Trick ignition
#1
Trick ignition
For those without the dash ignition switch and anyone that hates the neck switch here is an alternative. Access the wires on the stock switch and splice in three wires at the terminals. Hook up the stock switch and run the new wires along the frame behind the battery box. I drilled a small hole into the side of the battery box to add the two position switch. Solder the new wires to the switch. No more keys jingling in the wind. Both switches work the same way, i just added the toggle switch in parallel.
#5
Sounds to me like he just wired around the key. And made it easy for anyone to steal his bike if you know the trick. Now he just need to post his address.
#6
I would still like to see proper diagram with instructions.
#7
I have good news and bad news....
the good news is 1. there is no risk of theft since you still need to have the fob near the bike, 2. it's really easy to do as long as you know how to splice and solder. the bad news is I didn't make a diagram when I did it but I can explain it just as well.
On your neck switch there are three terminals: A, B, C...A, is on the top. just slide your tank back and out of the way as much as you can, fish out the wires from the neck switch one at a time and mark them. Cut off the female terminals and splice in new wires using new female terminals. I needed to trim out some of the wire to fit both in the new terminal but as long as the wires fit snug and are crimped properly it's good. Do the same with the remaining two terminals. Wrap up the wiring using electrical or teflon tape to prevent chaffing ( I used both) and hook them back up to the stock neck switch leaving the three new wires hanging out. You will need about 3 feet of wire for each terminal. I would also suggest using teflon tape or spiral wrap on the wires you will be running to the battery box to prevent chaffing. Run these wires back to the battery box (should be removed). you can use the stock wire cradle that is under the tank for support and tighten the wires up with small zip ties for security.
on your toggle switch solder two of the wires to either terminal and the remaining wire to another terminal. they should have continuity only with the switch on. The diagram would come in handy here if I had made one but since I didn't here is how you can get around it. solder about 6 inches of wire to the switch with two wires on one terminal and one on the other now you can twist the wires together joining them to the wires you ran from the neck switch. play with the combination for a few minutes until you find the correct configuration. make sure with the switch off you have no power to the speedo or the lights. and with the switch on you have ignition, lights, turn signals and brake lights. if your speedo is lit up or you have no brake lights it's not correct. Believe me, you wont blow any fuses or harm anything by doing this. I had to do the same thing because I stuffed the wires to the neck switch without marking the extensions so I had to use trial and error.
In the end you will be able to use the toggle switch, or the neck switch to start the bike. everything works as before and you still need the fob near the bike to start it. you have a redundant switch wired in parallel to the stock one. So if one fails you have a backup
the good news is 1. there is no risk of theft since you still need to have the fob near the bike, 2. it's really easy to do as long as you know how to splice and solder. the bad news is I didn't make a diagram when I did it but I can explain it just as well.
On your neck switch there are three terminals: A, B, C...A, is on the top. just slide your tank back and out of the way as much as you can, fish out the wires from the neck switch one at a time and mark them. Cut off the female terminals and splice in new wires using new female terminals. I needed to trim out some of the wire to fit both in the new terminal but as long as the wires fit snug and are crimped properly it's good. Do the same with the remaining two terminals. Wrap up the wiring using electrical or teflon tape to prevent chaffing ( I used both) and hook them back up to the stock neck switch leaving the three new wires hanging out. You will need about 3 feet of wire for each terminal. I would also suggest using teflon tape or spiral wrap on the wires you will be running to the battery box to prevent chaffing. Run these wires back to the battery box (should be removed). you can use the stock wire cradle that is under the tank for support and tighten the wires up with small zip ties for security.
on your toggle switch solder two of the wires to either terminal and the remaining wire to another terminal. they should have continuity only with the switch on. The diagram would come in handy here if I had made one but since I didn't here is how you can get around it. solder about 6 inches of wire to the switch with two wires on one terminal and one on the other now you can twist the wires together joining them to the wires you ran from the neck switch. play with the combination for a few minutes until you find the correct configuration. make sure with the switch off you have no power to the speedo or the lights. and with the switch on you have ignition, lights, turn signals and brake lights. if your speedo is lit up or you have no brake lights it's not correct. Believe me, you wont blow any fuses or harm anything by doing this. I had to do the same thing because I stuffed the wires to the neck switch without marking the extensions so I had to use trial and error.
