I ride my '01 SG to work and back when the weather permits and yesterday afternoon when I rolled into the garage, I noticed the check engine light in the speedometer was on (but not on the idiot lights display) and the odometer LCD display was acting erratic. The engine was running smooth and cool and nothing else was unusual. I assumed that it was a wiring issue with the big connector behind the headlight because I had some issues with a contact not locking when I changed over the handlebars. I replaced the contact and everything was just peachy until this morning. It would not turn over. Starter solenoid clicked and lights dimmed but no go.

I pulled the seat and put the charger on the battery and it pulled max current so I backed off until this afternoon. I pulled the positive wire off of the battery and put the charger on again and this time it did not pull max current so I am charging. I am not sure what is going on but I am concerned that the starter or the alternator may have gone **** up on me...or I do have a wiring problem...or a combination of these. None of these scenarios are all that good. Anyway, I am heading out to the garage and see if I can get it running and check things out. Wish me luck...

 

Start checking your charging system. It very possible the stator has finally grounded out or the regulator/rectifier has chit the bucket. There used to be stator testing in the DIY forum.

 

Sounds like it's time for a new battery...

 

Taking off the positive caused the battery to reduce charging level. Some thing is causing it to change. There should be no difference in charge rate whether positive cable connected or not. If there is you have an issue. Maybe a high impedance to ground somewhere. Check the contact you originally had trouble with. Thats where I would start.

 

It has a new battery (December) and I have been riding regularly. I pulled the headlight and checked my repair on the connector and it is still solid. I put a charger on the battery and charged it up and checked for static system current drain...22 miliamps (digital clock accessory). Reconnected the battery leads and cranked the bike right up with no odometer pinballing problems or check engine light, or any other obvious issues. However, I only have 12.5 volts across the battery with it running. In my many years of auto/aviation experience, it should be 13.5-14.5 volts. Low volts generally signals a voltage regulator or alternator (stator in this case), or both, needing service. I have a manual that goes into good detail on how to check these things but I need to call the dealer on this at this point because I purchased a factory warranty with it and I do not want to give them any excuse to void the warranty (they wouldn't do that, now would they). If they tell me that the electrical system is not covered, then I am all over this. It can't be any more complicated than the electrical system on some of the airplanes I have worked on, right? (Famous last words...)

Thanks for the input, guys...I will keep ya'll updated...

 

It,s always best to disconnect neg cable first, then pos if desired.With fullcharged battery,dissconect charger,use multimeter to read voltage,reconnect neg to battery.Read voltage again. Should be near same or there bis a drain of voltage other than milliamp.of always hot like a car clock or etc. on cycles. A simple way to check charging system is, read battery voltage, should be ok at 12. or+ .With motor runnin, 13+ ta 14 volts. Then ya know . good luck leme know.

 

Finished troubleshooting this morning and it would seem that my stator is shorted because I am reading continuity between the terminals and ground and the AC output is not changing with RPM. The checks on the regulator are normal. Bummer!

Interesting that the check engine light is going out...I guess it only monitors system voltage levels and not output. Now I need to call the dealer and see if R/R the stator is covered under warranty before I do anything else.

 

Good luck. Argue with them if you have to.

 

I could not get anyone at the dealer to return my calls about warranty or not so I went in person. They were very respectful and apologetic for not returning my calls...and they were pretty busy. $50 warranty job.. They put it on the top of the list.

 

Let us know what it was.