DIY cheap stand or lift
#1
DIY cheap stand or lift
I've been using a sears red jack and it works fine. Blocks under the frame to allow clearance for the engine but I found this DIY stand online and decided to make one. I now like this more than the sears jack, it's faster and the bike doesn't budge and it doesn't take up any floor space for storage. I thought some of you may benefit from having a small easy to use way to get the bike centered or the wheel off the ground. Was going to put it in the under $50 thread but it's not a mod so wasn't sure it it fit in there
Supplies needed cost about $20
1 2x8 8ft long cut into three 30" lentghs.
Sheetrock or deck screws
3/4 cast iron pipe 30". Longer if you want
3/4 floor flange
Screw the three 30" pieces together
Drill a hole for the pipe, I used a 1" hole bit but the pipe was tight. I wanted a tight fit
With a larger bit or chisel, remove area so flange lip can sit inside the hole and almost flush
Screw pipe into hole, pipe wrench needed unless you drill a larger hole.
When the pipes out enough screw the flange on, only screws on one way, get it tight into wood and attach it with screws.
Finish tightening pipe
I then marked and chiseled out room for it to lift by the frame and allow engine clearance. I also attached some rubber to keep it from messing up the frames finish. Depending on your bikes height you may need to add a thin piece or wood to the bottom to increase the height. I put a small thin piece or plywood on the floor under it when I'm lifting
Slides under on the bike holding it upright with one hand you get it where you want and just push backwards while holding the bike . It's very sturdy. After you put it up and down a few times it's easy.
Supplies needed cost about $20
1 2x8 8ft long cut into three 30" lentghs.
Sheetrock or deck screws
3/4 cast iron pipe 30". Longer if you want
3/4 floor flange
Screw the three 30" pieces together
Drill a hole for the pipe, I used a 1" hole bit but the pipe was tight. I wanted a tight fit
With a larger bit or chisel, remove area so flange lip can sit inside the hole and almost flush
Screw pipe into hole, pipe wrench needed unless you drill a larger hole.
When the pipes out enough screw the flange on, only screws on one way, get it tight into wood and attach it with screws.
Finish tightening pipe
I then marked and chiseled out room for it to lift by the frame and allow engine clearance. I also attached some rubber to keep it from messing up the frames finish. Depending on your bikes height you may need to add a thin piece or wood to the bottom to increase the height. I put a small thin piece or plywood on the floor under it when I'm lifting
Slides under on the bike holding it upright with one hand you get it where you want and just push backwards while holding the bike . It's very sturdy. After you put it up and down a few times it's easy.
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I will post a pic of the bike on it over the next couple days. It's very sturdy I doubted it would be before I built it. I read you can put eye bolts in for a tie down but I don't think it's needed it doesn't feel tippy like on the jack. I was going to try and throw casters on it but haven't figured out a good way yet.
As far as lifting the front I haven't tried but there's no reason it wouldn't work. Might need an extra piece of wood to raise the height a little but it would vary based on frame. If the notch is in the way you could just flip it over.
Honestly for $20 it's quicker and easier than the jack and even leaves me enough room to get to the engine drain bolt. Only thing I miss about the craftsman is the wheels
As far as lifting the front I haven't tried but there's no reason it wouldn't work. Might need an extra piece of wood to raise the height a little but it would vary based on frame. If the notch is in the way you could just flip it over.
Honestly for $20 it's quicker and easier than the jack and even leaves me enough room to get to the engine drain bolt. Only thing I miss about the craftsman is the wheels
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#9
Built one had more t-posts around here than pipe so thats my lever. I used it to change fluids then tires on my 1200c. Recently bought a clearenced kobalt jack. To be honest for a stand and one wheel up the lumber one is great. But of course if you want to get you bike actually up one needs the right tool.
Always strap you bike down. In the very least. Its much easier than picking your bike up.
Always strap you bike down. In the very least. Its much easier than picking your bike up.
#10
Depends on your frame height you slide it under the frame then lift the bike off the side stand. Hold the handlebar with your left hand then push the pipe backwards. When it touches the frame (where I have the rubber) it begins lifting. It will hold the bike upright too as soon as you make contact with the frame but I don't let go until it's up all the way. The whole bike will move backwards a little and then rest on top of the wood. For my fxdl 8" gets it just off the ground. The back tire skims so I added a little piece or plywood on the floor for extra clearance so I could do the alignment. If your bike is lower you won't need it. I'll probably attach a piece of plywood at some point to get the extra 1/4 of height I need. If I could find a good way to do casters I would probably park it on here all the time.