So I'm going to put new progressive fork springs in this coming week. I generally work on most of my own stuff so I was wondering how hard it is to throw these in myself instead of paying someone 150 bucks to do it? Any help or advice is greatley appreciated.

 

Loosen the fork cap bolt first then just go from there. Pretty srt8 forward.

 

If it is the drop in lowering springs, you need to figure out how much you want to lower it. You have to cut the spacers to match amount lowering distance. I used a pipe cutter. Loosen top triple tree pinch bolts (do one side at a time). I used masking tape on the fork caps so that I did not scratch them. Loosen caps slowly and carefully using your hand to press down while turning. The springs pressure can shoot the cap across your shop. Cover your tank! Depending on bike, refer to your manual, measure the distance from the top of the compressed fork to the top of the fork oil. I took a zip tie and cut the top off of it then put it on the cut off piece. Measured the distance from the zip part down the length of the length and put a mark. Slid the "tool" into the fork using the zip portion as a stop against the top of the fork.

 

Iwouldnt remove the fork tube caps without jacking up your bike first!

 

Yeah.. What he said.. Good point. The directions they give you with the kit are pretty straight forward. Do the work yourself, it's a great learning experience.. Cheers-

 

 

I used a 12v marine ( dip stick) oil pump to suck the old fork oil out.
I dropped in some intiminators when I installed my front springs.
I also used a tubbing cutter to shorten the preload spacers an inch.
I have the manual and used a brake bleeder to suck to the proper hieght for the oil.
I believe it was 4 inches from the top compressed with the springs out.

 

If you are going to open up your forks, why not drop the intiminators too? Wear some gloves taking off/replacing those caps - I know, cut my knuckles a little.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. Yeh I'm just waiting for them to gt here then I am going to start tearing it down get the lowers off and get them powder coated black and what not. I'm going back to stock height springs I have lowered ones from burly in there now that came with the bike but I'm getting rid of em if anyone won't them lol

 

I just installed a set of these last weekend. I have a 2010 Street Bob and I put in part #11-1525, the regular height, progressive-rate springs. I bought the stock fork fluid fom Harley to supplement/replace any I needed to remove ot supplement.

SO....

Before I started the install, I called Progressive. Their instructions are a little "technical" when they get to the part about pre-load. Now this may just be me, as I see that as I get older the instructions make less and less sense to me. I'm turning into my father.

I asked about the fork oil height, because it didn't make sense to me about the height with the new springs. I was told by the tech that even though the intructions say use a maximum of 5.50 inches of fork fluid in the fork tubes (with springs and spacers removed and forks fully compressed) that they are recommending to use the manufacturer's specified amount from the service manual (3.74 inches).

So I went with that. I got everything out, measured the fork level, slipped in the new springs and the spacers (the notes supplement for my bike specified to use the provided spacer) and put the caps back in.

I had NO movement at all in the front suspension.

So I called back. Told the tech exactly what I had done. He then explained pre-load to me and said, "look, the easiest way to figure it is this - measure your fluid, then put the springs in, then the spacers. The spacers will be sticking out above the edge of your forks. Mark the spacers where they are even with the edge of your forks, remove and cut them so they are flush, then drop in the spacers and install the caps."

So, why all the math in the instructions then?

I did what he said, and it's all back together. I went with the 5.50 measurement as recommended by the Progressive instructions. I think I will go back in and add some more fluid though.

Results so far - the bike sits more level, the front does not dive at all, and it seems to steer quicker, or easier. More like an FL does. All in all a good upgrade.

My advice:

1. Put your bike on some big pieces of cardboard. The fork oil drips everywhere.

2. Make sure your forks are completely compressed to get an accurate measurement of fork oil in the tubes.

3. Go to Autozone for a 35mm socket.

4. Be very careful putting the caps back in. The threads ar very fine and they need to be level in the fork tube or they are easily cross-threaded. (I read in a thread here that a guy rotated his backwards until he heard a click and then screwed them in.)

Good luck with your install.