Ok first let me say that I was hit by a drunk driver a little over a year ago (which is why my bike has sat for a year), the air cover I had on it was toast, but the carb seemed absolutely untouched and perfect. I don't know if that accident could have messed something up or not.
That being said, I have a 2001 Dyna FXDXT. I had installed a K&N filter and Thunderheader on my bike and found it to be running badly. After a little digging I found out that the carb was actually leaking from the gaskets rotting out (bike had sat for about a year, prior). Well, I went on to buy (1) Carburetor Rebuild Kit - Harley CV Carburetor & (1) Harley Carb Premium Tuners Kit for the Twin Cam 88 1999-2006 from CV Performance. I rebuilt the carb and installed the 195 jet and the 46 idle jet (thinking the bike was running lean from the aftermarket intake and exhaust). The bike runs absolutely horrible now. In fact, it didn't run at all at first. I installed the float fuel valve from the kit, and found that it didn't allow the float to move freely at all. I also installed the cvp needle included in the kit and found it to be a MUCH different shape than the stock needle (did I order the wrong kit perhaps?). Once I switched back the float fuel valve to the stock one, the bike would finally fire and run, though not well. I tried adusting the air/fuel mixture per the included instructions and found that I could screw the EZ adjust ALL the way in and the bike would still run- it seemed to have no effect on it. So, I rode the bike around the block, and it ran worse and worse until it finally died. I pulled the plugs and they were jet black, and I mean JET black. Cleaned them, pulled the carb, installed the original 190 and 45 jets (since it seemed to be running extremely rich), and once again the bike fired and ran, but still nothing when I screwed the EZ adjust all the way in. After another ride around the block, the plugs still came out JET black, just like before. I also tried changing back to the stock needle, though I don't remember which groove it was set at when I took the carb apart (I either took the c-clip on the needle off or it fell off). I've tried it on almost every setting and it won't seem to run right or won’t run at all. I've literally had this carb off 19 times now and I am beyond discouraged. I'm wondering if I need to just scrap the whole thing and buy an S&S? If there are any "carb experts" out there, any advice is appreciated. I get the feeling that I am missing something huge since the plugs keep coming out so darn black, but I'm not finding it... Thanks in advance.

 

Buy a Mikuni 42 and be done with it or I have a stock carb off a 2002 FXDP which is the same if you want it for cheap. I need to double check when I get home to see fi I know where I stashed it. When I took it off the bike the bike was running fine it has stock jetting but we put a Mikuni on the bike.

 

I feel your frustration man, but here are things to check


-is the slide diaphragm ok, no pin holes or tears
-are the carb intake to heads gasket ok
-is the pilot jet installed right, see pic below
-has the carb been thoroughly cleaned
-is the oring on the air fuel mixture screw
-did you set the float height as per the manual, if not set right it can run rich or lean



c clip I believe is second notch from the top, the lower the notch the richer it will get and higher the notch the leaner it will be





your jetting doesn't seem far off , so something else is going on
Myself I bought a Mikuni HSR 42 and installed it right out of the box and bike runs great with nice throttle response

 

Robtarra39, thanks for the response and suggestions.I've looked at this thing for WAY too many hours, so that's exactly what I need!
In answer to your questions:
-I am 99% sure the slide diaphram is good- I've looked at it every time I take it apart, but I'll check again.
-Carb intake gasket is brand new- should be good, no signs of anythign unusual
-My pilot jet looks different than both of those pics (see pic). From what I can tell, it can only be installed one way, which makes me think it's the right way.
-The carb has been THOROUGHLY cleaned 3 times, and I mean very thoroughly
-O ring on the air fuel mixture screw is definitely in there, but the washer and o ring are so very small that I was going to try and pull them out just to be sure the o ring went in flat (I can see the washer fine, but it covers the o ring). I know the odds probably aren't high, but I was imagining the o ring ending up on it's side instead of flat.
-*The thing that stands out the most in your suggestions is the float height.. I have not touched that. In fact, I didn't even realize you should! Maybe it's possible that the accident or the float fuel valve from CV that didn't seem to fit right could've changed the float. I'll look in my haynes manual to see if it lists a setting for the float.. What's the likelihood that the float setting could be causing so many problems?

