Well after a really bad experience with a local body shop, I decided to do my own paint work. No, not the primer black kind either. I like my paint to be glossy and perfect. If you wanna read about what happened and look at previous pics of the garbage work a guy did for me look here.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...k-anymore.html

This is the process I followed, plus I finished compound with Meguiars Ultimate Compound by wax pad, and Meguiars Carnauba wax by pad. I also prepped the Dougz chin fairing in adhesion promoter about 10 mins before I shot the primer on.

1. Sand the part down with 180-220 grit sand paper. Spot fill any deep scratches with filler putty if they're too deep to fill with primer (this is most deep scratches btw). Sand again if you have to fill any scratches.

2. Spray 2-3 coats of primer in light coats. You can spray more coats if you like. If you choose to spray more coats than this, wait five minutes between every 2-3 coats to let the paint flash.

3. Wait at least a day or two, and then wet sand with 600 grit with a soft backer pad. You can use your hands as well, but a pad is best - be very careful at all edges with 600 grit, it will grind through a coat of paint easily. Apply only the lightest pressure here. Use a light soapy solution when wet sanding and never let the sandpaper get dry while rubbing. Rinse the part periodically while wet sanding.

4. Wash with light soapy solution and rinse, then let dry thoroughly. Some tack cloth would be a good idea just before the next coat, or wipe down with a lint free cloth just before spraying.

5. Spray base coat, again 2-3 light coats. If you choose to spray more coats than this, wait five minutes between every 2-3 coats to let the paint flash. When spraying, be careful to get even coverage. Do not try to get a wet look – if you get a wet look you’re spraying too heavy and you will get runs! Don’t worry if it looks like crap right now. The key is to get uniform coverage only. Wait at least a day or two again before proceeding.

6. Wet sand the base coat – you can start with a very light pass with 600 grit (a pass over the entire area is enough. Avoid edges), then hit it with a few passes of 1000 grit. You can skip the 600 grit here if you want to avoid the risk of sanding through at edges. I actually did a light pass with 600 grit and two full passes over the whole fender with the 1000 grit. Still want to be careful at all edges, use barely any pressure at edges.

7. Wash with light soapy solution and rinse, then let dry thoroughly. Some tack cloth would be a good idea just before the next coat, or wipe down with a lint free cloth just before spraying.

8. Spray clear coat, as always 2-3 light coats. If you choose to spray more coats than this, wait five minutes between every 2-3 coats to let the paint flash. Be extra careful with the coats as it’s very easy to get runs with clear coat! Don’t worry, it will still look like crap at this stage. Wait at least a day or two again before proceeding (more the better).

9. Wet sand the clear first with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit, and finally with 2000 grit. 2 passes over the entire part for each stage.

10. Rub: Run 3-4 passes over the whole part with rubbing compound.

10. Polish: Run 3-4 passes over the whole part with polishing compound.

11. Wax with your favorite choice of wax.

You’re done! You should end up with a mirror finish shine as good as or better than any factory paint job!

 

Products I used are as follows.

I decided to go with the following products.

Dupli Color Adhesion Promoter Pt# CP199

Dupli Color Perfect Match Gray Filler Primer Pt# BPR0031 ( I would prefer Black Primer here, but wanted to stick with the Perfect Match Line of Products to ensure compatibility)

Dupli Color Perfect Match Universal Black Pt# BUN0100

Dupli Color Perfect Match Clear Top Coat Pt# BCL0125

I also bought 15 sheets of 3m sandpaper in 1000,1500,2000 grit in addition to the 220 and 400 that I already prepped for primer with.

Total was about $50 bux in supplies so far, and I already have the Megiaurs ultimate compound, and finishing waxes I like to use.

 

and a message to the body shop that did the crap work I had to spend hours removing.

 

These pics are taken under a flo light, so that you can see absolutely every detail possible. The pics dont do it justice, but I think you can see the results.

Here is an abbreviated version of how I ended up with these results.

I started off with a light coat of adhesion promoter, followed by 6 coats of primer, wet sanded with 1k 24 hrs later, 6 coats of base color, wet sanded with 1k 24hrs later, found a few spots that got thin so i resprayed 6 coats of base, wet sanded 24hrs later, then shot the clear tonight, I ended up with about 8 coats of clear on this part (I get carried away when wet sanding) The last 2 coats were heavy coats, that I tries to use to allow the clear to lay down nicely. All coats of product were sprayed with 2 min flash times in between coats, after 3 coats I allowed 10 mins flash time, then back to 2 min flash times.

 

Good job. My brother and I would like to do some work to his tank.

I would recommend that you hold off on waxing until it has fully cured though.

The compounds and glazes let the paint "breath" whereas the wax usually doesn't.

 

Thanks for the compliment, I waited 48 hrs after the clear was laid down before compounding and waxing. The primer has been on the part for about 5 days, the base 3, and clear 2 days. The manufacturer states 24-48 hrs depending on conditions, My air temp, humidity levels were ideal and I still waited the 48 hrs as they noted.

 

nice job

 

Holy crap! I just read your other post on the crappy job you had done by the so-called professional. What a joke... Based on how that chin spoiler came out you just did, you should just do it all yourself! That looks great!

 

I been painting for 30+ years .. looks like you have done a great job painting your parts .... Just be aware that rattle can paint jobs are nowhere near as durable as 2 pak paint work or powder coating , is marks heaps easier has not got strong UV properties in the clear which will make it fade in weather ...

 

Thank You, I laid the primer down on the underside of the front fender last night. The humidity was too high today to proceed any further so I will have to wait until the humidity drops to continue. I will be painting it all myself.

I appreciate the feedback and am aware of the UV properties of both activated paints and rattle can. Thank You for the compliment and information, I do keep my bikes clean,garaged and waxed so I will probably get more life out of this paint than the average guy.

More pics to come, as I make progress.