I have a basic Stage One setup on my 2013 FXDWG.
Arlen Ness Big Sucker 2
Rush Short Series duals (with their stock baffles in)
Power Vision AND AT120/Wide Band sensors addition

I've gone through so many tunes that I'm somewhere in the 70's for tuning logs and in the 40's or so for Auto Tune runs.

I have mostly used the Fuel Moto maps that Jamie sent me, but, have tried a few from forum users, the site that FM also refers, and did some enrichment myself. I've done "hybrid" maps of all of the above maps and even tested some hybrids/mods of my stock map (backed up the original copy). There are occasions, often, where I get up to 320F on the Engine Temp sensors.

I don't normally break 300F in the morning rides to work (a mix of freeway and backroads with little traffic). In the afternoons it's a sure bet I'm breaking 300F, unless I hit every light and no lane splitting on the freeway.

Average temps for SoCal this time of year is 50-60's in the mornings and 80-low 90's in the afternoons. The last couple of weeks it's been in the low-mid 80's.

I've checked my exhaust seals, changed all of my oils.
-BelRay Primary fluid
-Bel Ray 85w-140 (trans)
-Amsoil 20w-50 (motor)

I put in new HD OEM plugs. Replaced the gaskets and really made sure the exhaust got a proper seal. I've even cleaned my air cleaner.

I am pretty sure I noticed this when I returned from deployment and maybe a little before leaving. I thought it was my exhaust, possibly, but I had the same problem with the stock pipes. With or without the baffles.

Now, the only thing I can think of is possibly the air cleaner.

Does anyone think the Arlen Ness BS2's AC can be pulling air from the jugs?

Most AC's I see cone outward (if at all) from the bike, to the right.
The AN BS2 is wider on the right and narrows towards the jugs.
Is there any way this can be pulling off the engine's heat and recirculating it, and increasing engine temps? EITMS doesn't help while idling at a light. The temps get down to the 250-260's if I'm blasting down the highway and that's pretty much the only way to lower them. Also, is there any way my AC can be mis-mounted, clogged, or whatever to cause the temps I'm seeing? I've had that intake on for almost two years though. I half-assed cleaned it when I returned and then REALLY cleaned it a couple of weeks ago. Still not much improvement.

Lastly, the only way I've been able to keep her in or around the 285-ish range is if I run about a 12.5 or less AFR. That's super SUPER rich and it still will hit over 300 if I have over 6 or 7 minutes of low speed or stops, total.

Any help would be great!
-Doc

 

your air cleaner is not the issue, running the same one on my bike. you have to remember those canned tunes are just a starting point. another factor where is the timing at, retarded timing will make any engine run hot! those canned tunes have no added timing to them due to liabilities reasons. with the problems you are having get it in a shop that has a dyno and get it tuned correctly,it will save you alot of headaches. If you can't swing it now call ken peters at dyno jet. He will help you get a tune and will work with you and make adjustments to you PV to correct alot of issues. He does all the harley tuning and software programming data.

 

I've been doing a few logs and AT runs with a map that has some timing mods. It has helped about 10* or so. I will give it another couple of runs to see if the AT brings it down. If not, I will see if Ken can help me out. Right now, I can't swing the Dyno since I'm being tight with the funds until Sturgis is over. I'd love to, but, I also plan on new pipes in the near future as well.

 

I've been changing up which sensors to monitor on my PV2, hoping I can get better insight. Well, this morning I added my Air Temp sensor to my gauges. When I fired her up it was reading 95*F. Again, I live in SoCal, and this morning it was 62*F when I out. It's 65*F now. The last reading before I cut the motor at work showed the IAT at 129.2.

Now if I understand this right, the VE and target are measured with TPS, RPM, and the air density, in which the IAT plays a big role. If the outside temps are hot then the air is thinner and the compensates with the VE to get to the target AFR. If the bike does this the it sort of runs in a leaner state. If it's colder then the air is more dense and it runs richer to achieve the target AFR.

If my IAT is reading the temps are hot (thinner air) then it is leaning out the VE. Leaner = hotter.

Can this be my problem?

When I returned from deployment I was having cranking issues. Someone tipped me about the IAT and to clean it. I used some electrical contact spray to hit the sensor hole in the intake. A little gunk came out and it did help with the startup.

Would taking out the IAT and really cleaning it help or should I replace it?

Any help is always appreciated!
-Doc

 

the IAT should match the ambient temp outside on a cold engine. as the engine warms up it will pull some warmer air off the engine and some will radiant off the intake changing the temp reading. if it doesn't match the outside temp on a cold motor replace the sensor.

 

i would be careful with autotune basic as i find it severely alters ve numbers at idle, probably by about 10 points too far to the lean side

i find just about every map/tune that get autotuned looses a lot in that area

how do your plugs look?

 

So, yeah, I was just going over my logs. Apparently, it's been reading high intake temps for a while. At least a couple of months (for the logs I have handy). And I mean like 160*F+. I took it out and tried cleaning it last night. I don't think it helped much, but, I'm heading to one of the HD's about a half hour from me. They have a new one. I'll probably chill there for a minute to let her cool down and install it right there. I'll do some more logging during my rides today. Any thoughts on relocating it? I'm actually really thinking of doing that. I'll have to re-route the wiring to the right side vs. the left, but, should be possible. I just need to find some sort of cap/sock to keep it from getting wet. I also don't know what to block the hole with...

My plugs are good... as of about a month ago, when I changed them.
Also, I'm using AT Pro with the wideband sensors.

 

Whole lot less the the day to day temperature change in the outside world. Just running down the interstate into the wind and the other way will make way more difference.
The biggest restriction is the throttle body unless you are maybe WOT.

 

I'm not tracking what you mean. I don't go WOT that often though.
My rides do take a lot of freeway time also.

 

What I was trying to imply that at normal operation (what I do all the time since I never WOT my car or bike) and what appears that you also do most of the time. (you do realize we are the only two people on here that do that.?)

Even on the interstate, I doubt you are 1/3 open.

So what I am saying is the Arlen Ness Big Sucker 2 is not passing any more air than a stock air filter. So there is no difference in air that could possibly upset the fuel ratio enough to lean it to cause any temperature rise.

Atmospheric pressure is what pushes the air in to fill the vacuum left when the piston goes to the bottom. Engine does not suck it in. It does push the exhaust out however.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natura...pirated_engine