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using auto tune to set idle afr

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Old 06-30-2013, 08:53 PM
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Default using auto tune to set idle afr

On the pc-v auto tune I have set the idle afr 750-1250 rpm to 13.5 AFR. This kicks in when the auto tune get enabled after 45 seconds. Before that the ECM is controlling idle.

Is there any negatives to setting the idle afr using the auto tune sensors this way, vs just enriching the fuel table itself?

Also I went with 13.5 as opposed to 13.8 just to keep things a little more cooler. Any thoughts on weather that little increase it too much?

Anyone else do something similar?
 
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:16 PM
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I modified a tune that I'd used auto tune on and ran real good for me. I only changed all the stoic from14.6 to 13.8 to see if it would run cooler. According to the temp gage on the PV it made no difference but I never tried adding more fuel than that. If it works for you make sure you post it and how far you had to go. Sorry just noticed you had a PC-V. I did mine with a power vision.
 
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:40 PM
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Yeah I have a PC-v but it should work the same regardless. Changing the idle AFR I definitely notice a decrease in temps. I just wanna make sure 13.5 isn't too rich or using the wide band o2 sensors to maintain that idle AFR isn't an issue.
 
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:38 AM
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bump.....
 
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by izzyryder
Changing the idle AFR I definitely notice a decrease in temps. I just wanna make sure 13.5 isn't too rich or using the wide band o2 sensors to maintain that idle AFR isn't an issue.
NightRider.Com has some great info related to your question: see http://www.nightrider.com/parts/hd2007hd_heat_00.htm
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:22 AM
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That's a great read up, thanks..
 
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:17 PM
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Here is a follow up from those who may be interested.

You cannot set the idle areas 0% throttle at 750/1000/1250rpm to a target afr using auto tune as reversion occurs and will keep adding negative trims. This in turn makes the engine actually idle leaner.

I experience this after 2 hours of riding and by confirming with dynojet themselves. i know they recommend leaving the entire 0 and 2% throttle columns at 0 but thought idle might have been ok, but it was still prone to the same problem.

Instead, I ran the bike at idle messing around with the fuel table to get the idle AFR around where I wanted it to be (about 13.5). After some trial and error, adding fuel to cylinder 1 (+6 at 750,100,1250) and +8 to cylinder 2 (750,1000,1250) brought the idle down to 13.5 to 13.8, respectively.

I had tried going with a +5 and a +6 but when i did a majority of the time the idle afr would peak and run over 14 to 14.6 afr.

Hope this is helpful to anyone who may come across this in the future.
 
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