A buddy used a Snap-On "jump box/boost box" to boost an 06 Road King with a low battery and now it won't turn over at all with the start button.

It turned over with the boost box hooked up but now it won't. The battery is now fully charged and there's 12V+ going INTO/OUT OF the "Start" and "Run/Stop" buttons at the bars as it should be.

Here's where it gets real weird...

The GREEN WIRE (at the solenoid) that's supposed to get 12V when you hit the "Start" button is now CONSTANTLY HOT with 12V (when pulled OFF of the starter). When you hook it to the starter and turn on the ignition the relay immediately CLICKS OUT and cuts the power to it... Like it's got a short somewhere?

I thought maybe over current from the Jump-Box may have fried a relay, causing it to stick open somewhere? But I've swapped EVERY single relay on it that I can find, as well as fuses. (2 under left side panel in fuse box, Large one under seat by battery and TSSM, and "System" relay under right side panel by ECM) with no changes.
Is there another relay somewhere I'm missing in this system?

What would/could be causing the GREEN WIRE to the solenoid to have a constant 12V when it shouldn't ?

BTW: When I jump the solenoid with a 12V jumper direct from battery the bike fires up fine.

Ideas or help please?

 

Keep it simple. Have you verified the starter switch isn't defective? I have seen them have all kinds of crazy resistance problems. With an ohmmeter the switch should be open (infinity) and have nearly no resistance when it's closed. I have seen them do some crazy things.

 

The kill switch gets power through the ignition fuse and when the switch is on it gives power to the start button. Start button sends power to the start relay coil and the TSSM provides the ground for the coil. The green wire to the start solenoid should not be hot unless the relay is pulled in. Pull the start relay and hook you DC voltmeter to slot 86 on the relay base and the other lead to ground. Turn Ignition on, kill switch on and hit the start button - you should see 12V. If not check the ignition fuse, if it's good pull it and check continuity of the gy wire on the Ignition fuse to the start relay slot 86. You should have continuity with the kill switch on and starter button pressed. If everything looks good the TSSM may be bad.
Good Luck

 

Tried to post these last night but had problems. The pictures are from the 2004 manual so I hope they are the same. One other thing have you checked for DTC's and cleared them?
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes

 

My vote is that the starter replay is toast. I think the starter relay and the brake light relay are the same type, and you can switch them out.

 

On the `06 FLTR, the black/red wire is the power wire into the relay coil, the tan/green wire is the ground wire that goes to the TSSM.

Unplug the starter relay.

Read voltage at starter relay socket:

Red voltmeter probe into the black/red wire terminal.
Black voltmeter probe into the tan/green wire terminal.

Turn ignition on, kill switch on, press start button, you should read system voltage.

If no voltage reading, leave the red probe in the black/red wire terminal, but touch the black voltmeter probe to ground and press start button, if you read voltage, the issue is somewhere in the tan/green wire, or the TSSM.

Unplug the TSSM and check continuity of the tan/green wire.

 

Just realized I posted FLTR instead of FLHR schematics.

If I'm understanding your post, with ignition off the green wire to the starter solenoid has 12V on it but will not operate the solenoid?

Dan89 posted good instructions above. Hope you let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the offer of assistance, as I'm sure you meant well. But seriously, did you READ what I posted above your reply?
Where I posted: " there's 12V+ going INTO/OUT OF the "Start" and "Run/Stop" buttons at the bars as it should be."

I've troubleshot every darn wire and chased power through the circuits with a VOM before posting.

 

It's fixed, and I'm a dumb-***.

I was re-tracing all my steps and looking at the relays/fuses up close I realized that in my late night frustration I'd somehow reinstalled the starter relay 1/2-row off, on the fuse box pins!
That sure explains having power in a place where it shouldn't and not where it should, uh? Hahaha...

Sometimes the simplest **** can really throw you a curve.

I'd swapped all the relays, checked all fuses (with a VOM) traced circuits, checked switches, everything. Almost!

Guys I thank you for your help and the KILLER tech info you shared. Thanks a bunch.

This all started with a botched tune load from a Power Vision and having to take it to have the ECM's frame re-loaded with a Tech-II and had me about ready to shoot myself.
All's well now.

Thanks again.

 

Thanks for the follow up.