Front suspension tuning on a FXDX
#3
#4
yup the manual will square you away.
But basically there are 3 adjustment points on each shock.
at the base there is a little ****, at the top the shock there is a similour **** and at the top the part that has a wrench fitting adjusts as well. As far as what each one does i forget on mine i adjusted them years ago and never moved them again.
But basically there are 3 adjustment points on each shock.
at the base there is a little ****, at the top the shock there is a similour **** and at the top the part that has a wrench fitting adjusts as well. As far as what each one does i forget on mine i adjusted them years ago and never moved them again.
#5
I don't have a vid, but I have an FXDX and an owners manual. I'll try to help. The first thing you need to do I'd adjust the preload on the front suspension. It is adjusted at the top of the tube by undoing the lock nut and tightening or loosening the compression. Note in the manual warns to make them equal, I think by counting threads. Standard is 4 visible
The top ***** on the legs are for rebound damping. There are 17 clicks between S and H, factory standard in 2000 was 8 down from max H.
The bottom **** on the back of the leg is for compression damping. 14 click positions, standard is 3 down from H.
Just for completeness, rear preload 3rd cam down from max
Rear rebound not adjustable
Rear compression, adjustor(top of the shock towards the front) turns with a small flat blade screwdriver, 10 click stops, factory standard 3 down from H
I do a big adjustment between 1up and 2up. I never pay any attention to the factory settings, I set them and test drive until I get how I want.
When 1up I use 2 different settings- one I think of as Buick - I soften everything but the preload up. It adds some brake dive but soaks road vibes. I use this for interstate cruising at speed limit cruising. The other setting I think of as rally setting (we used to replace the rubber bushings of our Saab Turbos with Bronze when disabled the boost limiter) I harden up damping to just below wheel chatter, this can change with the road surface. I use this for twisties, in traffic and ton-up cruising.
During a long day I will switch between Buick and rally at gas stops, it only takes about 20 seconds. Rally always around/thru cities, rally at speed, Buick on crappy roads, Buick in rain, Buick on thick gravel and dirt, Buick on double track
I'm sure this needs more explanation, let me know what I didn't explain.
The top ***** on the legs are for rebound damping. There are 17 clicks between S and H, factory standard in 2000 was 8 down from max H.
The bottom **** on the back of the leg is for compression damping. 14 click positions, standard is 3 down from H.
Just for completeness, rear preload 3rd cam down from max
Rear rebound not adjustable
Rear compression, adjustor(top of the shock towards the front) turns with a small flat blade screwdriver, 10 click stops, factory standard 3 down from H
I do a big adjustment between 1up and 2up. I never pay any attention to the factory settings, I set them and test drive until I get how I want.
When 1up I use 2 different settings- one I think of as Buick - I soften everything but the preload up. It adds some brake dive but soaks road vibes. I use this for interstate cruising at speed limit cruising. The other setting I think of as rally setting (we used to replace the rubber bushings of our Saab Turbos with Bronze when disabled the boost limiter) I harden up damping to just below wheel chatter, this can change with the road surface. I use this for twisties, in traffic and ton-up cruising.
During a long day I will switch between Buick and rally at gas stops, it only takes about 20 seconds. Rally always around/thru cities, rally at speed, Buick on crappy roads, Buick in rain, Buick on thick gravel and dirt, Buick on double track
I'm sure this needs more explanation, let me know what I didn't explain.
Last edited by kokemill; 12-22-2013 at 12:51 AM. Reason: English as a first language
The following users liked this post:
Gordo-uk (11-04-2023)
#6
I don't have a vid, but I have an FXDX and an owners manual. I'll try to help. The first thing you need to do I'd adjust the preload on the front suspension. It is adjusted at the top of the tube by undoing the lock nut and tightening or loosening the compression. Note in the manual warns to make them equal, I think by counting threads. Standard is 4 visible
The top ***** on the legs are for rebound damping. There are 17 clicks between S and H, factory standard in 2000 was 8 down from max H.
The bottom **** on the back of the leg is for compression damping. 14 click positions, standard is 3 down from H.
Just for completeness, rear preload 3rd cam down from max
Rear rebound not adjustable
Rear compression, adjustor(top of the shock towards the front) turns with a small flat blade screwdriver, 10 click stops, factory standard 3 down from H
I do a big adjustment between 1up and 2up. I never pay any attention to the factory settings, I set them and test drive until I get how I want.
When 1up I use 2 different settings- one I think of as Buick - I soften everything but the preload up. It adds some brake dive but soaks road vibes. I use this for interstate cruising at speed limit cruising. The other setting I think of as rally setting (we used to replace the rubber bushings of our Saab Turbos with Bronze when disabled the boost limiter) I harden up damping to just below wheel chatter, this can change with the road surface. I use this for twisties, in traffic and ton-up cruising.
During a long day I will switch between Buick and rally at gas stops, it only takes about 20 seconds. Rally always around/thru cities, rally at speed, Buick on crappy roads, Buick in rain, Buick on thick gravel and dirt, Buick on double track
I'm sure this needs more explanation, let me know what I didn't explain.
The top ***** on the legs are for rebound damping. There are 17 clicks between S and H, factory standard in 2000 was 8 down from max H.
The bottom **** on the back of the leg is for compression damping. 14 click positions, standard is 3 down from H.
Just for completeness, rear preload 3rd cam down from max
Rear rebound not adjustable
Rear compression, adjustor(top of the shock towards the front) turns with a small flat blade screwdriver, 10 click stops, factory standard 3 down from H
I do a big adjustment between 1up and 2up. I never pay any attention to the factory settings, I set them and test drive until I get how I want.
