Hi all,

My gf bought me the HD garage door opener for Christmas and I'm trying to install it. The instructions that come with the opener are not 100% clear as to which fuse they are calling the "open" fuse. The fuse diagram in the HD instructions does not look like my fuse block. The right hand block in the diagram has 3 x 3 fuse configuration but on the bike it's 4 x 3. So I'm not confident about which fuse they are referring to as being the "open" one.

I have a service manual as well and none of the fuses are marked as "open". I assume one of the two marked as "spare fuse" - fuses #7 and #8 would be a likely candidate. I also noticed that fuse #10 marked as "P and A ignition fuse" does not actually have a fuse in it on my bike. Not sure why not. I've pulled fuses #7 and #8 and they both look like they have metal leads in the slot so it makes me think they are wired back there as well.

I need help:

1. Figuring out which fuse slot to use to put the wire lead from the HD garage opener kit into. This is what the supplied 2a fuse will plug into.

2. Figuring out what I need to do to get the fuse panel assembly off the bike. I have taken the two top bolts off and the middle one out. I was able to pull the fuse box assembly away from the bike a couple inches but not far enough to see very well or get my hand back there.

3. Figuring out where to put the remote itself. The instructions say in the underseat area, but that area is pretty well jammed. They also say "away from heat source", so that leaves few other out-of-the-way places. Any ideas?

Also - I found this link regarding removing the fuse panel. I assume I need to do this (i.e. can't leave it all "hooked up" and just sneak the lead in there somehow)? http://www.hdtalking.com/dyna_models...k_removal.html


Thanks in advance.

 

You might try hooking up your opener to Fuse #9 or #12.
~

 

Hey, can you get me one of those diagrams but for a 05 Super Glide? I believe it's quite similar to the one you posted but I can't seem to find one. Thanks!

 

I have some in here:

***Dyna Models Wiring Diagram Links Index***

 

If you do not have a slot with an empty fuse, you have no opening and probably need one of the optional kits. Basically just a pig tail with a fuse holder for the 2 amp fuse for protection. The P&A is for a 2 amp fuse for an alarm. The signal light box uses a circuit and when switched out with the signal/alarm then uses two fuses. The P/A is the arming part of the alarm. It would be an opening but may be confusing to a service tech if you used it.

 

YOU ARE THE MAN! Thank you very much!

 

Do you have access to the 2012 CAN bus in the BOX? Need to do some education homework for the future.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...-location.html

 

Thanks Ripsaw, turns out i'm an idiot (bigger even than I thought). It took some doing, but I finally got the fuse box (electrical caddy) disassembled and as it turns out, the only open fuse is the P/A fuse. The idiot part is that the electrical caddy cover HAS A LABEL RIGHT ON THE INSIDE TELLING ME WHICH WAS THE OPEN FUSE!!! And, to make matters worse, the instructions indicate that the label is on the caddy. In my haste to start destroying things, I missed the part of the instructions that say "look on the inside of the caddy cover stupid".

So - going by the instructions that came with the opener, I'm going to use the P/A fuse. So far, I did (and plan to do) my own service for the routine stuff. If I need to take it to a dealer, I'll have to remember to let them know.

Ripsaw - was that 2012 CAN bus comment directed at me? I have a 2009 and don't know what you meant by it.

 

UPDATE:

Here's the long and short of the integrated garage door opener install.

1. I used the P&A fuse slot (marked as OPEN on the caddy cover). It was a PITA to get the electrical caddy disassembled but I eventually got it using these instructions. http://www.hdtalking.com/dyna_models...k_removal.html. I ran the orange fuse wire from the kit into the back of the open P&A fuse slot. Then I connected the orange wire from the garage door transmitter to the orange lead wire I just put in the fuse box.

2. I ran the black ground wire from the garage door transmitter to the uppermost ground post underneath the seat area. There are two ground posts and one has a black wire already going to it. It is the one (I think) that grounds the headlight wires so I used that for consistency. It probably would not matter which post you used as long as you get a good ground.

3. I ran the white wire from the garage door transmitter along the frame tube on the right hand side up to the headlight assembly. I had to remove the tank to get easy access to this path, but it may not be strictly necessary. The fuel crossover tube in the front underside of the tank prevents the gas tank from being lifted very high (4" or so?) above the frame. I chose to remove it altogether because I wanted to try to get a "close to stock" looking result. I pushed the OEM headlight wiring grommet through and into the headlight assembly and ran the white wire behind it into the assembly. I wrapped all the wires with a new grommet that I got from autozone which sealed the hole back up nicely. I spliced the white wire into the white wire in the headlight and buttoned it all back up.

Note: I used wire sheathing on all the wires involved so it looks good. The transmitter sits directly under the seat (along with my brakelight flasher). It is tight/cramped, but it works.

It took a long time and was more involved than I expected, but works like a charm and I'm happy with it. I know there are easier options but this one is good too, assuming you don't mind a little effort.