Adjusting shifter throw/travel?
#1
Adjusting shifter throw/travel?
I just put Kuryakyn forward controls on my FXDC. No issues with the install and everything is good.
I am having a hard time getting the toe shifter in the right spot to allow up shifting without having to make a big leg lift to off the peg to hit the shifter up until it shifts.
I have adjusted the shifter on the pawls. I have adjusted the linkage length to tweak the position of the shifter as well.
Right now, I can easily get my boot under the shifter so it's just about kissing the top of my boot while cruising but not putting tension on it. The natural angle of my foot on the forwards is taking away the amount of ankle bend/upward flex that I can use to actuate the shifter.
With the mids, your foot is oriented in a toe down position, but with forwards, your toe is up. Its not comfortable to have a toe down position with forwards at all.
Is there a way to reduce the amount of travel or throw to make the shift?
It seems as though I have no more available range of motion upward to make the shift so I have to yank up my whole damn foot. It's driving me nuts. I tried lowering the shift on the pawls but then I can't even get my foot under it without going into a contortion.
HELP.
I am having a hard time getting the toe shifter in the right spot to allow up shifting without having to make a big leg lift to off the peg to hit the shifter up until it shifts.
I have adjusted the shifter on the pawls. I have adjusted the linkage length to tweak the position of the shifter as well.
Right now, I can easily get my boot under the shifter so it's just about kissing the top of my boot while cruising but not putting tension on it. The natural angle of my foot on the forwards is taking away the amount of ankle bend/upward flex that I can use to actuate the shifter.
With the mids, your foot is oriented in a toe down position, but with forwards, your toe is up. Its not comfortable to have a toe down position with forwards at all.
Is there a way to reduce the amount of travel or throw to make the shift?
It seems as though I have no more available range of motion upward to make the shift so I have to yank up my whole damn foot. It's driving me nuts. I tried lowering the shift on the pawls but then I can't even get my foot under it without going into a contortion.
HELP.
#2
I have never used anything but forward controls . Well not really I had Mids but that was in the late 60,s . You will get on to it yes I raise my foot a little to shift but I really don't know I do it anymore . All you can do is set the shifter toe pad just off your boot .
The movement will always be the same in length .
The movement will always be the same in length .
#4
Right now, I can easily get my boot under the shifter so it's just about kissing the top of my boot while cruising but not putting tension on it. The natural angle of my foot on the forwards is taking away the amount of ankle bend/upward flex that I can use to actuate the shifter.
#5
Greg, I have the same issue. I did the pawl adjustment this weekend because I was having trouble upshifting, especially 3rd. I have Kuryakyn 9063 with stirrups. I think I fixed the issue a little, for me I lowered the shifter down a few turns so there's less upward travel required. When I'm seated my foot doesn't hit the shifter unless I want it to so now I have to bend it down a little and slide it under. I haven't really found a comfortable position yet for the forwards and stirrups I had the up high so they were like forwards, but my legs cramp. Moving the stirrups down more lets me get a different shift angle. If you don't have them at all you'll probably have more adjustment room.
#6
Greg, I have the same issue. I did the pawl adjustment this weekend because I was having trouble upshifting, especially 3rd. I have Kuryakyn 9063 with stirrups. I think I fixed the issue a little, for me I lowered the shifter down a few turns so there's less upward travel required. When I'm seated my foot doesn't hit the shifter unless I want it to so now I have to bend it down a little and slide it under. I haven't really found a comfortable position yet for the forwards and stirrups I had the up high so they were like forwards, but my legs cramp. Moving the stirrups down more lets me get a different shift angle. If you don't have them at all you'll probably have more adjustment room.
I love the forwards but this is annoying the hell out of me. Every time I ride I am having to fool around with it. I wasn't sure if the amount of thread showing in the linkage had anything to do with the amount of throw.
#7
no, the linkage threads showing doesn't matter, you could have it all the way to one side or the other, if the same as mine has to be removed on one end to lengthen or shorten the rod which moves the shifter peg up and down in relation to the peg.
What you could do is look at the arm that it's connected to and check the angle it is at. You would want it as close to straight up and down as possible. I actually want to move mine, but it's pretty far down I'm not sure that I could get it back on if I take it off to move it, but I'm going to do it soon depending on how it shifts now after adjusting the pawl.
If you have the lever straight up and down you'll have the best leverage on it to shift. If it's off and too far forwards or backwards the angle of it will change the effort required to change gears. Make sense? i'll take a picture of mine if what I said doesn't make sense.
What you could do is look at the arm that it's connected to and check the angle it is at. You would want it as close to straight up and down as possible. I actually want to move mine, but it's pretty far down I'm not sure that I could get it back on if I take it off to move it, but I'm going to do it soon depending on how it shifts now after adjusting the pawl.
If you have the lever straight up and down you'll have the best leverage on it to shift. If it's off and too far forwards or backwards the angle of it will change the effort required to change gears. Make sense? i'll take a picture of mine if what I said doesn't make sense.
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#8
#9
Thanks for the input guys...
I ran out and moved my peg down one micro notch on the spline to lower it. Of course, 1/32" inch there equals A LOT at the peg. My front linkage arm is pretty much at 90 degree right now. I just rode for an hour and up shifting is great, but I have to contort my foot under the peg to get it there.
I went and bought a square peg (instead of the round Kuryakyn one I have on there now). Playing with that peg's angle might do the trick coupled with a few turns on the linkage.
I will report back.
I ran out and moved my peg down one micro notch on the spline to lower it. Of course, 1/32" inch there equals A LOT at the peg. My front linkage arm is pretty much at 90 degree right now. I just rode for an hour and up shifting is great, but I have to contort my foot under the peg to get it there.
I went and bought a square peg (instead of the round Kuryakyn one I have on there now). Playing with that peg's angle might do the trick coupled with a few turns on the linkage.
I will report back.