I have a 2013 slim. I want to change out all four signals to L.E.D.s I'm going to be using alloy art's for both front and rear. Do I need load equalizers since im changing all four? And what about run-brake-turn controller? Basicly, what do I need, if anything? and which ones should I get. There are a lot of different ones out there. Keep in mind I do not have a separate brake light. My rear signals are my brakes.

 

OK, so I tried and failed. I decided to only do the rear. The bike comes stock with rear run-turn-brake lights. There is no separate brake light. I am replacing those lights with LED signals. They only have power and ground wires. I decided to also add a separate LED brake light which is embedded into a license plate frame. I installed the Kuryakyn Universal Run-Turn-Brake Controller, part #4710.

It does not work as advertised. I am assuming it is defective. When the bike is on, only the turn signals are illuminated. But when I apply the brake, the turn signals turn off, and the new brake light turns on. Also, the "flashing brake" feature does not work, with or without the "flash" tab inserted.

I am not sure if I followed the installation instructions properly. Each signal has three wires in a four wire plug. Going to the signals are ground, running power and turn. The fourth unused wire is brakes. I connected both running wires from the plugs to the single running input wire to the controller. Each turn wire from the plugs went to their proper turn wires to the controller. I then added a wire to the unused brakes line in each plug and connectd them both to the single brakes line on the controller. From the LED turn signals I bought, I connected the red wires to each each output turn signal wire coming from the controller. The license plate I bought can be hooked up as either run-brake or run-turn. I opted for run-brake. There are four wires coming from it. Black (ground), blue (power/running) and two purple for the turn option. I connected the blue (power/running) wire to the brake output wire from the controller.

The controller has two ground wires and it said to connect connect them to a ground somewhere on the bike. Not the battery or the lights ground connections. So I did that. Then I connected the ground wires from the lights back to the existing ground wires in the plugs.

 

The only lights that need a load equalizer are flashers, as your flasher unit has to be fooled into thinking you still have conventional bulbs. LEDs take much lower power than normal bulbs and the flasher unit will not work properly with them. For all other lights LEDs should work fine.

As for your comments that you assume your new unit is defective, but you are not sure you followed the instructions.......

 

Call the folks at Custom Dynamics, They'll help you out.

 

Can't really help w/o seeing your wiring diagram & schematics...I'm a "visual" kinda guy, when it comes to maint./wiring. It's really best to follow instructions pretty closely and contact the manufacturer with ?'s. They're the experts and have probably run across most technical issues. Unless someone installed your same parts/kit on same bike...it's a crap shoot and you could end up getting poor advice and making things worse.

I'm a fan of Custom Dynamics because lighting and illumination is all they do (specialize). Their kits come with wiring harnesses, part recommendations and great call-in support to assist the install & after-care. Not that this will help your current project, but put a pin in it for future projects. Good luck & hope you get the wiring issue resolved.

 

Put a call into Kuryakyn. Was useless. Was told universal run-brake-turn controller is not truly universal. He had no idea how to wire it up and had no suggestions for anything I might be able to use.


This weekend I will play with it and attempt to change-up the wiring and figure it out.

 

A lil update..... I could never get the controller to work properly. I tried countless wiring configurations, sometimes it seemed like it was getting close to working, but their would always be one part that just didn't work.

So I pulled the controller out. I ran the new signals to the stock connectors, minus the run wires. Then I ran the run wires to the new led brake light. It all just works like this. The new led signals act as brake and turn, but don't stay on as run. The new "brake" light I added stays on as the "run" light. Not exactly the full "run-turn-brake" set up I wanted, but it works and I'm back on the road. And I didn't even need to use a turn signal stabilizer for the LEDs. It just works without it, no erratic or fast blinking dash lights.

I may or may not give custom dynamics a call and ask about their "run-turn-brake" controller. Maybe I will just leave it as it is. Haven't decided yet.