Over my head. P0562 is low battery voltage. U1097 is the speedometer unable to transmit . Is that possible because of low voltage during the cranking? At 12VDC on the dash meter, either the meter is bad or your battery is dead. What does you hand meter say?

 

I would not worry about the speedometer code right now, could be just because of everything being disconnected. Clear when done and see if it comes back.

Did taping up the rubbed wire eliminate your ' continuity ' situation?
You may have found a problem, but it might not be the only problem.

Before I put a new regulator on I would be going over the tests again.
But running the bike with a known bad regulator is a bad idea.

How did the battery fair when tested the way suggested?
And as far as the stator, as I recall it should be about 18-20 volts AC at idle when tested between each of the three legs. It is necessary to check all of them, just as it is when testing it for shorts to ground.

 

This is really frustrating. The bike shows over 14VDC when running and "sometimes" at 12.4VDC with the motor off and ignition still on. Other times the dash volt meter goes down to about 11.5VDC. I measured the 10VDC passing through the regulator from the battery to the stator input pins. If the regulator is bad, why is it still producing over 14VDC?

 

Are you saying you think something is wrong with meter showing over 14VDC when running?

 

No, it's the intermittent low voltage and the presence of leak voltage.

 

I dropped the bike off at the local Indy. Hopefully he can resolve the problem. Should be a few weeks as he had several jobs lined up ahead of mine. At over 100,000 on the odometer, he said I've got my fun outa this bike.

 

The indy worked on my bike this past weekend. He couldn't find anything wrong with the charging system. The voltmeter in the dash is probably bad as it wouldn't drop to 0 when the bike was turned off. He ran the bike up so it was hot to see if that may be causing a problem with the regulator and stator as well as running the motor rpms up, but no errors.
There is a sticky at the top of the page here on the electrical stuff forum that shows you how to check for a bad regulator. The step of checking for voltage leak back to the stator input plug may not be a proper procedure for the later model regulators. My indy went and checked the regulators on several other similar bikes that were in his shop and they all presented the battery voltage at the stator input pins of the regulator. Apparently the old bridge rectifier with diodes is not the design anymore. Probably because the stator isn't grounded and leakage back to it doesn't matter.
Anyway, so with that, I have a couple of good regulators on the shelf here.

 

Thanks for the update.

I do not know the design of the Harley regulators, but I can tell you this:

I do NOT have Battery Voltage leaking back through my Cycle Electric regulator at the stator end!

I hope your problems have been solved and the bike provides you with many thousands of carefree miles.