Success! I installed this kit and I have lights! Thanks Puggy for the info on the connectors, I ended up just using needle nose also. I think I ended up taking 3-4 hours myself. I did notice a few things and I'll share them here:
1. You have to cut the plug off the end of the existing turn signal lights to get the wires out of the stock bracket. The kit provides new plugs.
2. I had quite a time after removing the ignition switch. I followed the instructions on removing it (as shown on this YouTube video --
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-QBH1SFyzo) and it was in the fork-lock position (as the beginning of this video shows). Well this position wasn't conducive to getting that switch panel back on easily. So I decided to take a screwdriver and poke it down the hole to unlock it. Dumb move on my part ... if I would have watched the entire video I would have seen his ingenious tool. I ended up looking down the hole I had removed the ignition switch from and figured out that there were two places that actually moved in there ... one to lock forks and the other to switch electrical options (you can see two sets of paddles on the ignition shaft if you bother to look at it, like I didn't initially do). I can only figure that I had moved one place (the locking mechanism) and not the other (the electrical position). The video's tool would have saved me 30-45 minutes of anguish!
3. To thread the turn signal wires through the new bracket I had to cut off the heat wrap from the stock wires. To do this I took a box cutter and lightly cut the heat wrap, not enough to go through, just enough to score it like you would Plexiglas before breaking it. Once scored I just grabbed a wire end and pulled it out of the wrap. The kit provides new heat wrap (of course I found that after electrical taping my wires).
4. A long time ago I purchased a socket set that the ratchet has a hole in it for tightening nuts on long bolts where the end of the bolt goes way past the nut. I can't even remember what the kit was called or why I even bothered purchasing it. But today I used it ... it made tightening the nut that secures the bottom of the auxiliary light housing super easy. With that ratchet I was able to thread the wire through the lock washer, the nut and the hole in the ratchet and tighten the whole deal up easily.
5. I went and purchased some clear sealant for the turn signal bullet mount because I read somewhere else that a guy had maximal water leakage problems. Not sure if I sealed correctly, I'll update this thread later.
6. I couldn't find in the instructions where all four wires went on the new plug provided. I looked at the old plug prior to cutting it off and noted the 3 wire positions 1) Blue 2) Purple 3) Black. Of course once you run all the wires through there are four wires, the additional one is gray. I found in another forum that this gray wire indeed goes into the 4) position on the new plug.
7. Please note: The wiring in 6. above will cause the auxiliary lights to turn off when you go to hi-beams. I initially thought my wiring had gone awry but I went online and in another forum saw someone had done the same thing ... even if you have the aux light switch on, if you have the hi-beam switch on the aux lights turn off and their switch is no longer illuminated. I saw someone had mentioned another wiring option to have them on continually, I may look into that later. I'm just glad they are fully operational!
Installation of Custom Auxiliary Lighting Bracket Kit 69818-06
