Cups/Raked Trees
#1
Cups/Raked Trees
From my research on the forums here, my understanding is that I'm better off running 3 degree cups vs. 3 degree trees, am I correct?
A little background, I have 2012 SB and I going to be installing a 23" front wheel. According to the wheel builder, I must have wide glide width trees. So I have read through WS6Formula's post/parts list as well as Bosken's. My understanding from their posts is that putting wide glide trees on my front forks in essence give it roughly extra 1 degree of rake over stock. But since I'm running such a big front wheel, I am thinking I may need to run 3 degree trees, or 3 degree cups in the stock wide glide trees in order to keep the bike's proportions looking nice.
So back to the original question, buy wide glide trees and a 3 degree cups for it, or just purchase 3 degree trees. Suggestions please? Thank you in advance.
A little background, I have 2012 SB and I going to be installing a 23" front wheel. According to the wheel builder, I must have wide glide width trees. So I have read through WS6Formula's post/parts list as well as Bosken's. My understanding from their posts is that putting wide glide trees on my front forks in essence give it roughly extra 1 degree of rake over stock. But since I'm running such a big front wheel, I am thinking I may need to run 3 degree trees, or 3 degree cups in the stock wide glide trees in order to keep the bike's proportions looking nice.
So back to the original question, buy wide glide trees and a 3 degree cups for it, or just purchase 3 degree trees. Suggestions please? Thank you in advance.
#2
I'm curious to hear the responses to this. I have heard the WG trees are 2° and I have heard they are 3°. Now this post is saying they are 1°.
When you look up the Harley fiche files the street bob frame says it is 29° w/ref#7 & 14. 7 is the clip wire strap and 14 is the bearing cup steering head.
The wide glide frame says it is 34° w/ref#7 & 14. Again 7 is the clip wire strap and 14 is the bearing cup steering head.
That made me think for a minute that the frames are the same and all that is different is the bearing cup & the trees and that is how the wide glide achieves its 34° of rake.
The problem is the part number for the bearing cup steering head is the same for both bikes. That makes me think that the actual frames are different and makes me question whether or not there is any rake built into the wide glide trees at all.
Im still very early into my research of this so I don't have any true answers at this point but I am buying fat bob trees and will be measuring the difference between my bike with the stock WG trees and the fat bob trees.
Sorry was kind of thinking out loud but if we can get these questions answered I think it will make your plan of attack easier.
When you look up the Harley fiche files the street bob frame says it is 29° w/ref#7 & 14. 7 is the clip wire strap and 14 is the bearing cup steering head.
The wide glide frame says it is 34° w/ref#7 & 14. Again 7 is the clip wire strap and 14 is the bearing cup steering head.
That made me think for a minute that the frames are the same and all that is different is the bearing cup & the trees and that is how the wide glide achieves its 34° of rake.
The problem is the part number for the bearing cup steering head is the same for both bikes. That makes me think that the actual frames are different and makes me question whether or not there is any rake built into the wide glide trees at all.
Im still very early into my research of this so I don't have any true answers at this point but I am buying fat bob trees and will be measuring the difference between my bike with the stock WG trees and the fat bob trees.
Sorry was kind of thinking out loud but if we can get these questions answered I think it will make your plan of attack easier.
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hello, I have an 08 fxdc that has 23" front wheel. First, I did the 21x3.25 with an 18x5.5 in the back. did the raked cup set from Vulcan. This setup the rear looked so damn big the front looked dwarfed to me. Second, go around I put a 23" Rc componets up front, liked it, but then I had to have a matching rear, so now I have a 17x6 on the back to match the front. Third, go around, now that I have settled on this wheel combination the tree issue has nagged at me. The raked cup setup is ok, a cheap way to push the wheel out. The 23" will need the extra room, and these cups will do it. The downside to the cups is that they spread the distance between the trees. It makes the stock headlight seem miniscule. The cup also tend to move around in the bottom of your neck, if you let the front end tilt too hard one way or the other it knocks bottom cup out of place. Never noticed any ill effects from the cups being out of alignment, but as soon as I noticed always tapped back into place. The cups also spread the trees so wide that the bottom tree will no longer be close enough for the neck lock pin to work.
So now I have chosen to do the 5 degree trees with the 23", swapping the cups out for 3 degree trees would be ok, but kick the front end out a tad more.
The raked cup set can be the cheap way to accomplish your goal, but after wasting my money on this road, I think trees are the way to go. The stock wideglide tree is only 1 degree, the wideglide has 34 degree rake in the frame, our dynas only have 29 degrees.
Pick you an aftermarket tree with at least 3 degree, and the 23" will work.
No pics of mine, sorry for all the info and no proof.
So now I have chosen to do the 5 degree trees with the 23", swapping the cups out for 3 degree trees would be ok, but kick the front end out a tad more.
The raked cup set can be the cheap way to accomplish your goal, but after wasting my money on this road, I think trees are the way to go. The stock wideglide tree is only 1 degree, the wideglide has 34 degree rake in the frame, our dynas only have 29 degrees.
Pick you an aftermarket tree with at least 3 degree, and the 23" will work.
No pics of mine, sorry for all the info and no proof.
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