I'm right at 30,000 miles on a bone stock 88" motor in my '06 RK which still runs great.At a little over 24,000 miles did some road tripping for a total of about 4000 miles in 3 weeks which for the most part were hiway 60-80 mph.Seems since theres a lot of top end "klacking",especially at cold start up and even after well warmed during upper/relaxed load RPM's.I realize the sewing machine sound,but this can of marbles has got me thinking about going into the cam chest as well as removing the rockers.I checked the tensioners at 20,000 and they looked ok,and I realize they are due to be looked at again.
I'm leaning heavily on the SE 25282-11 tensioner upgrade kit. http://www.shoputahharley.com/product-p/25282-11.htm
Looking under the fitment,it doesn't mention '06 touring.Only '07-up softail and touring models.This still what I want?
Included in my plan is pull the rocker boxes and inspect the shafts,all the while being able to reuse stock pushrods.Next I want to replace the lifters.Comp Cams,S&S,SE,or what others are good?Cam change might be in order of funds allow.Would really like some input and/or advice on my plan of attack.

 

The 25282-11 is not the kit you want unless you want to buy conversion cams and all the other miscellaneous hardware required for the full conversion like the roller chains, tensioners, etc. The 25284-11 "hybrid" kit may be a better fit if you want to retain OEM cams; no extra hardware required, all in the kit. The 25284-11 kit was designed to convert the early cam plates to the roller chain/hydro tensioner setup but allow the use of OEM cams.

Personally, you might consider retaining your OEM cam plate; it is more than adequate with the cams outer journals riding in bearings, not parent material of the cam plate or bronze bushings. Just replace the OEM tensioners with the CYCO tensioners, call it good and spend the saved $$ on a set or cams and new lifters.

You should check end clearance of the rocker shafts but unless it is way out, like .025" or more, shimming won't make much difference in the valve train noise. New lifters (S&S, not the premium but the regular) and a set of adjustable pushrods will help.

 

What's all the jabber about the spring loaded tensioners "robbing" 5 hp. from engine.Not that I'm **** about hp...just seems the hydraulic make a lot more sense and are way less maintainance plus the additional oil flow from the updated pump.BUT-the point you mention about the outer cams riding on a bronze bushing (in hybrid plate) vs. stock riding in a bearing is enlightening.I'm starting to "see-saw" but am absorbing what you mention.Cams (?)-I really can't/don't complain as most of my miles are hiway.But it would be nice to wake up the 88" a bit.

 

2.5-3.5 hp/torque difference between the early chain/gear drive.
We did back/back testing on those 12-13 years ago.
Not caused by friction as some may suspect but the increase is do to spot-on cam timing accuracy.
BTW, that bike is still in service and has been coast/coast MANY times as it belongs to a member of a LARGE motorcycle club.
Scott

 

Yeah that figure isn't much of a concern to me Hillside.I'm more concerned with finding out WHY I've got a lot more klacking now than at (and up to) 24,000 miles.You guys have got me thinking I just need to pull the rockers/check shafts,change lifters,tensioner shoes,,change inner bearings and call it a day.I might still be interested in a cam change-using stock pushrods.

 

Yep, if a noise comes on that was not there, best to put an eyeball on it before it harms other components.
Scott

 

These worth getting?Seems like a good price for a reputable co.

 

Not a pro like Scott but IMHO the parasitic HP loss to gear drives vs non-gear drive cams is about the same but the more accurate cam timing of gear driven cams does increase HP but only at peak; don't see it making much difference in low to mid rpm ranges but that's JMHO.

I would add changing the outer cam bearings as well and possibly upgrading the oil pump with the Drag Specialties higher capacity pump.



I suspect that the lifters are contributing to the increase in valve train noise more so than the rocker arms. Lot's of folks have shimmed rocker end clearance, myself included, down to .004" with no effect on reducing valve train noise. However, a good set of lifters and properly adjusted pushrods to preload the lifters makes a noticeable difference. So, I would also not over look adjustable pushrods, cams or not, to assist in reducing valve train noise; your call. While you are at it, consider the Andrews 21/26 cams or the S&S 509; a nice torque cam will wake up that 88" motor.

 

Isn't there a spring upgrade (IIRC Baisely or something like that) available djl ?I too have a feeling new lifters will quiet it down some.I read somewhere that '95-2000 (?)small block chevy lifters are the same.

 

We used to manufacture a .200" shim, but Zippers offers those for less than we were making them for.
We buy them, from them, by the bag full here.
Scott