Has anyone run one of the cv performance needles in their cv carb? It seems like the stuff in their kits isn't really fitting into my carb right. I ordered the Carburetor Rebuild Kit - Harley CV Carburetor & Harley Carb Premium Tuners Kit for the Twin Cam 88 1999-2006. These should fit on a 2001 fxdxt, right? Thanks for the help, guys!

 

The pictures I attached are of the main jet emulsion tube, when you take it out there will be a silver jet like item that sits between the emulsion tube and the carb body, it prodrudes into the carb throat as seen in the new attached pic


your pic is of the pilot or slow jet

 

When you pull the carb off the bike, is the bowl full ??

If the float is not set right, and pouring gas into the motor, lean the bike the other direction. It should then pour out of the carb, if indeed it is flooding.

With having checked the carb so many times, I would start looking elsewhere.

Are you replacing the spark plugs throughout this issue ??

Checking spark ?? Weak spark possible due to bad plug boots, possible coil issue ??

I would start looking there. Or, find a carb that u could borrow. That would tell you right away.

 

Ok, last night I tore into it some more. I took out both cvp jets and replaced them with the jets that were originally in there (looks like the main jet is a 180, which seems strange bc according to my manual it should be a 190), and 45 idle jet. I got it running with the needle adjustment set at the fourth slot down from the top (tried the second slot and it wouldn't run). This is actually the best I've gotten it to run so far. I took it around the block twice and it was running better, but still not very good. Just before half throttle, the power gets very spotty almost like it's not getting gas at times, and same thing when I get up to high rpms in any gear- it's like the power is just giving out and it's stumbling. Checked plugs when I came back and they were still very black, though not AS black as before (this looked more normal, what I was seeing before was absolutely jet black). I also checked the float level last night- if it was off, it was HARDLY off at all. How sensitive is the setting of that? The tolerence in my book is like 1/2 mm, which is pretty hard to even see!

Robtarra39, I see what you are saying. The silver jet between the emulsion tube and carb wasn't coming out with the emulsion tube, but I did find it and pop it out last night to make sure it was installed correctly- it is.

Someone mentioned to me that if my needle has adjustable settings, that it means my carb had a dynojet kit installed. READ BELOW

"If the stock needle jet had an adjustable clip, then the carb probably had a dynojet kit installed. Stock HD needles are not adjustable. You need to remove the Dynojet parts (needle, needle jet, needle jet holder, and main jet.

The Dynojet parts are not compatable with the HD jets. The needle and the needle jet holder are not compatable with the HD or CVP parts. You will need to replace the needle jet and holder with stock parts (or CVP) for the CVP or HD needle to work with your set-up.

Many people have made that mistake."


Can anyone verify this? I've switched the needle, jets, emulsion tube, and float fuel valve all back to what was in there originally and that's how I got the better (tho not good) results I was talking about at the beginning.

 

My setup is as follows, and if your bike runs bad with this combo then something is wrong like, a Dynojet slide, ripped slide diaphragm, incorrect float height, or a bad vacuum fuel valve.

REPLACE that DYNOJUNK slide, NEEDLE, and Spring with stock parts. That stuff is garbage, and is your problem. Order a CVP stock replacement slide, spring, the CVP emulsion tube, and either their velocity needle or N65C needle, mine as well get the nice idle screw, and fuel screw, with packing kit as well. The carb will work properly after these parts are installed.

I would also like to say that if you cant get a CV carb running correctly I would HIGHLY recommend avoiding a Mikuni HSR42, because you need to master CV carb tuning before you ever try and tune a HSR carb. The HSR carb is a much better carb due to unlimited adjustments, and for the same reason will confuse someone that doesnt have a firm grasp on tuning carbs like the Keihin FCR or Mik HSR carbs.

Get a service manual, disassemble your carb, post pics, and let everyone guide you on the steps to take during assembly. The CV carbs are great carbs and run better than a poorly tuned HSR all day.

Screamin Eagle Air Intake,
S&S 510 Gear drive cams,
Thunderheader
Sea Level, High Humidity Levels, and Temds over 80f all the time.

45 Pilot,
195 Main
N65C Needle NO shims
Slide drilled to 5/64
Stock Slide Spring
3 Turns Out on fuel screw

 

You are correct dynajet parts only use dynajet jets, I tried Harley jets and were a different size

 

Buy the Mikuni HSR 42, I install a Mikuni on my old Sporster with lots of modifications to the motor and it ran great. I could never adjust the HD carburetor, gave up, and got Mikuni.