06 dyna charging problem
#1
08-13-2014, 09:51 PM
06 dyna charging problem
charge light and p0562 came on yesterday, battery voltage low/not charging. so i tested everything per the "charging system checks" here.
stator out put is 16 at idle-50v at 3000rpm or so on all three pins
.1ohm at each pin resistance an infinite resistance to ground (not shorted)
so i replaced the regulator
still not charging!
power and ground to the regulator is good, all connections are good (backproped each wire after the connection).
also one step further, i tested stator ac voltage loaded with the regulator plugged in and STILL get 16vac idle and 50vac at 3000rpm. i'm absolutely stumped, any help from you guys?
stator out put is 16 at idle-50v at 3000rpm or so on all three pins
.1ohm at each pin resistance an infinite resistance to ground (not shorted)
so i replaced the regulator
still not charging!
power and ground to the regulator is good, all connections are good (backproped each wire after the connection).
also one step further, i tested stator ac voltage loaded with the regulator plugged in and STILL get 16vac idle and 50vac at 3000rpm. i'm absolutely stumped, any help from you guys?
#2
08-13-2014, 09:52 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#3
08-17-2014, 07:51 PM
ok, well, maybe i can help someone else if they have this issue with their dyna, red wire to the VR was reading 12v when tested, however it had a real bad spot in the wire due to swingwarm rubbing on it that allowed no amps to the VR (or 12v when LOADED) pulled rear tire and fender liner and found this. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...pstbeto8ls.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psefb5i3lc.jpg
fixing it now and she'll be right as rain again!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psefb5i3lc.jpg
fixing it now and she'll be right as rain again!!
#4
09-02-2014, 07:39 AM
Don't mean to hijack this thread....
I'm suffering a similar fate. I upgraded to a 32 amp EOM system using the kit that included the rotor. I now have a new Cycle Electric Stator and a new Cycle Electric voltage regulator, new battery in May. I changed everyhting when I noted the OEM stator was toast after 35K and I could smell it in the primary. Added the regulator thinking it would cure my issue. It works exactly the same with $300 worth of Cycle Electric new components as it was before changing.
It charges at 13.6 without lights, 12.6 with lights on at 3K rpms.
Steadily it drops voltage as I'm riding. At an idle I'm at 12 volts with the lights on and as I ride it will drop to 11 or less at an idle.
Lights on, hit the brake and it's down to 10 volts at an idle.
Every time I switch on the turn signals and have the brake lights and running lights on my meter bounces with the signal flashing down to 8 / 9 volts and back to about 11.
I noted where the regulator and the power line bolt together on the steering neck that the power line is showing some melted insulation. The power line looks to be a size larger than the new Cycle Electric regulator lead. The regulator has a very long lead for universal mounting situations and I'm considering to see if it reaches to the point the other lead mounts to, which I believe is either a circuit breaker, or maybe directly into the solenoid to charge the battery. (This I'm not sure of yet???)
Sure ticks me off that the voltage steadily goes down while riding with headlights / riding lights on. With out lights it's a constant 13.6 at 3k RPMs.
Not sure what else I'll find may be the issue. Only two device run while shut off, the analog clock and the standby power to the radio. I trickle charge regularly and it charges perfect in no time and shuts off.
My only other thought is the battery I put in in May was for the '86 22 amp system. I'm checking today if the later models, 89 and up with 32 amp systems use a different battery(??). Maybe I have a battery specifically designed for 22amp systems and will not operate correctly under the conditions of a 32 amp recharge upgraded system???
I'm suffering a similar fate. I upgraded to a 32 amp EOM system using the kit that included the rotor. I now have a new Cycle Electric Stator and a new Cycle Electric voltage regulator, new battery in May. I changed everyhting when I noted the OEM stator was toast after 35K and I could smell it in the primary. Added the regulator thinking it would cure my issue. It works exactly the same with $300 worth of Cycle Electric new components as it was before changing.
It charges at 13.6 without lights, 12.6 with lights on at 3K rpms.
Steadily it drops voltage as I'm riding. At an idle I'm at 12 volts with the lights on and as I ride it will drop to 11 or less at an idle.
Lights on, hit the brake and it's down to 10 volts at an idle.
Every time I switch on the turn signals and have the brake lights and running lights on my meter bounces with the signal flashing down to 8 / 9 volts and back to about 11.
I noted where the regulator and the power line bolt together on the steering neck that the power line is showing some melted insulation. The power line looks to be a size larger than the new Cycle Electric regulator lead. The regulator has a very long lead for universal mounting situations and I'm considering to see if it reaches to the point the other lead mounts to, which I believe is either a circuit breaker, or maybe directly into the solenoid to charge the battery. (This I'm not sure of yet???)
Sure ticks me off that the voltage steadily goes down while riding with headlights / riding lights on. With out lights it's a constant 13.6 at 3k RPMs.
Not sure what else I'll find may be the issue. Only two device run while shut off, the analog clock and the standby power to the radio. I trickle charge regularly and it charges perfect in no time and shuts off.
