I took my bike out today and went down the road for maybe a mile and I noticed my battery light and check engine light came on, so I brought the bike home and checked the code. The code that came up was p0562 low efi voltage. it also said pn34385-06. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was at 11.50 and when i reved the bike up the voltage was not going up it was going down. Does anyone know if it is the stator or if its the voltage regulator. I know the 06 street bobs rotors explode and ruin the stator but i think if that happend I would hear a grinding noise in the motor. The bike will still start up and the battery light and check engine light wont go on until I ride it for like a minute or two. I just dont want to go out and waste my money on the wrong part. thanks

 

Remove battery, charge it over night and carry it to autozone and have them check it. Way dead battery will kill your alternator/regulator if it has not already did it.

After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.

12.8 = full charged

12.6 = 75%

12.3 = 50%

12.0 =25%

With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.7 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below 9.6 volts or so and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read 14.8 or so volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 or so shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the battery is recharged from starting, the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test but really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it.

 

Interesting! I'll try that one on my 05 Super Glide just for kicks.

 

Ok thanks ill go get the battery checked tomorrow. But even if the battery is dead should it still show that the volts are going up when i hook up the volt meter to battery and rev the bike? Right now its showing that the volts are staying the same when i rev the bike and not going up. could that happen becuase of a dead battery or because of the stator or voltage regulator.

 

Also check your ground and cables. Also unplug the stator from the vr and use your multimeter to check the ac output. If it's extremely high say 70-80 or zero then there is your problem. There is no way to check the vr just all the other components.

 

I just went through this with my 01 SG. I had the exact same symptoms with one more, the LCD odometer was pinballing. These are the troubleshooting steps in my manual that I used to find a bad stator. It is still at the dealer getting an extended warranty repair.

Check battery connections. With a full charge on your battery, measure across the terminals while cranking. The voltage should not drop below 9.6 vdc. With the engine running, the voltage should be 14.5 vdc or more. If the battery drops below 9.6 vdc with a good fresh charge, replace the battery. If the volts at the battery with the motor running is not at least 14.5 vdc, check the charging system. Rule of thumb about any 12 volt automotive system is that the voltage must be at least 1.5 vdc higher than the battery's rating. If the the voltage is not above 14 vdc at any time, it is not charging.

Pull stator plug to regulator and check stator plug pin-to-pin for continuity, check each pin to ground for infinity. Infinity or resistance across the pins and or any reading from pin to ground is a problem.

With the stator and voltage regulator disconnected, crank engine and check across the stator pins for AC output from stator. It should be 16-26+ volts AC per 1000 rpm that should increase with engine rpm. If it does not increase, the stator is shorted and making its own load internally. R/R stator. (This is what I found wrong with mine.)

Check the voltage regulator ground between voltage regulator ground and a good frame ground. Check between each pin on the voltage regulator and ground using a check light. If the lamp lights, the voltage regulator is bad. You can do this with an ohmmeter if you are familiar with what a diode junction looks like with a meter.

It would not be unheard of for all three or a combination of the three to be bad at the same time.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

If its an 06 I would suspect the rotor, they don't always make any noise when they go.

Check stator output at the plug, it will read 0 if the rotor is stuffed....do this first.

 

If your mechanically inclined, remove your outer primary cover. If you see copper spaghetti... your been hacked by the 06 Dyna Stator gremlin.

 

I 2nd ebeattie; drain that primary and look for small copper spaghetti...chewed copper spaghetti.

 

Yep, Do this first. The stator is most likely. Unplug stator underneath regulator. Stator wires are the large ones coming out of the front of the engine case on the left side. With your meter across any two pins on the stator side and set on AC, check voltage output with bike running. Should be about 15-25 at idle and raise 10 volts per 1000rpm.