Starter won't disengage! 2005 Super Glide
#32
10-11-2013, 06:47 AM
12.6 volts, static, at the battery tells you that it has a charge but it does not tell you if the battery has the capacity to cold crank your ride. You have to read around ~10 volts when the engine is cranking over to determine if the battery can deliver cranking current and maintain enough volts to fire up the ignition system and start the engine.
To check the start relay, put your volt meter across the big terminals and crank. Listen for the relay click as it is activated...when the starter is energized and the contacts closed, the volt meter should read almost zero volts...if you read more than a few milivolts when the relay is energized and the starter motor load on the circuit, then the relay contacts are defective. If you don't hear the click when the relay is supposed to energize and you are reading full line volts across the big contacts, then trouble shoot the start switch-relay wiring circuit to the relay. A good place to start is the relay control wiring to make sure the relay coil has not opened and then the handlebar switches/wiring and then that fuse block.
To check the start relay, put your volt meter across the big terminals and crank. Listen for the relay click as it is activated...when the starter is energized and the contacts closed, the volt meter should read almost zero volts...if you read more than a few milivolts when the relay is energized and the starter motor load on the circuit, then the relay contacts are defective. If you don't hear the click when the relay is supposed to energize and you are reading full line volts across the big contacts, then trouble shoot the start switch-relay wiring circuit to the relay. A good place to start is the relay control wiring to make sure the relay coil has not opened and then the handlebar switches/wiring and then that fuse block.
Last edited by skinman13; 10-11-2013 at 06:51 AM.
#33
10-11-2013, 08:36 AM
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Harmelen (The Netherlands, Europe)
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Have you checked the AB 15 amp fuse (right hand top corner at fuse block)?
Check for 12V at the points indicated in attachment. If you have 12V at the points indicated, check if you have a proper ground (black wire) for the instruments...
More wiring diagrams for your model to be found over here:
***Dyna Models Wiring Diagram Links Index*** part 1 post # 1
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; 10-11-2013 at 09:09 AM.
#34
10-19-2013, 05:03 PM
UPDATE!
So guess what? THE SWITCH WENT BAD. That's why the starter wouldn't disengage. Also, I had to replace the Z-bars because they were bent from the accident I had in Febraury. I put in regular Sportster/Dyna bars, I'm not exactly crazy about the looks but it will do for now.
Since the starter switch went bad, I had no choice but to hotwire the bike to use it in the meantime. Now I have to join the cables for a second, rev it and get the bike going, just like a bad action movie!
Thank you very much for all your help fixing this issue!
So guess what? THE SWITCH WENT BAD. That's why the starter wouldn't disengage. Also, I had to replace the Z-bars because they were bent from the accident I had in Febraury. I put in regular Sportster/Dyna bars, I'm not exactly crazy about the looks but it will do for now.
Since the starter switch went bad, I had no choice but to hotwire the bike to use it in the meantime. Now I have to join the cables for a second, rev it and get the bike going, just like a bad action movie!
Thank you very much for all your help fixing this issue!
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