My only other thought is the battery I put in in May was for the '86 22 amp system. I'm checking today if the later models, 89 and up with 32 amp systems use a different battery(??). Maybe I have a battery specifically designed for 22amp systems and will not operate correctly under the conditions of a 32 amp recharge upgraded system???
#5
09-02-2014, 08:05 AM
Don't mean to hijack this thread....
I'm suffering a similar fate. I upgraded to a 32 amp EOM system using the kit that included the rotor. I now have a new Cycle Electric Stator and a new Cycle Electric voltage regulator, new battery in May. I changed everyhting when I noted the OEM stator was toast after 35K and I could smell it in the primary. Added the regulator thinking it would cure my issue. It works exactly the same with $300 worth of Cycle Electric new components as it was before changing.
It charges at 13.6 without lights, 12.6 with lights on at 3K rpms.
Steadily it drops voltage as I'm riding. At an idle I'm at 12 volts with the lights on and as I ride it will drop to 11 or less at an idle.
Lights on, hit the brake and it's down to 10 volts at an idle.
Every time I switch on the turn signals and have the brake lights and running lights on my meter bounces with the signal flashing down to 8 / 9 volts and back to about 11.
I noted where the regulator and the power line bolt together on the steering neck that the power line is showing some melted insulation. The power line looks to be a size larger than the new Cycle Electric regulator lead. The regulator has a very long lead for universal mounting situations and I'm considering to see if it reaches to the point the other lead mounts to, which I believe is either a circuit breaker, or maybe directly into the solenoid to charge the battery. (This I'm not sure of yet???)
Sure ticks me off that the voltage steadily goes down while riding with headlights / riding lights on. With out lights it's a constant 13.6 at 3k RPMs.
Not sure what else I'll find may be the issue. Only two device run while shut off, the analog clock and the standby power to the radio. I trickle charge regularly and it charges perfect in no time and shuts off.
My only other thought is the battery I put in in May was for the '86 22 amp system. I'm checking today if the later models, 89 and up with 32 amp systems use a different battery(??). Maybe I have a battery specifically designed for 22amp systems and will not operate correctly under the conditions of a 32 amp recharge upgraded system???
I'm suffering a similar fate. I upgraded to a 32 amp EOM system using the kit that included the rotor. I now have a new Cycle Electric Stator and a new Cycle Electric voltage regulator, new battery in May. I changed everyhting when I noted the OEM stator was toast after 35K and I could smell it in the primary. Added the regulator thinking it would cure my issue. It works exactly the same with $300 worth of Cycle Electric new components as it was before changing.
It charges at 13.6 without lights, 12.6 with lights on at 3K rpms.
Steadily it drops voltage as I'm riding. At an idle I'm at 12 volts with the lights on and as I ride it will drop to 11 or less at an idle.
Lights on, hit the brake and it's down to 10 volts at an idle.
Every time I switch on the turn signals and have the brake lights and running lights on my meter bounces with the signal flashing down to 8 / 9 volts and back to about 11.
I noted where the regulator and the power line bolt together on the steering neck that the power line is showing some melted insulation. The power line looks to be a size larger than the new Cycle Electric regulator lead. The regulator has a very long lead for universal mounting situations and I'm considering to see if it reaches to the point the other lead mounts to, which I believe is either a circuit breaker, or maybe directly into the solenoid to charge the battery. (This I'm not sure of yet???)
Sure ticks me off that the voltage steadily goes down while riding with headlights / riding lights on. With out lights it's a constant 13.6 at 3k RPMs.
Not sure what else I'll find may be the issue. Only two device run while shut off, the analog clock and the standby power to the radio. I trickle charge regularly and it charges perfect in no time and shuts off.
My only other thought is the battery I put in in May was for the '86 22 amp system. I'm checking today if the later models, 89 and up with 32 amp systems use a different battery(??). Maybe I have a battery specifically designed for 22amp systems and will not operate correctly under the conditions of a 32 amp recharge upgraded system???
#6
09-02-2014, 09:48 AM
I just looked up the different batteries used for my ride at different years with different charging systems.
It would appear the 66010 comes in 3 updated product numbers but all indicate a 28 amp / hour with the last of them being a 97B. Didn't note any variance with either a 22 amp or 32 amp OEM charging system.
I'm going back to the main jumper wire not delivering the full amount of amps to the system due to a defect like what was pictured above. My next step will be to connect my new regulator, which came with a very long multi-position style lead, directly to the main connect under the side cover to the silver terminal (according to the service manual) and we'll see if bypassing the jumper wire from the steering head to the breaker improves the situation.
Also I had already replaced the accessory brake lights with LEDs. Those 6 additional bullet lights were put on by the original owner and the standard bulbs pulled a lot of current. So maybe I'll change out the running lights / turn signals with 4 new LED bulbs too. I've even considered changing the headlights to a lower amperage, more modern, brighter style.
One thing about an old bike like mine you never know what odd situation all those years might have caused.
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