I'm putting apes on my wifes new Super Glide and it's requiring longer throttle and idle cables. There are really small retaining clips holding each 45 degree in place on the grip housing and I wonder if anyone has any pointers on getting the clips on and off? Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

Grab it & carefully pull it out by hand. You might be unlucky & have some grief with either one of them, but they usually just come right out by pulling on the metal elbow protruding from the switch housing, while supporting the housing with your other hand.

Obviously remove the cable & brass ferrule from the throttle first.

 

Applying a squirt of WD-40 before pulling will help getting them out as well....

 

Yep, they are spring loaded so lube helps.

Not asking this to be a smartass, but are you mechanically minded at all? Reason I'm asking is I did my own ape install too, & to be sure there are some tasks to this that are much more difficult than these clips ahead of you. (Clutch release cover mechanism and connector repinning come to mind) I'm a qualified technician with all the tools & even I struggled the first time!

 

I am very capable and did my RK, but I haven't done throttle cables for years and I'm never too cocky to ask a dumb question....I prefer those to dumb expensive mistakes
Had to do clutch cable on the RK and it wasn't so bad, had a hell of a time getting the new cable threaded into the outter cover. I may get lucky and not need it on the FXD, but then again you never know till you button things up.
The last time I had to deal with cables was on my 98 DWG and been awhile but thanks for looking out for me.
So, while I'm asking dumb questions let me ask another, it pulls straight out...simple enough how about the reverse, just press em back in?

 

Yep, just press them in till they snap.

As to the clutch cable threaded into the cover...here's how I did it some years ago:

When installing the new clutch cable into the cover be careful not to damage the threads in the clutch release cover. Here's how I managed to get in the clutch cable without any problems:

1. I hung the clutch cable from the ceiling in my garage using a string
2. Sat underneath it with the clutch release cover between my knees
3. Grabbed the threaded end of the clutch cable, inserted the cable end into the threaded hole and positioned the cable in line with the cover
4. Once the two threaded parts gott together, I first slowly turned the cable counter clockwise until I felt the threads falling together
5. From that point I slowly turned the cable's threaded end clockwise. When you don't feel any resistance you should be OK!

 

Yep, pull out and push in. The burlys I bought were a pain to get back in. Kept wanting to come out of groove. Finally got it, but it was a pain.

 

Nice, the video of that woulda been entertaining
I'm going with Barnett cables and hopefully there will be no pulling out shenanigans ....thanks for the help guys.

 

After a lot of miles, they groove in and are a bear to snap out. But they do. Cover that tank and fender. Nice to have 4 hands

 

Not saying this to be a smartass, but last Christmas, after not having touched any motorcycle for nearly 30 years or an airplane in 13 years, I changed the handle bars on my then new to me '01 SG to mini-apes. I used OEM handlebars for a WG, with all three WG cables and a WG brake line. My old SG is not internally wired and I decided not to compromise the structural integrity of the handlebars by drilling on them and went back with external wiring. It also did not have any connectors from the controls to the wiring under the seat so I had to solder-splice and heat shrink the extensions. I put the wire extensions in where the wire goes into the front of the frame and covered the wiring with snakeskin. I replaced all of the hardware and levers and mirrors and chrome everything, moved the front turn signals to the lower triple tree, put it all back together, looked everything over one more time, and fired that puppy up first try with all the lights working perfectly. The only big issue was that it was a bear to get the front brake system to bleed after rebuilding the master and calipers...I got frustrated and had to walk away from it a couple of times. After all that work changing the handlebars over, for a couple of days I just could not get the front brake to work...until I learned that DoT 5 absorbs microscopic air bubbles and that makes bleeding a royal PITA sometimes...so letting it sit a few days while I worked on other things actually was the right thing to do for the air to collect so it could be bleed off. The only other issue was a bad common ground connection contact in the main front connector behind the headlight that made the odometer pinball and tach jump around and gauge lights flicker. I dug up a contact out of my leftover airplane junk that was the right size and would lock in the connector and crimped it on and was back in business.

No real hassles or puzzles, I cranked on some tunes and took my time, and things went just like they were supposed to...and I had a blast doing it...even those damn brakes!

And, I am not a, "qualified technician," just a mechanically inclined old fart with some tools and wiring expertise who wanted to do it himself...