about the same
#4
when your reving are you reving with the air cleaner on or off? should be on. have you checked for any air leaks at the intake boot*rubber thigny the carb pops into* as well as the manifold to head seals. * with a bit of wd-40 or startign fluid whiel the engines idling give a LITTLE squrt in each of the seals and listen for any changes in rpm* if you have a leak it will either surge up or stumble down. if you got a leak reseat it and check again if reseating dont fix the leak new seals time. if no leaks go on to the carb. recheck that diaphragm seriously pull it out and hold a flash light up to it and when puttign it back in use a little rubber lube *disc brake lube is safe* aroudn the seating surfarce that rides in the grove to hold it down in while you carefully button up the lid. then check the slide for freemovment.
i assume your biek is basicly stock *no head work, cam's or compression incresing stuff* 195 is a touch to big for a stock main even o nthe stage 1.
personally i dont put much faith i nthe cv performance stuff bout the only thing i would find useful is the ez adjust thingy for the a/f screw.
the thing with carbs is they are finicky and you should only change 1 thing at a time. my suggestion would be to put your carb back to stock condition * stock main and idle jets, stock needle height*. then start with the idle jet change it out to the 48. then adjust your a/f screw 2.5 turns out from gently seated then fine tune * with the idle speed set as low as it can go without stalling turn in till -the rpm changes then turn out till it changes again counting the turns then turn it back half way to the mid point. then go for a burn see how it responds, then adjust the needle height * i used 2 number 4 washers under the stock needle and is jus tabout perfect, now change your plugs and go for a bit of a ride checkign the various rpm ranegs and throttle response. after about 25-30 minutes fidn a nice clear straight stretch of road and open her wide up in 3-4th for abotu a 1/4-1/2 mile pull the clutch in and kill the engine with the throttle held open coast to the shoulder and pull your plugs and check there color for lean or rich. light tan or white base ring to lean dark brown or black to rich adjust main jet acordingly you want a nice dark toffee/carmel color on the base ring
i assume your biek is basicly stock *no head work, cam's or compression incresing stuff* 195 is a touch to big for a stock main even o nthe stage 1.
personally i dont put much faith i nthe cv performance stuff bout the only thing i would find useful is the ez adjust thingy for the a/f screw.
the thing with carbs is they are finicky and you should only change 1 thing at a time. my suggestion would be to put your carb back to stock condition * stock main and idle jets, stock needle height*. then start with the idle jet change it out to the 48. then adjust your a/f screw 2.5 turns out from gently seated then fine tune * with the idle speed set as low as it can go without stalling turn in till -the rpm changes then turn out till it changes again counting the turns then turn it back half way to the mid point. then go for a burn see how it responds, then adjust the needle height * i used 2 number 4 washers under the stock needle and is jus tabout perfect, now change your plugs and go for a bit of a ride checkign the various rpm ranegs and throttle response. after about 25-30 minutes fidn a nice clear straight stretch of road and open her wide up in 3-4th for abotu a 1/4-1/2 mile pull the clutch in and kill the engine with the throttle held open coast to the shoulder and pull your plugs and check there color for lean or rich. light tan or white base ring to lean dark brown or black to rich adjust main jet acordingly you want a nice dark toffee/carmel color on the base ring
#6
reving with air cleaner on. replaced intake boot. the bike has had pipes, stage 1 and cams which is why according to the chart that came with the upgrade kit I went with the 195 main. I checked for intake seal leaks before I took the carb off the first time so I don't think that is an issue. I guess I will pull it back off tomorrow and check diaphragm again
#7
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#8
reving with air cleaner on. replaced intake boot. the bike has had pipes, stage 1 and cams which is why according to the chart that came with the upgrade kit I went with the 195 main. I checked for intake seal leaks before I took the carb off the first time so I don't think that is an issue. I guess I will pull it back off tomorrow and check diaphragm again
#9
I may sound like a moron or maybe not but when I removed the main jet and emulsion tube I also removed the steel sleeve or needle jet I think it may be called to see what it looked like. When I dropped it back down in the hole before screwing the new emulsion tube and main jet in it seemed like it didn't protrude into the venture as much as it should have and the new emulsion tube didn't seem like it wanted to thread in as far as the stock one had been. Could this be causing all of the issues?
#10
I know the needle jet only went in one way but does it have to be rotated a certain way to drop down fully and seat. I took it out and dropped it back in about 10 times and used a small screw driver to see if I could get it to drop down any more with no luck so I just figured it had to be in correctly. I could only thread the emulsion tube in about a turn and a half though before it felt like it was bottoming out.