Changed my primary oil and adjusted my clutch two days ago. Left the bike sitting on the jack for a while and just moved it to the driveway yesterday. When I started the bike this morning the clutch was sticking, meaning if I put the bike in first gear it takes off. I pulled the primary cover edit (inspection cover, not the primary cover), drained the fluid to look for anything odd. Did not see anything in the oil so I readjusted the clutch and cable and still the clutch sticks. When I engage the clutch with the inspection cover removed it appears that one side of the plates are sticking together, meaning one side of the clutch pulls against the springs, the other side does not seem to move much, like the plates are sticking together.

Any idea on a cause or a solution to this problem? Any help would be appreciated. Added info, I also could have sworn I saw a loose piece of metal in the spring, but I was rushed so it might have been my imagination. I could not find it again so I thought I might have just been seeing things.

 

I would run it around for a few miles to allow the clean fluid to wash through the plates allowing for a good flushing to take place. When you say it takes off, you mean without releasing the clutch into the friction zone? Its like your already in the friction zone, correct? The clutch pack allen screw adjustment is important or it will not release engagement properly. In other words it will be partially engaged. Can you describe the way you adjusted it....

 

I adjusted it by loosening the lock nut loosening the adjuster. Turn the adjuster and until I felt a little resistance fact it off three quarters of a turn tighten the lug nut.

Yes by taking off I mean I do not have to release the clutch to go forward like the plates are sticking together

It is possible that I could have over filled the primary and then compound did that problem by parking at on a slant for a day. I drained the primary put new fluid in and I know its at the right level now I just eyeballed it to measure.

When I engage the clutch with the inspection cover removed I can see that only half the plates are putting pressure against the springs. So like I said it's almost like the plates are sticking together or something is in there stopping him from from opening.

I do not believe at this point I can safely ride the bike around the block even when I pull the clutch in the bike just keeps going and stalls out. Probably not real safe.

I had to leave it sitting because I have to go pick somebody up at the airport when I get back I think maybe I'll try and let it warm up

 

I should add I did loosen the cable before adjusting the clutch. All three times I adjusted it. As I mentioned, I had to leave the bike for a while to go to the airport. When I get back home this afternoon i wil adjust the clutch again, letit get good and warm and try it again. I just cant imagine too much oil on the clutch plates would cause the plates to stick this bad, but I could be wrong. After that I suppose the primary cover has to come off unless any has any other ideas.

 

I had something similar happen the first time that I adjusted my clutch and it turned out that I had not seated the retainer clip all the way. One little push on the edge of the clip with a screw driver, readjust the clutch, and I was good to go...

 

Also, if the clutch has some years or miles you could need new clutch plates. You can buy all new steel plates and fiber plates for about $110. Do not go back with stock plates.
I had clutch problems last month. The center Spring plate was falling apart. at 25,000 mi. Barnet or Energy One are good. Your loose pieces of metal could be the clutch plates falling apart.

 

Thanks, I will check out both of those ideas. Just going out to look at it again now

 

Im doing a 'honey do' project so I had to walk away from this page since this morning but am back. Ok so, if the bike feels like its already in gear even with the clutch lever in, it almost sounds like they are engaged which makes the adjustment at the clutch pack suspect. Let me see, when I adjust mine (cold) I turn the adjuster mid point on the cable all the way up clockwise till it wont go any further fully collapsing the clutch lever against the grip then keep it there. Then, after you remove the derby cover, you break the nut loose that holds the Allen head screw. Now, gently turn the Allen head screw in slowly till it just touches and can be felt moving the lever then stop. Try it a couple times till you are positive its on the sweet spot. Now,turn it away (out) from the resistance 1/2-3/4 turn. Hold it on that exact spot with the Allen wrench tightening the jam-nut clockwise making sure it doesn't move with the Allen wrench. Now go back to the mid point cable adjustment and turn it out (counter clockwise) watching the clutch lever move outward as your twisting. Stop when the cable end free play is somewhere around 1/8", I've gone a bit more slack. Squeeze the lever a couple times to set the ball ramp then I button everything up. This usually gives me an engaging point of 3/4" away from the lever pulled all the way to the grip. Oh, make sure the cable is not pulled tight by being too short (if you put apes etc).

 

Can you see the small piece of metal behind the spring? Silly question, but I do not see a tab like that in my manual on any part. It is in the spot where the clutch appears not to move out as far. Not a clue what it is or where it came from. Can I safely loosen the bolts to relieve some spring pressure without pulling the primary? If metal is floating around I will end up pulling the primary anyway

 

Mystery solved, I knew I knew how to adjust a clutch. The piece of metal appears to me to be the tooth from a gear. From the appearance of the broken edge I would guess it has been in there a while. Not good. Primary has to come off. Darn it. Suppose I am lucky it somehow got caught in the spring of the clutch.