I recently bought a used 2012 Fat Bob and the clutch lever has more than the 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play, probably 3 times as much or more. I read the service manual and it provides a whole procedure that includes opening the primary chaincase cover and so on.

With my bike at 6,000 miles, can I not just adjust the turn cable adjuster to lever free play spec and be done with it ?

 

I wouldn't. .you don't know if the clutch pack is adjusted properly you're asking for trouble if you do that. You can re-use the derby cover gasket if you're careful and make sure to use the right Torx bit for the cover screws, I believe T27. It's not that hard takes about a half hour start to finish including cleaning up after yourself. We'll walk you through it.

 

Clutch free play adjustment starts at the clutch push rod adjustment. You have to remove the derby cover and adjust the distance of the clutch push rod from the diaphram spring before you adjust the free play at the lever.

 

Listen to the above, adjust the clutch the proper way and you will get good results. Start at clutch then move to cable. I've reused the rubber derby gasket numerous times without leaks.

 

Adjust on a cold engine.

 

Do I have to drain any oil first ? Service manual does not mention draining anything before taking the cover off.

 

Sorry, here are the instructions

 

You don't have to drain any oil as long as you prop the bikee up to almost level. Level is also good as long as you can secure the bike so it won't tip over.

 

Put the jiffy stand on a 2x4 and no oil will come out. Copy or get the part of the manual that references the the tightening sequence on the derby cover. A 100 inch pounds on each of the T27 torx when re-installing.

You'll need an 11/16ths 60 degree offset box end and a 7/16ths allen. Park the bike in 5th or 6th gear (whichever is the highest) and don't do the adjustment until the bike is stone cold. I know the manual says turn the adjuster until it lightly touches the diaphragm spring I would amend that to until it starts to put pressure on the diaphragm spring. Then, back it out the 1/2 to full turn: I usually do a 1/2 turn as I hate notchy shifting. Tighten the 11/16ths nut while holding the rod still with the allen. Work the clutch lever to set the *****, 2 or 3 pulls will do it. (you may need to move the cable adjuster to do that).

A cheap alternative to a Snap on 11/16th 60 degree offset box end is one of those multi size dog bone wrenches from HF. They pivot away from the case and will allow for the allen to go thru to hold the adjuster.

Clean up the derby cover and gasket to make sure no oil provides a pathway to leak after re-assembly. Install T27 torx, tighten in sequence to 100 inch pounds. Adjust free play at the lever, move the rubber cover back over the adjuster and you're good.

I probably missed some stuff but it's 0530 and I haven't had all my coffee yet.

 

I always change the primary fluid at clutch adjustment time.
I just did last weekend and even though the primary oil was only six months old it was dirty.
Your inner bearing with appreciate it.
1 quart of 20/50 wt amsoil for me.
I reused the gaskets, no problem.