Lowering the back end
#1
Lowering the back end
I have a 2013 Street Bob. Multiple people have told me I should lower the back. I tend to agree as I like the look, but I'm not looking to spend hundreds on new shocks or lowering kits. I know one of the selling points of the 13 Bob was that it has adjustable shocks. Some people have said I can lower it an inch or two by taking a spanner wrench to the shocks, but I thought that was weight based. Other's say lowering the shocks also involves playing with the sag and damper. Some said lowering the back means you'd have to adjust the front too. Then there's a whole discussion on performance on turns, etc.
I'm happy where it is, but if I can adjust it an inch or two lower in the back only, have a 100 - 130 lb passenger from time to time (I'm 190), and not affect performance badly, and not do damage to the bike, I'd like to do it. I don't really mind if it's a "rougher" ride... I just don't want to hit have the tire hit the underside of the fender if I hit a bump.
Can anybody shed light on this?
I'm happy where it is, but if I can adjust it an inch or two lower in the back only, have a 100 - 130 lb passenger from time to time (I'm 190), and not affect performance badly, and not do damage to the bike, I'd like to do it. I don't really mind if it's a "rougher" ride... I just don't want to hit have the tire hit the underside of the fender if I hit a bump.
Can anybody shed light on this?
#2
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: sand mountain Alabama
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The biggest difference other than looks is less travel.
If you ride solo then you should not experience bottoming out. If you do ride 2 up make sure you get good shocks.
The HD lowered shocks, 11 inch sucks. Only 2 inches of travel with not much preload. 2 up we bottom out every few minutes.
I have use the progressive 11 inch shocks and like them, never bottomed out.
The bike looks much better lowered front and rear. Ours is. Used progressive drop in lowering kit.
Depending on your exhaust and your bike you may scrap.
Our wide glide has V&H big radius 2 into 2 and scrape a lot. I went back to 12 inch shocks because of it. I still need better shocks.
If you ride solo then you should not experience bottoming out. If you do ride 2 up make sure you get good shocks.
The HD lowered shocks, 11 inch sucks. Only 2 inches of travel with not much preload. 2 up we bottom out every few minutes.
I have use the progressive 11 inch shocks and like them, never bottomed out.
The bike looks much better lowered front and rear. Ours is. Used progressive drop in lowering kit.
Depending on your exhaust and your bike you may scrap.
Our wide glide has V&H big radius 2 into 2 and scrape a lot. I went back to 12 inch shocks because of it. I still need better shocks.
#3
#4
The adjustments on the shocks are for the stiffness and/or amount of weight your carrying. These will not change the height of the bike other than it may sag more at a lighter setting because the shocks are compressed more. If you want to lower the rear you will need lowering blocks or shoter shocks. You can lower it without issues if you lower the front as wel you may need a shorter kick stand.
#6
I have had the progressive shocks on my bike since 06 and the ride isn't that much rougher. I didn't touch the front forks either and don't notice any loss in handling.
If the Burly shocks had been around I would have gotten those, but I'm happy with my progressives. Definitely go with shorter shocks, you'll get the look you want and not that big a hit on the wallet. Plus they are an easy install.
If the Burly shocks had been around I would have gotten those, but I'm happy with my progressives. Definitely go with shorter shocks, you'll get the look you want and not that big a hit on the wallet. Plus they are an easy install.
#7
I don't understand either, the real reason for having the bike is to ride. Heck with what "multiple people" said. These bikes barely have enough suspension travel and cornering clearance as they are. Once you're sitting on it it drops down and you can't see it anyway.
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