Boring out hub on 13 spoke wheel
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Axle hole is not even half hour work, bearing pockets should be less than 2 hrs.
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Thanks for the tips and recommendations.
I had a 2007 sportster rear wheel with 1" bearings and sleeve so I yanked them out and they look to match up with the 2001 FXDX-T rear wheel I have for the bearing bores so it would just be the place for the sleeve.
from what I can tell, there is only 1/16 difference in the offset between the sportster wheel and the dyna wheel. doesn't seem like much but it would help center the wheel slightly better as it looked like the sportster wheel was offset 3/16 of an inch. not sure all this work is worth it. any thoughts or experience on this would be welcome as well.
I had a 2007 sportster rear wheel with 1" bearings and sleeve so I yanked them out and they look to match up with the 2001 FXDX-T rear wheel I have for the bearing bores so it would just be the place for the sleeve.
from what I can tell, there is only 1/16 difference in the offset between the sportster wheel and the dyna wheel. doesn't seem like much but it would help center the wheel slightly better as it looked like the sportster wheel was offset 3/16 of an inch. not sure all this work is worth it. any thoughts or experience on this would be welcome as well.
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Thanks oaktown. I've already got the 2001 fxdxt rear wheel so it looks like I should just bore it out. what was your experience with sportster wheels and What was the offset that you observed? My new Michelin commander II comes in today and I'd like to get it mounted. Still waiting on my front axle spacers. My friend has been slammed at work and hasn't had time to make them.
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Not sure of the exact measurements for the sportys but you have the rear whelk that's great just get a front wheel from any 2000-2005 if you snag an 05 wheel it's one inch already. But anyway take your wheels if they are 3/4" go to harley snag a rear bearing sleeve from an 06 fxd get another front sleeve from a 2005 Fxdx they both are for 1" axles now your saying ok but I have 25mm axles? Doesn't matter harley never changed the inside diameter of sleeves or outer axle spacers rear brake caliper mount etc. if you have had or do have your stock wheels off pit your finger inside and feel the lip of the bearing to the sleeve you will see what I mean but I had the stock 25mm sleeve out and it was exactly the same id as the one inch stuff. So now that Axle sleeves are covered now you need bearings so you need 25x52x21mm that's a double row bearing 25mm Id 52mm od 21mm thick. For the rear wheel you use the same spacers that are on the bike hub is same width. For the front you need brand new outer spacers get 1"id x 1 1/8" width get em from Vulcan they are like $10 each install the front wheel as you normally would stick a 7/16" drill bit in the axle hole torque the axle nut then the axle cap. Obviously you need to space the calipers inward I used stainless steel washers for now until my buddy with his water jet can make me some nice one piece spacers that Match the line of the caliper mounts on the forks. Get a 11/16 master cylinder from a Fxdx don't worry that those use dot 5 you can use dot four in it since that's what the brembos need (if that's what your running) if you get a used master cylinder just flush it with new dot four just set it up fill it and pump it out into a pan. Use a brake line for a fxdf if you have 10-12" bars you need a plus 8. As for fxdf lower that's cake you can get em from harley for $150 already black costs about $130 to have the dealer swap em put a new seal and new fluid.(that's off the bike just bring in the one fork) As far as the fender mount goes just mount the fender like you would the bottom bolt on the right side will not line up just mount the fender securely and drill that sucker out. I forgot to mention get the sleeves and drill the wheels yourself it's just aluminum get a big enough unibit drill it slowly checking if the sleeve will fit through every so often while drilling obviously keep the drill as straight as possible it took me about five minutes a wheel and a cordless 18v it's not difficult whatsoever. Once the wheel is on and torqued the sleeve doesn't spin anyway neither does the inside part of the bearing. There is no need for a machine shop for any of this. Just make sure you use new rotor bolts and pulley bolts use blue lock right on everything and torque everything to spec.
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loseranacummins
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12-03-2013 12:55 PM