Can someone give me the pros and cons of preload adjusters on a 08 streetbob. Thanks for any info

 

They look cool and make it easier to fine tune your sag. Normally to get your sag set just right you would have to cut, or get longer spacers depending on your weight. This might involve repeatedly removing and cutting and installing until you get it just right. However, once you get it right then there shouldn't be any reason to ever do it again. The adjusters just take most of the hassle out of it. They are also good to have if you ever want to lower the front end. But overall they just look cool and make sag setting easier.

 

My 1200S has cartridge forks with adjustable preload, compression & rebound. Once the 'rider sag' is set, that's the last time you screw with them.

RSD = BFD

 

Pros: preloaders are useful, easy to install, usually only require a small wrench to adjust. One con: cost - a pair will run well over $100, so it's not something you would do on the spur of the moment. I have the RSD set and am more than satisfied with the looks and performance.
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Pretty much sums it up. If your setting up your front end it will save you from taking it apart and putting it back together a few times but like others have said, once you get it right, no reason to play with it.

I myself can't see spending 140 bucks on them. They are way overpriced for what they are and I've gotten pretty fast at tearing into my forks.

 

Given that this is about preload adjusters, anyone have a link to a sticky about what preload is, how you set it and why. I will bet that probably more than 50% here on this forum have never checked much less adjusted their front preload.

Oh, edjack! Now if you really want to make a significant and meaningful contribution to your front end, buy some Ricor Intimidators. The object is to 'imitate' the feel and function of a cartridge type fork.

 

Preload as it pertains to sag is a pretty simple concept. As an example, if you had 6 inches of total suspension travel, you want to set your sag to 3 inches. That means your body weight and normal riding gear should compress the front forks to half of it available travel. That way you will have 3 inches up travel (compression) and 3 inches down travel (extension) for your suspension to work with. The springs in our forks have to handle all kinds of different loads depending on rider weight and gear. If you had a 400lbs rider sitting on the bike then he would compress the suspension more than a 200lbs rider. And due to that, the 400lbs rider would have less compression distance before the forks bottomed out. But through setting sag (preload) and possibly heavier duty springs, he could get his forks to sit in the middle and gain back his 3 up and 3 down suspension travel.

 

Yep. Well done.

Does HD have a spec measurement for static sag?

 

Good question. Im not really sure. Im one of the lazy people that understands the basic concept of setting sag but never actually but in the work to check it or set it. lol. My 450 dirt bike was dialed in. My Fat Bob is a big heavy pig but it does what I want it to and I just don't spend a lot of time thinking about the 20+ year old suspension technology or how to improve it. If I start thinking about it I'll just end up with a $5000 USD fork set up that I really have no use for. And if I decide I DO need that kind of performance then I'll just get another sport bike or supermoto.

 

Thanks and oh yeah, I both agree and completely understand!

Interesting for me because I recently bought a salvage title bike that had the front fork tubes buckled. I have just bolted up the new fork tubes for a test fit and well, set up and dial in doesn't look to be too far away.

I'm going to measure both my static sag and rider sag and see if my spring rate (lbs/in) is correct for me. Springs are not real expensive to get right.