Any tips on putting back tire back on??
#1
Any tips on putting back tire back on??
I removed the back tire with out a problem and now im having a little problem putting it back. The main problem is the brake caliper. Ive seen some videos where the caliper just slides in and out of the mounting slot with easy but mine does not and gets caught up on the rubber piece in the center space. I can only slide about half of it and there is space left between the caliper space and mount. is there suppose to be space or is it suppose to be flush? thanks
#4
#5
#6
#7
I'll try to add to what I did to reinstall my rear wheel, with a new tire and new brake pads. Install the brake caliper mounting arm until it lines up with the axle hole. You have to have the wheel and tire semi in place as they will not pass by the caliper mount with it in the correct place. You Jack needs to be low enough the you do not have to lift the wheel to do this. I have the jack low enough so that the wheel only has to be lifted about an inch or so anyway.
Next put a 3/4" dowel or broken piece of broom or mop handle into the right side of the axle hole and slide it through the swingarm, tension adjuster, caliper arm, spacer, wheel, left spacer, left tension adjuster and left swingarm. You should now have the wheel pretty much in place being held with the wooden dowel.
Now take the caliper and place it on top of the rotor in alignment with the mounting arm. Lightly tap on the caliper to make it slide down onto the rotor. Once on the rotor , lightly tap it forward so the caliper engages into the mounting arm. Install the top right bolt first then wiggle the caliper until the bottom caliper bolt lines up with its hole. Install this caliper bolt but do not torque it down.
Now take your axle and coat it with antiseize starting at the threaded end. Do not put any on the threads and only apply to half of the length of the axle at this time. Now take the axle and start pushing the dowel rod out with the axle. You may have to wiggle the wheel a little with your foot to make the axle slide. When you reach the point on the axle where you have stopped applying antiseize, stop and coat the rest of the axle. Now slide the rest if the axle through until the dowel falls out and the axle is in place. Put the nut and washer on the axle but do not torque.
Raise the swingarm and mount the shocks but do not torque to spec. Adjust the belt tension. Reinstall belt guards. Tighten the brake caliper to spec. Tighten the shock bye to spec. Check belt tension again. If tension is ok, torque axle bolt and install keeper on the end of the axle.
Now what did I forget?
Next put a 3/4" dowel or broken piece of broom or mop handle into the right side of the axle hole and slide it through the swingarm, tension adjuster, caliper arm, spacer, wheel, left spacer, left tension adjuster and left swingarm. You should now have the wheel pretty much in place being held with the wooden dowel.
Now take the caliper and place it on top of the rotor in alignment with the mounting arm. Lightly tap on the caliper to make it slide down onto the rotor. Once on the rotor , lightly tap it forward so the caliper engages into the mounting arm. Install the top right bolt first then wiggle the caliper until the bottom caliper bolt lines up with its hole. Install this caliper bolt but do not torque it down.
Now take your axle and coat it with antiseize starting at the threaded end. Do not put any on the threads and only apply to half of the length of the axle at this time. Now take the axle and start pushing the dowel rod out with the axle. You may have to wiggle the wheel a little with your foot to make the axle slide. When you reach the point on the axle where you have stopped applying antiseize, stop and coat the rest of the axle. Now slide the rest if the axle through until the dowel falls out and the axle is in place. Put the nut and washer on the axle but do not torque.
Raise the swingarm and mount the shocks but do not torque to spec. Adjust the belt tension. Reinstall belt guards. Tighten the brake caliper to spec. Tighten the shock bye to spec. Check belt tension again. If tension is ok, torque axle bolt and install keeper on the end of the axle.
Now what did I forget?
Trending Topics
#8
Wow all I can say is the procedure for removing and replaceing my fatbob rear wheel is much less complicated. The first time I watched the HD tek dismount my wheel he did not romove any shocks or belt guards. he removed the brake pads and , the retaining clip, then the axle nut and axle and the wheel slid out in less than 5 minutes. And I have watched two guys do it exactly the same way.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
#10
Wow all I can say is the procedure for removing and replaceing my fatbob rear wheel is much less complicated. The first time I watched the HD tek dismount my wheel he did not romove any shocks or belt guards. he removed the brake pads and , the retaining clip, then the axle nut and axle and the wheel slid out in less than 5 minutes. And I have watched two guys do it exactly the same way.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post