Excessive heat - is there a solution?
#21
Thanks djl. Hot motor mechanical sounds seem to be coming from the top end, primarily from the cylinders when listening from the primary side, not the lifters or lower valve train. The Johnson Hylifts haven't made a click or knock yet.
Not advancing the timing "until it pings", but using the plugs' ground strap readings to set the timing. I will try taking the advance slope down to "3" and see what happens. Will invest in a thermo gun and collect some data. Wish we were closer so you could check it out first hand.
Not advancing the timing "until it pings", but using the plugs' ground strap readings to set the timing. I will try taking the advance slope down to "3" and see what happens. Will invest in a thermo gun and collect some data. Wish we were closer so you could check it out first hand.
If the lifters are bleeding down, the noise you hear will not be from the lifters or lower valve train. The valve train lash will exhibit up top as clearance between the pushrod and rocker arm.
Not saying that the lifters are bleeding down but if you are hearing valve train noise lifter bleed down could be the source; it's not the heat. If you can cool the motor down, it won't be a dramatic reduction in operating temps, maybe 10*-15*, more if you resort to Jason's fans. The valve train noise will likely still be present even with a cooler running motor.
#22
#23
heat
20w/60 oil and header wrap… (FYI, header wrap is used to keep the heat INSIDE the pipe flowing out. It does not REFLECT heat (like shiny chrome) is CONTAINS heat allowing for a quicker combustion exit.
or, if you have the bucks….
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/
or, if you have the bucks….
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/
#24
I'd pull the t-stat too. It does not change the operating temp of the oil. It just takes longer to reach operating temp. Any reason you are using that oil? Have you used that oil before? Some oils are loud operating. Might go back to that Valvoline oil. What type of valve springs were used? Was the clearance checked to the lower rocker box when the motor was turned over? Mine hit and had to be ground, although now SE makes pre-clearanced ones now. Have you checked your pushrods for rub marks?
Springs are AV&V .650" lift beehives. Upper and lower rocker covers were heavily clearanced at potential spring rub points and also for additional rocker clearance.
Haven't checked pushrods for rubbing, but they are GMR (Smith Bros.) 3/8 dia .120" wall thickness. Being smaller dia and thicker wall, shouldn't rub or flex.
I took djl's advice and reduced the DTT's dial setting for advance slope to "3". Motor seemed to like that. Got home, let it idle for about 5 minutes and used a mechanic's stethoscope to go over the entire motor. Rocker covers, cylinders, pushrod covers, lifter covers, cam cover. Nothing was making abnormal noise.
Beginning to think this noise may be coming from the primary, although it seems higher up when sitting on the bike. Over the winter, I replaced the compensating sprocket and put in a Diamond primary chain. Checked alignment . Also put in a new spring set in the Hayden M-6. Using Redline V-twin 70w80 synthetic primary oil. Don't understand why the primary would get noisier when the motor is hot?
Last edited by dynawg1; 03-27-2015 at 08:19 AM.
#25
Don't putt or stay stopped in traffic much, hippie. I think that you hit it right on the head re: heavily modding a HD motor makes them run hotter than the air/oil cooling design is able to deal with. After all, heat is a necessary ingredient for making power. Backing off on the timing seems to be helping some.
#26
20w/60 oil and header wrap… (FYI, header wrap is used to keep the heat INSIDE the pipe flowing out. It does not REFLECT heat (like shiny chrome) is CONTAINS heat allowing for a quicker combustion exit.
or, if you have the bucks….
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/
or, if you have the bucks….
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/
Attached pic is of my exhaust ports, ceramic coated by AMS.
#27
Don't putt or stay stopped in traffic much, hippie. I think that you hit it right on the head re: heavily modding a HD motor makes them run hotter than the air/oil cooling design is able to deal with. After all, heat is a necessary ingredient for making power. Backing off on the timing seems to be helping some.
#28
#29
I am having the same problem on 2012 ultra. Have put in cams, thunder max tuner, dual exhaust, and jagg fan assisted cooler. Just got bike from bike week were my oil temp went to 300. Was looking at love jugs or wards fans, but don`t know if they will help. Hate to spend the money if not. Riding to key west in July so hope to have this problem solved by then. If you figure what is best let me know as I am open for suggestions.
#30
Fans will definitely help. Several videos on YouTube showing a laser thermometer gun pointed at the heads reading a ~100 degree drop in head temp once fans were turned on for five minutes. Jim's has a new fan out that looks pretty cool and includes a horn. Pricey though.
FWIW - my "problem" has abated since I turned back the timing advance slope a notch. Did not loose power, so I just had it advanced too much. May still need the fans as the temps rise into the 90's soon here in south Texas.
FWIW - my "problem" has abated since I turned back the timing advance slope a notch. Did not loose power, so I just had it advanced too much. May still need the fans as the temps rise into the 90's soon here in south Texas.