I have an '03 SuperGlide and my voltage regulator went bad. It was sending too much voltage, so it kept eating batteries in about 1-2 months. I live on an island in the Caribbean, so getting parts is an issue for me. Finally got the new voltage regulator, installed it (had to guess at the wiring, as it didn't plug right in) and a new battery and it started right up, ran fine, my gauges started working again, thought it was fixed. Two days later, just a solenoid clicking. Took battery out and there was no acid in it. Thought it was defective, put a new one in and as soon as I connected the cables, the voltage regulator started smoking. Immediately disconnected it, of course. But now what? Shouldn't the power to the voltage regulator not get there unless the key is on?? What am I missing? I'm completely stumped. Any ideas?

 

Do you have a volt ohm AC/DC meter? Unhook the wires to the regulator coming from the stator and measure the resistance between them. Check all combinations. What is it? Now, check each one to frame ground. It should show no continuity.
What do you have? I am looking up some specks waiting for you to get back. If that is correct, I want you to check the AC voltage coming from the stator with it not hooked to regulator. Usually when you see smoke, it may already be a little late for your new regulator. (by the way, what did not match up?) Where on line can I look at what regulator you have?

I though I had your manual on my laptop (out of the country now) but I had the 03 Dyna. with a 32 amp system..Not sure what your is. My 04 Softail is the 32 amp
The 32 amp system.....14.3-14.7 DC coming to the battery at 3600 rpm. normal off voltage at battery after a run will be less and after a overnight set will be 12.7 DC or so/ Each leg coming from the stator not hooked to the regulator running at 2000 or so will be 32-40 AC. (this should be 3 test with 3 wires. With the bike off and disconnected from stator, the resistance across the three lead test should be 0.1-0.2 ohm

 

Stop...

OP:

You need service manual, and a wiring diagram, or better yet, someone to help you that knows what they are doing. I don`t mean to be rude, but it appears as if your experience with electrical systems is very limited.

Until you are certain that the regulator is connected properly, do not continue.

 

you have allowed the magic smoke to escape...it will never work again.

Get another regulator, battery, a manual with wiring diagrams, a multimeter, and some help.

 

http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J00584.pdf

Ripsaw and I were having a discussion a while back and I wrote this, read it and see if it helps. If anyone see's any mistakes let me know and I'll make corrections.



Harley Davidson Charging System description and testing:


Most of this information comes from the 2015 Electrical Diagnostic Manual for touring models. Check the manual for your year and model bike to obtain correct voltage, current and resistance values.






Description:
The charging system consists of 3 major parts:

1- An Alternator that generates single phase or three phase alternating current, (AC).
The Alternator has 2 parts:





Rotor:
Attached to the primary side of the crankshaft. The Rotor has a series of permanent magnets and rotates around the Stator at engine speed.

Stator:
Attached to the crank case and has a series of wound wire coils. The Rotor fits over the stationary stator. As the Rotor spins around the Stator the rotating magnetic fields induce Alternating Current in the stationary coils. The Stator’s coils are arraigned so the AC output is either single or three phase.

2- Voltage Regulator, (VR), rectifies the Alternating Current, (AC), from the Stator to Direct Current,(DC), and limits the voltage output to a value close to 14.5 V DC.

3- Battery, a 12V rechargeable storage device used to supply power to the bikes electrical circuits.

As shown in the schematic the charging system includes insulated conductors and connectors carrying current from the stator to the VR through the main fuse to the starter and on to the battery positive. The VR negative lead and the battery negative lead are both connected to Chassis ground.
This system can be checked with a few easy tests using a digital or analog Volt–Ohm Meter.


Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%

Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.

If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current, either disconnect the Battery Negative cable and install the meter or pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual, add the components on your bike to figure what the draw should be:

(If your bike is equipped with security enable Service Mode before running this test. Disconnect the Security Siren, if equipped.)

LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 14.8V and higher indicate the Voltage Regulator is bad.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

Great info, Vernal!!

Got ther regulator on eBay, brand new, and the plug was correct, but it had another wire, which turned out to be a ground. Worked just fine until the battery died. the acid was completely gone. Got a new battery and now it doesn't work. Stator is probably my issue, as I have been advised the same thing by others.

 

Thanks, Ripsaw!

 

Going to jump in here and learn something till Arjeje gets back with his fix..This has nothing to do with your problem Arjeje..just talking out loud

That is too cool Vernal as usual. Pondering AMP leak. Are we referring to the whole system or just the charging here in you very good thread. I have always checked by removing negative cable and put the DC amp meter in line. Guess I am little at loss as for an easy way of pulling what you refer as a main fuse or the whole system on a newer bike. A Softail's main is up under the splash cover in front of rear wheel and nut connected. Called the Maxe now I think.
However as written, it would show a key off drain from a shorted to ground stator leak.

I also mention always checking for AC on the battery side while running since out meter check is usually plenty good but not everything and AC can leak thru on a partially bad regulator on cars. However, not sure on a fully solid state Harley regulator. Never seen any on a Harley. Think Harley diagnostic system actually measure battery and such so it know system is OK with output since it can vary a few volts depending on need.

Might want to total your millamp total and add a line under CB Module 0.5 Such as A total millamp draw of X.X-X.X is OK.
and to note you need to wait about a minute for that alarm draw to trim back. That spark you see on the older bikes when you hook the negative wire is pretty alarming to old school.

 

Thanks for the pointers, I did some editing and added a few things.

The mili amp draw would be the whole system. I wondered about adding a sentence to say if you saw an abnormally high draw to start pulling fuses to try and isolate the circuit.

Check your in box I'm going to send you a PM

Bill

 

I see a whole lot of good information...some good **** here.

However, you should make your system current draw readings between the negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal. Pulling the fuse cuts the circuit in half and might possibly compromise the test since you do want to check the fuse and fuse block as an integral part of the circuit as well. However, that is quick and easy access for a fast confidence check.

There no one single reason a battery boils out...cheap underrated battery, shorted battery, the regulator system failed and delivered unfiltered chopped AC voltage to the electrical system and the battery couldn't handle it, no way to know for sure without hand's on. Electrical problems are a bitch to ferret out even when you are digging around in the circuits, let alone on an internet forum discussion.

What we can safely assume is that the system drew way too much current and got hot which caused the smoke you mentioned...I am assuming this was when the voltage regulator cooked off. Did the regulator short and cause the problem or did the system pull too much current and the regulator failed and then smoked...in other words, was the voltage regulator the cause or one of the effects...again, no way to say without hand's on. Hell, you could have starter brushes worn out and drawing too much current from the battery then the battery draws too much current to recharge and something finally gives up the magic smoke. Whatever failed either didn't pull more current than the main fuse is rated for or the battery has a path around the fuse somehow. Might want to look into that while you are tearing into it...There is probably some more overheating evidence somewhere. Take a good close look at your cables, especially and terminals and grounding areas. Pull fuses and look for melted heat damage in the fuse block. Take your time and check these things. This is a good time to clean the fuse block a little and apply a little silicone here and there.

Finally, speaking from many years of experience doing this kind of thing, with a serious multiple component failure like you experienced, the only real way to be certain that you will not have anymore problems with your charging system is to replace all the electrical components...stator, voltage regulator, and battery, and even the main fuse all at the same time. Make sure all of your connections are clean and secure. Anything less is just asking for Murphy to pay you a visit when you are 200 miles out in the boonies...

Good luck!