Battery tested good at 12.3VDC. My dash voltmeter may have gone bad, but why am I still getting the low voltage code, i.e. 0562?

 

My last battery was 5 years old and going South. I was motoring it and pulling it for checks but it would still give a grunt most ever start till it turned 1/2 a turn. I carried it to a couple places that said it was good. You just were not lucky to get a shop with a reliable machine. A test needs to be done at full charge and 12.3 volts DC is only 50% charged.
Don't see were you have posted how old battery is or that you ever charged it like I explained in post 15 above.

 

I have charged it several times to a full charge on my battery charger. I bought this battery from Batteries Plus about 18 months ago.

 

If you are getting around 14V DC when the motor is running at speed, bike is charging fine. If you have 12.3 volts DC after sitting for 24 hours or so on a volt meter, the battery is junk.

 

Would the low battery cause my regulator to go bad too?

 

Ok, finally got some time to pull a few things apart on the bike.
I disconnected the battery from everything.
I unplugged the two wire connector from the regulator.
The stator was still connected so the plug I disconnected goes to ground and the battery.
I removed the Maxi fuse.
Using a volt-ohm meter I can put one lead in either socket on the cable connector that plugs into the output of the regulator and I have connectivity with ground on the bike.
Is this telling me anything important as to why the regulator keeps burning up?

 

Those two connections are + and -. Kind of thinking one is going to a frame ground with the regulator attachment to the frame. Only way to know for sure is take regulator away from frame. However, that is not a true test call-out.

Unplug the stator and see if any lead on it goes to frame ground. No real way to check regulator with out fancy equipment. Only check for it is running at base RPM (probably 2000RPM) with a load like lights and normal stock stuff on. Should be around 14.5 or so volts DC. NO AC with meter set to AC. Under 15 volt DC. Over 13 volts DC

 

Stator isn't grounded. The regulator is shot, again. That's the third reg in 3 weeks. I can't afford these $230 fuses.
I'm giving up on this and takin it to an indy to figure out.

 

Possibly.
First the battery. With battery out of bike, after a good full charge, check battery with voltmeter, wait 24 hours then check again. Do not hook it up to anything during that time. Then check voltage again. ( see https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...l#post13183687 )

As for the other question, that circuit goes to a number of places. First, are we talking just some connectivity, or a 0 ohm short to ground?
I would test again, but make sure Ignition switch is in off position. Then pull all the fuses and relays ( take a picture if you have to to help put them back ) and test again. Make sure also that none of the terminals that you disconnected from the battery are touching anything else.
Just a thought ... do you have anything hooked to the B+ terminal under the seat? That should also be disconnected and checked. If with all above disconnected you still get a 0 ohm short I would start tracing that wire from the regulator.

 

Ok, I went through it again tonight. I did find the wire from the regulator to the battery had been rubbing on something and was just barely breaking through to the bare wire. I wrapped it up with a couple layers of rubber and tape to hold it for a few weeks.
I checked the stator with the bike running and each leg was putting out voltage. I didn't measure exactly because it fell into the area on the AC meter that I had seen before so I just presumed it was good. The stator is not grounded.
The regulator according to the sticky on the top of the electrical page here on HDforums is bad. I put the black lead of the volt meter on the negative terminal of the battery and probed the plug on the regulator were the stator is supposed to plug in. Yeah, I get a voltage reading. I put it all back together again and started the bike up. The bike threw a code, U1097 but it started up ok and ran well. Voltmeter in the dash shows a little over 14 VDC. When I killed the motor but left the ignition on, the dash voltmeter settled down to just a little over 12VDC.
When I checked the codes I got a P0562 again.