When 1up I use 2 different settings- one I think of as Buick - I soften everything but the preload up. It adds some brake dive but soaks road vibes. I use this for interstate cruising at speed limit cruising. The other setting I think of as rally setting (we used to replace the rubber bushings of our Saab Turbos with Bronze when disabled the boost limiter) I harden up damping to just below wheel chatter, this can change with the road surface. I use this for twisties, in traffic and ton-up cruising.
During a long day I will switch between Buick and rally at gas stops, it only takes about 20 seconds. Rally always around/thru cities, rally at speed, Buick on crappy roads, Buick in rain, Buick on thick gravel and dirt, Buick on double track
I'm sure this needs more explanation, let me know what I didn't explain.
#7
Only 2 out of 6 turbos
"We" only blew up 2, the first blew up racing a car with "chicken" on the hood, that was the original 98 turbo. The other blew up when "We" were driving south of woodfield mall on 53 near the the redline and we shifted from 5th to 6th on a 5 speed, 6th was marked R. The shift gate failed, the jack shaft broke in 2 pieces and exited the transmission up thru the engine. The hood looked like we had run over a landmine. The message I got was the car wouldn't start and there was oil on the windshield. It was a 900 turbo with 154,000 miles, Saab USA shipped the jack shaft back to Sweden and they said they had no press that could break the jack shaft, must be defective part(BIL is LEO, they collected all parts over 4 lanes for 2 miles). Saab covered all repairs including new engine and trans.
If you replaced the gas pedal and brake in our cars with a toggle switch my wife may not notice. I never let her follow me.
If you replaced the gas pedal and brake in our cars with a toggle switch my wife may not notice. I never let her follow me.
Last edited by kokemill; 12-22-2013 at 10:05 PM. Reason: It was 98
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#8
"We" only blew up 2, the first blew up racing a car with "chicken" on the hood, that was the original 99 turbo. The other blew up when "We" were driving south of woodfield mall on 53 near the the redline and we shifted from 5th to 6th on a 5 speed, 6th was marked R. The shift gate failed, the jack shaft broke in 2 pieces and exited the transmission up thru the engine. The hood looked like we had run over a landmine. The message I got was the car wouldn't start and there was oil on the windshield. It was a 900 turbo with 154,000 miles, Saab USA shipped the jack shaft back to Sweden and they said they had no press that could break the jack shaft, must be defective part(BIL is LEO, they collected all parts over 4 lanes for 2 miles). Saab covered all repairs including new engine and trans.
If you replaced the gas pedal and brake in our cars with a toggle switch my wife may not notice. I never let her follow me.
If you replaced the gas pedal and brake in our cars with a toggle switch my wife may not notice. I never let her follow me.
#9
HOPE THIS HELPS.
FRONT SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT
(FXDXT, 2000-ON FXDX)
Rebound Damping Force Adjustment
The rebound damping can be adjusted by turning
the **** adjuster on top of the fork cap bolt. The
**** adjuster has 17 positions.
The standard adjuster setting is eight turns out
from the base position. Turning the adjuster all the
way clockwise results in the stiffer setting, while
turning the adjuster counterclockwise results in the
softer setting.
1. Turn the **** adjuster (Figure 85) in either direction
to achieve the desired rebound damping.
2. Turning the adjuster clockwise will increase rebound
damping.
3. Turning the adjuster counterclockwise will decrease
rebound damping.
4. Repeat for the other fork assembly. Ensure both
fork legs are adjusted to the same setting.
Compression Damping Force Adjustment
The compression damping force can be adjusted
by turning the screw adjuster on the base of the fork
slider. The **** adjuster has 14 positions.
The standard adjuster setting is ten turns out from
the base position.
1. Turn the adjuster (Figure 86) and rotate it in either
direction to achieve the desired compression
damping force adjustment.
2. Turning the adjuster clockwise will increase
compression damping force.
3. Turning the adjuster counterclockwise will decrease
compression damping force.
4. Repeat for the other fork assembly. Ensure both
fork legs are adjusted to the same setting
-----FIGURE 85--------FIGURE 86
FRONT SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT
(FXDXT, 2000-ON FXDX)
Rebound Damping Force Adjustment
The rebound damping can be adjusted by turning
the **** adjuster on top of the fork cap bolt. The
**** adjuster has 17 positions.
The standard adjuster setting is eight turns out
from the base position. Turning the adjuster all the
way clockwise results in the stiffer setting, while
turning the adjuster counterclockwise results in the
softer setting.
1. Turn the **** adjuster (Figure 85) in either direction
to achieve the desired rebound damping.
2. Turning the adjuster clockwise will increase rebound
damping.
3. Turning the adjuster counterclockwise will decrease
rebound damping.
4. Repeat for the other fork assembly. Ensure both
fork legs are adjusted to the same setting.
Compression Damping Force Adjustment
The compression damping force can be adjusted
by turning the screw adjuster on the base of the fork
slider. The **** adjuster has 14 positions.
The standard adjuster setting is ten turns out from
the base position.
1. Turn the adjuster (Figure 86) and rotate it in either
direction to achieve the desired compression
damping force adjustment.
2. Turning the adjuster clockwise will increase
compression damping force.
3. Turning the adjuster counterclockwise will decrease
compression damping force.
4. Repeat for the other fork assembly. Ensure both
fork legs are adjusted to the same setting
-----FIGURE 85--------FIGURE 86
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Gordo-uk (11-04-2023)
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