In the end you will be able to use the toggle switch, or the neck switch to start the bike. everything works as before and you still need the fob near the bike to start it. you have a redundant switch wired in parallel to the stock one. So if one fails you have a backup
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#9
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,456
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Nice work. I am doing the same thing on my Sporty...just have not decided where to "hide"/mount it yet.
#10
I have good news and bad news....
the good news is 1. there is no risk of theft since you still need to have the fob near the bike, 2. it's really easy to do as long as you know how to splice and solder. the bad news is I didn't make a diagram when I did it but I can explain it just as well.
On your neck switch there are three terminals: A, B, C...A, is on the top. just slide your tank back and out of the way as much as you can, fish out the wires from the neck switch one at a time and mark them. Cut off the female terminals and splice in new wires using new female terminals. I needed to trim out some of the wire to fit both in the new terminal but as long as the wires fit snug and are crimped properly it's good. Do the same with the remaining two terminals. Wrap up the wiring using electrical or teflon tape to prevent chaffing ( I used both) and hook them back up to the stock neck switch leaving the three new wires hanging out. You will need about 3 feet of wire for each terminal. I would also suggest using teflon tape or spiral wrap on the wires you will be running to the battery box to prevent chaffing. Run these wires back to the battery box (should be removed). you can use the stock wire cradle that is under the tank for support and tighten the wires up with small zip ties for security.
on your toggle switch solder two of the wires to either terminal and the remaining wire to another terminal. they should have continuity only with the switch on. The diagram would come in handy here if I had made one but since I didn't here is how you can get around it. solder about 6 inches of wire to the switch with two wires on one terminal and one on the other now you can twist the wires together joining them to the wires you ran from the neck switch. play with the combination for a few minutes until you find the correct configuration. make sure with the switch off you have no power to the speedo or the lights. and with the switch on you have ignition, lights, turn signals and brake lights. if your speedo is lit up or you have no brake lights it's not correct. Believe me, you wont blow any fuses or harm anything by doing this. I had to do the same thing because I stuffed the wires to the neck switch without marking the extensions so I had to use trial and error.
In the end you will be able to use the toggle switch, or the neck switch to start the bike. everything works as before and you still need the fob near the bike to start it. you have a redundant switch wired in parallel to the stock one. So if one fails you have a backup
the good news is 1. there is no risk of theft since you still need to have the fob near the bike, 2. it's really easy to do as long as you know how to splice and solder. the bad news is I didn't make a diagram when I did it but I can explain it just as well.
On your neck switch there are three terminals: A, B, C...A, is on the top. just slide your tank back and out of the way as much as you can, fish out the wires from the neck switch one at a time and mark them. Cut off the female terminals and splice in new wires using new female terminals. I needed to trim out some of the wire to fit both in the new terminal but as long as the wires fit snug and are crimped properly it's good. Do the same with the remaining two terminals. Wrap up the wiring using electrical or teflon tape to prevent chaffing ( I used both) and hook them back up to the stock neck switch leaving the three new wires hanging out. You will need about 3 feet of wire for each terminal. I would also suggest using teflon tape or spiral wrap on the wires you will be running to the battery box to prevent chaffing. Run these wires back to the battery box (should be removed). you can use the stock wire cradle that is under the tank for support and tighten the wires up with small zip ties for security.
on your toggle switch solder two of the wires to either terminal and the remaining wire to another terminal. they should have continuity only with the switch on. The diagram would come in handy here if I had made one but since I didn't here is how you can get around it. solder about 6 inches of wire to the switch with two wires on one terminal and one on the other now you can twist the wires together joining them to the wires you ran from the neck switch. play with the combination for a few minutes until you find the correct configuration. make sure with the switch off you have no power to the speedo or the lights. and with the switch on you have ignition, lights, turn signals and brake lights. if your speedo is lit up or you have no brake lights it's not correct. Believe me, you wont blow any fuses or harm anything by doing this. I had to do the same thing because I stuffed the wires to the neck switch without marking the extensions so I had to use trial and error.
In the end you will be able to use the toggle switch, or the neck switch to start the bike. everything works as before and you still need the fob near the bike to start it. you have a redundant switch wired in parallel to the stock one. So if one fails you have a backup