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fat bob oil change

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  #1  
Old 08-06-2013, 04:52 PM
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Unhappy fat bob oil change

Change the oil yourself he said, SO not being the handy type, i gather OIL and oil filter, get my hefty *** on the ground, and find the HEX oil plug blocked by other parts of bike. SO my question to you Doers, is, Must i cut a HEX WRENCH smaller in order to FIT the space( those who own a 13 Fat bob and changed oil will know) Or is there another way of removeing the Oil Plug>>> Also how do you guys prevent the oil from filter from going all over your bike. YEAH IM saving Money by doing it myself and im haveing SO MUCH FUN,
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by piggy
Change the oil yourself he said, SO not being the handy type, i gather OIL and oil filter, get my hefty *** on the ground, and find the HEX oil plug blocked by other parts of bike. SO my question to you Doers, is, Must i cut a HEX WRENCH smaller in order to FIT the space( those who own a 13 Fat bob and changed oil will know) Or is there another way of removeing the Oil Plug>>> Also how do you guys prevent the oil from filter from going all over your bike. YEAH IM saving Money by doing it myself and im haveing SO MUCH FUN,
Just remove the rubber stopper from the frame to get it out of your way, you can snap it right back on when you're done.

I always use a small piece of cardboard, fold it into a V and stuff it under the filter before removing it.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:43 PM
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Default Oil Changes

The plug, in fact all the drain plugs, are 5/8" outside diameter. I use a 5/8" universal socket to remove mine. As far as the filter goes, I punch 2 holes in the end of the filter, at 6 and 12 o'clock, so the oil can drain into a spillway and into a bucket. I let the filter drain all night and in the morning I just take the filter off and there is no residual oil to spill. You need to get the oil warm by riding the bike a while before you start draining it. Taking out the filler/dipstick will help it come out smoother and not glug-glug.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:51 PM
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regular 5/8ths wrench on an angle so you won't touch the ground, it should not be tight at all. when you put it back just snug, the little o-ring will prevent leakage. It sounds like you should have asked before proceeding!
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffKill
Just remove the rubber stopper from the frame to get it out of your way, you can snap it right back on when you're done.

I always use a small piece of cardboard, fold it into a V and stuff it under the filter before removing it.
+2
 
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:20 PM
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Don't for get to change the primary oil as well and I do my tranny oil at the start of every season too.
After doing it one time it will be easy and you'll save yourself some cash!
 
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:51 PM
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if you dont punch holes in the oil filter as mentioned above be prepared to watch it run all over your motor mounts. I get mine up to operating temp before I dump the oil to suspend all the contaminates and help it drain faster. I let the filter drain for 1/2 hr after punching holes. One of those thin flexible cutting boards cut down works great to make a trough for draining the filter
 
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:32 PM
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Not everybody should change their own oil. Not being mean , but it's the truth.
 
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:39 AM
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I have a '13 FB and I have no idea what you're talking about in regards to the drain plug being blocked. I've changed all three holes with no problems at all.
 
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DJY
Not everybody should change their own oil. Not being mean , but it's the truth.
I know what you mean .. when you read some questions you have too wonder their skill level/common scence... I recommend if you must ask very basic questions please get some one too teach you the basics first ,, we all must learn new skills ,,, classic one how do I remove handgrips, a 2 minute job once the bars are stripped off HOT water in a jug
 


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